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Lets you create soft jaws for repeated or difficult to grip parts. Just like soft jaws on a mill vise.
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My First Lathe - HF 9" x 20"
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2016
- Messages
- 3,276
Those handheld bandsaws seem like they could be really handy for somethings even if you had a horizontal. I've been tempted to pick one up a few times. Since you now have a better way to cut metal, I'd suggest getting picky looking for a swivel head bandsaw over the usual horizontal.
Something like this Grizzly
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-5-x-6-1-2-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw-w-swivel-head/g9742
I got to use an Ellis bandsaw in my welding classes and it was of this design (also about $3000 vs Grizzly's $900). It might not seem like a big thing turning the saw head instead of the work, but if you are cutting a 10 foot long piece, it really is. To cut a 45 on a long piece the end of the work will move several feet requiring a fairly large work area. I have one of the standard 4x6" bandsaws so when I get a long piece I end up having to turn the whole saw because I don't have the width to swing the material.
Chuck key sounds like a future project.
I got one of these for Christmas last year to use on the workbench. Sadly I haven't got much time with it, but seems to be well made and I think I'm going to really like it once I get a chance to use it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084P1GQW...olid=2D5GDRLKV14ZJ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Harbor Freight has power strips that match their US General tool chests... You are going to need a place to keep all your new tools after all.
I get that... maybe not a do-it-all chuck (or one-size fits all)... But, again, in my case being a newbie, a combination four-jaw chuck, I think it would have been a great option since I did not have a 4-jaw chuck...
This is all hypothetical... I already bought a 4-jaw independent chuck...
Where did you get the chuck, ebay? Did you get a plain back with an M39-4.0 backplate?
I don't have a 4 jaw on mine, planned on sharing the tooling with the Logan, but then found it had a metric spindle. I don't want to spend a lot on this lathe but under $100 for a 5" 4 jaw isn't bad, the 4 jaw on my Sherline was almost $150 for a 3" chuck.
Boring isn't that hard, really not much different than turning except its on the inside. Mikey started a good thread on boring.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-boring-primer.75721/
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,175
Those handheld bandsaws seem like they could be really handy for somethings even if you had a horizontal. I've been tempted to pick one up a few times. Since you now have a better way to cut metal, I'd suggest getting picky looking for a swivel head bandsaw over the usual horizontal.
Something like this Grizzly
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-5-x-6-1-2-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw-w-swivel-head/g9742
I got to use an Ellis bandsaw in my welding classes and it was of this design (also about $3000 vs Grizzly's $900). It might not seem like a big thing turning the saw head instead of the work, but if you are cutting a 10 foot long piece, it really is. To cut a 45 on a long piece the end of the work will move several feet requiring a fairly large work area. I have one of the standard 4x6" bandsaws so when I get a long piece I end up having to turn the whole saw because I don't have the width to swing the material.
Chuck key sounds like a future project.
I got one of these for Christmas last year to use on the workbench. Sadly I haven't got much time with it, but seems to be well made and I think I'm going to really like it once I get a chance to use it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084P1GQW...olid=2D5GDRLKV14ZJ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Harbor Freight has power strips that match their US General tool chests... You are going to need a place to keep all your new tools after all.
Where did you get the chuck, ebay? Did you get a plain back with an M39-4.0 backplate?
I don't have a 4 jaw on mine, planned on sharing the tooling with the Logan, but then found it had a metric spindle. I don't want to spend a lot on this lathe but under $100 for a 5" 4 jaw isn't bad, the 4 jaw on my Sherline was almost $150 for a 3" chuck.
Boring isn't that hard, really not much different than turning except its on the inside. Mikey started a good thread on boring.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-boring-primer.75721/
I was looking at the Grizzly G0926 only if I can get it on their sale price (around 389.00 + shipping). If not, I will just grab one from Harbor Freight. I do not want to go crazy on the bandsaw. For me, 900.00 is crazy money for one, in my case of course... I do not mind moving the bandsaw for cutting long pieces, lol.
