Correct. The jacking screw would only be extended to lift the small casters off the ground long enough to slide the legs into place. Then the jack screw would be retracted again.
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Modifying an engine hoist
- Thread starter jmarkwolf
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- Nov 14, 2016
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I have the same hoist, but currently do not have the issue you have with sliding the legs into place. As long as I'm on a flat surface they slide in and out of the socket fairly easily. Seems like temporarily slipping a narrow wedge or shim under the wheels should help to relieve any binding.
Agree that getting them in and out of the storage position is a pain, and I've gotten pinched more than once putting them away.
Also agree with Superburban that the removable legs are a nice feature. Easy to pull the legs out to reduce the weight when moving the hoist in awkward locations, and it is easy to break it down for more compact storage. Just a few bolts to separate the upright from the base so it takes up half the room.
Agree that getting them in and out of the storage position is a pain, and I've gotten pinched more than once putting them away.
Also agree with Superburban that the removable legs are a nice feature. Easy to pull the legs out to reduce the weight when moving the hoist in awkward locations, and it is easy to break it down for more compact storage. Just a few bolts to separate the upright from the base so it takes up half the room.
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A few more thoughts / mods I have done to mine.
The 2 bolts that hold the ram arm to the base are smaller than all the other bolt on the lift. I drilled them out to be the same size so that one wrench fits everything on the lift.
I have washers added between the front casters and the base to raise it up about 1/8 inch. That is enough to make lining up the legs easy on mine, I have never noticed any rocking or other undesierable action in use.
To break it down to the next level there are the 2 bolts holding the ram arm to the base and the 2 back strap bolts at the base, I put the bolts thru the base with a big heavy washer and welded the bolt head and washer to the base so I just have studs. Now assembly or disassembly is much easier since I can have it free standing in the assembled position on just the studs and then put the nuts in place and tighten it all down with just one wrench that I store attached to the lift. Makes complete set up or breakdown for transport or long term storage a one man job.
The 2 bolts that hold the ram arm to the base are smaller than all the other bolt on the lift. I drilled them out to be the same size so that one wrench fits everything on the lift.
I have washers added between the front casters and the base to raise it up about 1/8 inch. That is enough to make lining up the legs easy on mine, I have never noticed any rocking or other undesierable action in use.
To break it down to the next level there are the 2 bolts holding the ram arm to the base and the 2 back strap bolts at the base, I put the bolts thru the base with a big heavy washer and welded the bolt head and washer to the base so I just have studs. Now assembly or disassembly is much easier since I can have it free standing in the assembled position on just the studs and then put the nuts in place and tighten it all down with just one wrench that I store attached to the lift. Makes complete set up or breakdown for transport or long term storage a one man job.
Update from OP:
I remembered I have a set of leveling feet, with long 5/8-11 stems, that I no longer need, one of which will serve nicely as a jacking screw, at the position shown in the pic below. It will screw into a 1/2in plate I happen to have in my scrap bin.
The 1/2in plate will bolt to the underside of the horizontal frame member, at the two bolts shown. The leveling foot will the simplify the tilting of the base of the hoist to more easily allow sliding the legs into place.
The small casters need only be lifted 1/2in to facilitate sliding the legs into place. Once the legs are in place the jacking screw can be unscrewed out of the way.
The 1/2in plate cannot provide maximum threaded strength, which may or may not be needed, but I may weld a "regulation" 5/8in nut to the plate. Two jam nuts at the top end of the stem will make it quick and easy to screw in/out the jacking screw with a drill motor.
This approach will not compromise the integrity of the hoist whatsoever.
I remembered I have a set of leveling feet, with long 5/8-11 stems, that I no longer need, one of which will serve nicely as a jacking screw, at the position shown in the pic below. It will screw into a 1/2in plate I happen to have in my scrap bin.
The 1/2in plate will bolt to the underside of the horizontal frame member, at the two bolts shown. The leveling foot will the simplify the tilting of the base of the hoist to more easily allow sliding the legs into place.
The small casters need only be lifted 1/2in to facilitate sliding the legs into place. Once the legs are in place the jacking screw can be unscrewed out of the way.
The 1/2in plate cannot provide maximum threaded strength, which may or may not be needed, but I may weld a "regulation" 5/8in nut to the plate. Two jam nuts at the top end of the stem will make it quick and easy to screw in/out the jacking screw with a drill motor.
This approach will not compromise the integrity of the hoist whatsoever.
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I think that approach would work, however I try to avoid creating solutions that require me to get down on my knees.
Alternative: Cut a wooden wedge or block that you can drop on the ground a simply kick into place. You could attach a couple of small countersunk magnets (many sizes available on Amazon) to the wood and stick the piece somewhere on the crane (when not in use). YMMV.
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I modified mine by mounting a harbor freight winch at the front of the boom. Put a 12 volt battery at the bottom.
Used that for a project staining solid wood doors to change out all the doors in the house. With a 10 foot 2x2 square beam with short cables at the end one person could flip the 60 lb door on sawhorses. 2 - 8 inch lag screws are driven in top and bottom of the door so they set on the sawhorses and the wet stain and poly is not touched.
Also used it for other things needing to be picked up.
No need for pumping the pump up then let the fluid out every time to raise and lower.
Used that for a project staining solid wood doors to change out all the doors in the house. With a 10 foot 2x2 square beam with short cables at the end one person could flip the 60 lb door on sawhorses. 2 - 8 inch lag screws are driven in top and bottom of the door so they set on the sawhorses and the wet stain and poly is not touched.
Also used it for other things needing to be picked up.
No need for pumping the pump up then let the fluid out every time to raise and lower.
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Just do what Harbor Freight did. Either cut the top back or add 3 sides to the existing base. The rear of the legs pivot on pins or bolts that are never removed. Further forward there are 2 pin locations. The forward one locks the legs in the down position and the rearward holes lock the legs in the up position. If on an uneven floor sometimes I have to tap one of the pins in to lock the leg down but I beveled the pins and they go in easy. I also welded the wheel mounts on the ends of the legs so they no longer swivel. This made it much easier to locate the crane at a particular spot.
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