In the wiring diagram below for my PM 1440TL I have all the native safety features of the lathe still in full operation. The safety stop is still fully functional. The emergency brake pedal is still an emergency stop (with an added switch for a free run command) and in addition to the lathe safety, I have a VFD unattended start in case the forward or reverse lever on the lathe is left on when the VFD is turned on. All this is possible without the $400 inverter you have shown above. I am not a certified electrician, but here is the wiring diagram for my VFD wiring on my 1440TL with the Hitachi WJ200.
 

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In the wiring diagram below for my PM 1440TL I have all the native safety features of the lathe still in full operation. The safety stop is still fully functional. The emergency brake pedal is still an emergency stop (with an added switch for a free run command) and in addition to the lathe safety, I have a VFD unattended start in case the forward or reverse lever on the lathe is left on when the VFD is turned on. All this is possible without the $400 inverter you have shown above. I am not a certified electrician, but here is the wiring diagram for my VFD wiring on my 1440TL with the Hitachi WJ200.
Thanks for the drawing.

Nor, am I an electrician. More the reason why I want to understand the original circuit diagram and the functions. I also want to understand why professional power engineers use use G9SX-GS226-T15-RC.

If the functionality can be provided without its use (or, if it is not necessary in a home power installation), then all the merrier. Who wants to spend an extra $400 ?

It's always helpful to see how others have solved the problem, so I appreciate your response.

I'll post when I fully understand the G9SX-GS226-T15-RC.

Thanks again.
 
Read up on source logic vs sink logic as you read up on programming your WJ200. For external controls as shown I my diagram my WJ200 is set up for source logic. That allows the control wires to tell the VFD what you want it to do. Great to understand the full details of your lathe and how the interlock works etc. but keep in mind you won’t be changing any of that functionality with your VFD install in a basic install. And if you do a full install then you would be pulling all native wiring out. If you read through what Mark has posted on the VFD Install using the lathe contactors you will have all you need. If you have a specific question, ask and we will try to get you a specific answer.
 
If you required safety instrument system (SIL1, SIL2, SIL3) you might use the relay they suggest. Probably is UL listed, has documented MTBF numbers all requirements for insurance purposes. Way off in the weeds for your lathe. Still won't keep you from twisting your arm off, if you wear a long sleeve shirt. Your lathe, if it's anything like any of the other PM machines, will have a latching relay. If your using the lathe and power fails, when power is restored, the lathe won't restart until you move the handle from forward/reverse back to off and then back to forward/reverse. Same thing by pressing the E-stop, or the foot brake. The latching relay provides that functionality and is your safety interlock and definitely worth keeping. I would think your time would be much better spent studying Marks schematics on the PM-1440 as it has the foot brake. Since your machine is new, keeping existing contactors and removing the high voltage side (as he's mentioned a couple times to you), allows passing the P24 control voltage signal thru the motor contactor and into the drive as a forward or reverse input.
 
Read up on source logic vs sink logic as you read up on programming your WJ200. For external controls as shown I my diagram my WJ200 is set up for source logic. That allows the control wires to tell the VFD what you want it to do. Great to understand the full details of your lathe and how the interlock works etc. but keep in mind you won’t be changing any of that functionality with your VFD install in a basic install. And if you do a full install then you would be pulling all native wiring out. If you read through what Mark has posted on the VFD Install using the lathe contactors you will have all you need. If you have a specific question, ask and we will try to get you a specific answer.
Thanks again.

I try to limit newbie questions until I have tried reading and understanding the documents and other people's works.

But, there will be plenty questions coming, I'm sure.
 
If you required safety instrument system (SIL1, SIL2, SIL3) you might use the relay they suggest. Probably is UL listed, has documented MTBF numbers all requirements for insurance purposes. Way off in the weeds for your lathe. Still won't keep you from twisting your arm off, if you wear a long sleeve shirt. Your lathe, if it's anything like any of the other PM machines, will have a latching relay. If your using the lathe and power fails, when power is restored, the lathe won't restart until you move the handle from forward/reverse back to off and then back to forward/reverse. Same thing by pressing the E-stop, or the foot brake. The latching relay provides that functionality and is your safety interlock and definitely worth keeping. I would think your time would be much better spent studying Marks schematics on the PM-1440 as it has the foot brake. Since your machine is new, keeping existing contactors and removing the high voltage side (as he's mentioned a couple times to you), allows passing the P24 control voltage signal thru the motor contactor and into the drive as a forward or reverse input.
Thanks for the suggestions. Been doing that, studying what others have done and relating that to what came with the machine, and what industrial engineers require for safety. I just want to know.