Chuck key will be a future project. Yes!
On the lamp, I got this one: LED Magnifying Lamp 2,200 lumens - arrives today. We have one that my wife uses... and she saw me eyeing hers and quickly told me to stay away from it and to get my own
I got this power strip... 15 amp and has usb ports as well... should be good for now.
The chuck I got from eBay, correct. It arrives today, will see what I get... there were no photos of the back... Here is the link: Lathe Chuck K72-125 5" 4 Jaw Independent Grinding Machine Cast Iron Lathe Chuck
Backplate is for a 6" chuck, so there will be a lot of chip build up in the lathe as I get that sucker to size... from eBay as well... HHIP 3900-3339 M39X4 Backplate for 6" 3 or 4 Jaw Chucks
On boring, thank you for the link. Let me take a look.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2016
- Messages
- 3,276
Buying new it is hard to beat the HF 4x6. I was thinking more along the lines of keeping an eye out for that style on the used market, I'd have a hard time spending $900 for a saw too, particularly since they were $600 just a few years ago.
Seems to go in spurts but you can find some good deals on used bandsaws. The 4x6" class saws seem to pop up fairly frequently, Sears sold a similar saw for years under the Craftsman brand.
Seems to go in spurts but you can find some good deals on used bandsaws. The 4x6" class saws seem to pop up fairly frequently, Sears sold a similar saw for years under the Craftsman brand.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
The switch pictured looks very similar to one I got from Grizzly way back. Mine without enclosures though. If it is magnetic, which I'm pretty sure it is, it alone will serve as a good E-stop switch. The ON/OFF function on such a switch has contacts that operate a small internal relay. That relay requires manual restarting, so you don't get blindsided when the power comes back up.
My suggestion would be a bracket (above and left) beside the change gear lever and the switch mounted outside the normal operating area of the machine so it is easy to reach. I have one mounted on an older table saw with very good results. Since I ordered several of them, it looks like a good addition to my small lathe as well. Thank you for the idea.
My personal position on control would be to keep the machine wiring intact, with the added switch as a "safety" additional to the factory control. Not just as an E-stop but to keep wandering hands from powering up the machine. The one issue to consider is the line current drawn by the machine. Your machine has a 3/4 HP motor. Such a motor has quite a starting draw. And for transferring to a larger machine later will require careful examination of the name plate current.
I don't have any children, and at my age would be more concerned about great grand children any way, and won't take casual visitors into the shop, a separate building. As a result, I don't think about such doubled up switches as often as I should. Usually only when directly confronted with the makings for such a system does the matter come up. Again, thanx.
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My suggestion would be a bracket (above and left) beside the change gear lever and the switch mounted outside the normal operating area of the machine so it is easy to reach. I have one mounted on an older table saw with very good results. Since I ordered several of them, it looks like a good addition to my small lathe as well. Thank you for the idea.
My personal position on control would be to keep the machine wiring intact, with the added switch as a "safety" additional to the factory control. Not just as an E-stop but to keep wandering hands from powering up the machine. The one issue to consider is the line current drawn by the machine. Your machine has a 3/4 HP motor. Such a motor has quite a starting draw. And for transferring to a larger machine later will require careful examination of the name plate current.
I don't have any children, and at my age would be more concerned about great grand children any way, and won't take casual visitors into the shop, a separate building. As a result, I don't think about such doubled up switches as often as I should. Usually only when directly confronted with the makings for such a system does the matter come up. Again, thanx.
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- Aug 6, 2015
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- 4,175
Ahh, got it. Yes... I check the local Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace almost every day looking for one at a decent price.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,175
Now you need a poor man's DRO system
Please elaborate. That looks like a great idea!
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,175
The machine draws 15 amps. The switch is rated at 16 amps. Thank you for calling out that It is a magnetic switch as I had not noticed that. So I should be good with just this one. No need to add an additional e-stop, cool!