My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)

That holley pump is perfect. Has enough flow to cover me no matter what I do. I was wondering if someone made something like that. I like how the made it with the universal hold down tabs that swing out. Thanks!

Yes the easier the better. Kiss principle all the way.

I have a set of stainless headers I had to have modified to clear the oil filter on the old engine. It has a holley pan on it. I think I'm going to have to put the pan on the new engine. I think the pan on the new engine it is too deep. Will hang below the cross member. Right now I'm considering the old engine as a parts source.

I did some looking at steam vent kits and went out to look at the old engine and all the connections for the steam vents are missing. He was running it with very low coolant and really this is my first LS I've dug into didn't see that until now. I do have a trailblazer SS with 6.0 LS2 but all I've done to it was E-fans and a tune. I know the PO had the old engine apart and just don't trust it until I pull it down and see what he did.

I'm going with a LT1 T56 I modded to LS1 style. Have to either have my driveshaft modded, or have a new one made. I've found new ones on ebay for $300.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-MAD...278148?hash=item264076b304:g:-YAAAOSwJJxdkk7L

I messaged him just now to see if he can put a 1330 u joint on the back of the shaft to match the ford rear. Save me from running a conversion u joint.
 
Having a spare engine to rob parts from is very handy, About the fuel pump hanger i've modified an old factory sending unit to hold an electric fuel pump, i'll look to see if i found it to take a picture. About the driveshaft, i'll advise having the engine permanently mounted measure it on the ground at ride height and have it made locally, it's a big difference when you can talk to the guy who is making it and see the quality of parts used. Online stores tend to use cheap materials and not do returns just to make profit. And everybody hates breakdowns, i don't know is it my driving but i can find the weak link in any driveline.
 
I promised pictures and here they are, you can see, how i've welded a piece of steel to the return pipe, and run thicker steel pipe for the outlet, i've also reuse an old fuel pump sending unit connector for power to make it a drop in unit. This is one of my first prototype, i've made this at 16-17 years of age with an arc welder and old parts.
IMG_20201128_121739.jpgIMG_20201128_121756.jpgIMG_20201128_121813.jpg
 
That's very inventive, pretty much what I was thinking of doing. I've been doing a lot of looking and reading lately . No choice, I've had a bit of a setback from my stroke, trying to do too much it seems. I do spend some time out in the shop when my wife goes to work and I'm away from her watchful eyes. She hasn't thought of checking the outside cameras to see where I'm at during the day thankfully. Or maybe she knows and is just letting me do it thinking I'm getting away with it.

Anyway here is a lot of talk about baffling in the tank to prevent fuel starvation. Several people have lost fuel pumps because this and they aren't cheap by any means. I've been thinking of doing the same thing with my tank as you did, and even found a fuel pump that has a small baffle attached to it. That cost about $250, and a new tank is about $150. For $460 I can get a tank, fuel pressure regulator, lines, new sending unit for $460. I can't piece everything together for that price.


So with my limited ability now it's going to be easier and less frustrating to just buy the tank setup. I've also got a 10% off coupon so that makes it $414 and free shipping. I'm waiting for cyber Monday to see if they offer an additional discount.

I have been doing some work in the shop on the engine. When I can sneak out there have been cleaning the engine for paint. Funny I've been trying to decide what color to paint the engine. I'd love to have the all aluminum engine on display so to speak, but cleaning a used engine and making it look like new is pretty much impossible. Too big to get in my hot parts washer and bead blaster without tearing it completely down. So I think I've just settled on Chevy orange with some black accessories. I've never had a nicely detailed engine compartment before. Just no time do do it, but this time I want to get second looks when I pop the hood.

Before
20201129_090742.jpg


After

20201128_142222.jpg
 
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I've had good luck with high temp silver paint, tin stuff that's used on exhaust, then using clear coat over it, here is a gearbox i modified painted and the car that it goes in. I'm using gasoline in a spray bottle and a brush for cleaning.
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That looks pretty nice. I tried VHT's "As Cast" paint and it looked cheap. Definitely tell it was paint and not the raw cast aluminum.

So going ahead with chevy orange. Hopefully tomorrow I can start painting some parts. I ended up pulling the intake, and valley pan. Already had the water pump and timing cover off along with the oil pan. I'm not painting the pan, it's a new holley unit and it looks good as is.

Hopefully by the end of the week all my gaskets will come in and I can get the engine back together. I like the o-ring style gasket the LS has. Really wasn't any leaks, just grime from 12 years. I read online that over cleaner works for cleaning engines and stuff. It sure cuts the grease. I had some from my wife she got at dollar tree and it was ok, but ran out and got some easy-off. Major difference. Works much better than the cheap stuff.

Top of the engine was really clean inside. Someone really took care of it. The oil had just been changed when I got the engine.

rocker box.jpg
 
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Be careful with the Easy-Off on aluminum. It is caustic. On ferrus alloys, no problem.

From the manufacturer:
"Can EASY-OFF® Heavy Duty Oven Cleaner be used on any aluminum? We do not recommend using this product on aluminum, as it may pit and discolor it. However, it does not penetrate into the metal or remain on the surface after the recommended rinsing instructions have been followed."

See this.
 
I use easy off on cylinder heads. It works great. You shouldn't spray it all over a valuable part and walk away from it, though. I'm sure that after some hours it could damage something. I'm talking about a few minutes and some scrubbing. You'd really have to blow it in order to ruin a part.
 
I've not seen any problem from the cleaner yet. I'll check again today. I appreciate the heads up on it.

Hopefully today I can get some paint on the block. I've got the timing cover, balancer, valve covers, and valley pan painted.

Started working on putting in the trac lock last night in my pumpkin. It's not easy. Should have been just a drop in but I can't turn the gears. I'm guessing it's so far out side to side that's the problem. But I got tired and had to quit.
 
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