What I implement will most likely have been done by others, already.
 
Performance level d, PLd, about one in a million no action when the emergency switch is pressed:

To achieve better than one in a million failure of the emergency shut off function, known as performance level d, PLd, the ISO standard requires two separate circuits from the emergency switch to the WJ200 VFD: those two circuits are GS1 and GS2. Furthermore, the circuits must be tested at least once a year. If there is inconsistency in the GS1 and GS2 signals, then EDM is activated by the VFD and manual intervention is required.

The performance level is no better than that of any intervening circuit, relay contacts, or electronics and any intervening item degrades the performance level.

The activation of the reset switch informs the VDF that a person has seen that there is a problem with the redundant emergency circuit. The person ought to look for crushed or cut wires, or fused contact points (if relays are used), or failed intermediate electronics.

The emergency switch found in my TL-1640 PM-1640TL is PPFN1R4N with one PL004001, and it can take additional contact modules, both NO or NC. Adding contact modules to this switch body is the way I will be going. I don't want any additional components whatsoever between the emergency switch and the Hitachi VFD. If I don't mind using a vacant switch contact in K4, then adding contact modules to the emergency switch not necessary, but that would introduce a potential failure point and would jeopardize the PLd of better than 1 in a million fault or non activation after the emergency switch is pressed.

The addition of two contacts to the switch will enable me to implement GS1 and GS2 functionality as described in the "WJ200 Series Inverter Instruction Manual", Section 4, page5. This functionality is also described in "WJ200 Series Inverter Quick Reference Guide", page 89. 90, and 91. The G9SX-GS226-T15-RC is a box that interfaces the emergency switch and provides for resetting the WJ200.

I don't see why it is required. It can only degrade the performance level. Perhaps in a multi WJ200 installation it serves an additional purpose.

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A portion of the diagram from "WJ200 Series Inverter Instruction Manual", Section 4, page 5, helps put the signals in context. The GS1 and GS2 are on pins 3 and 4 on the left side. EDM is on pin 11 and its common is CM2 on the right side o that diagram.


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[SK]
 
Its been a week since I leveled the lathe. I checked today and the bubble has moved about three ticks. Also, oil has collected toward the front in the U shaped groove at the bottom of the carriage, indicating the level is telling the same story. The weather has become noticeably cooler in the past week. Maybe that has caused the change. I think it has to do with initial settling in of the leveling pads. I'll give it a few more days before re leveling it.

I can check for head nod and alignment after I have power to the lathe.

I like Joe Pieczynski's explanation about those issues. His highly informative model of the 6-point contact and the distortions caused by them is very instructive. His video is at

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My Pm-1640Tl (TL-1640) came with an emergency switch whose part number is PPFN1R4N (the mushroom button) with one PL004001 (a NC switch). It's a modular set up and the emergency switch can take as many as five independent normally open, NO, or normally closed, NC, switches or poles. The mushroom switch locks when pushed; a piston pushes on each of the actuators of the installed switches; twisting the mushroom releases it.

In order to follow what Hitachi indicates, that is direct connection from the emergency switch to the VFD, I ordered the components to add additional poles or switches to the mushroom. The following pictures show the components and what it looks like when assembled. There is room in the 1640 itself (behind the midsection of the front panel) to add additional poles.

Much of the parts is plastic. I could see a failure in which not the contacts themselves, but the plastic parts fall apart. Hitachi's circuit is doubly redundant, so two switches have to fail before there is a critical problem. I guess that's the purpose of the redundant and direct communications from the emergency switch to the VFD.

This not the switch from the machine, but what's in the machine looks like it.

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This picture shows the components that can be assembled.
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And, here is a picture of the switch with five independent poles assembled as one 'emergency switch'.
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I rough cut lumber for a platform for the PM-1640TL and did a check to see if the parts come together. My jointer is away for warranty repair, so finishing this will have to wait until it comes back. The goal is to make the platform water and oil tight in anticipation of splashes and drips.

Also, now my eyes are at the level of a six-foot guy. I can see what they would see.

There are two 1x4 boards running left to right, under the long edges. They touch the painted garage floor and will remain unsealed. Next level is composed of 2x4's running perpendicular to the ways. They are spaced so that a pallet jack can be used to move it. The platform is composed of a 2x4 and four 2x6's making it about 25 inches when finished. When they are put through a jointer and a thickness planer, then glued, and sealed with spar varnish, then the platform will be water and oil tight. If I drop a tool it will hit wood, not cement. The platform is firm, but I bet it will be gentler to my feet and knees than concrete.

Nothing goes on the platform. House rules. There will be nothing to trip over.

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