Mini mill table binding

[redvan22]

Never saw that bulletin but I will do what it says tonight after work. Never knew exactly how to adjust both those screw nuts. Thanks.

WOW, what a difference after reading the bulletin you provided.
One of the X axis bolt screws was mad tight and the other loose plus the handle nuts weren't tight. I guess vibration over time took its toll.
The Y axis was good with little play.
After proper adjustment, like new again. No binding in either direction of the X axis.
Vet happy, thank you.

 

[mac1911]

The problem could be indirectly due to the nut. IIRC the pocket it sits in isn't machined (or not machined very well) so it could be rocking back & forth. That could result in a change in the effective amount of clearance between the feedscrew and nut, so the friction between them would vary under those conditions.

The X axis nut has two set screws so if the nut is rocking on a high point it may be possible to play around with them to adjust the alignment & reduce or eliminate the described problem. It really depends on where the high point is. It wouldn't hurt to play around with the set screws some -- loosen one then tighten the other one down, see what happens, then do the same with the other set screw.

Being new to it all lathes/machine work and picking up a used machine no previous owner seemed to know how to adjust/service it.
One thing I can say is , if you think its clean , clean it again.
I could not believe how much fine gunk was imbedded in the gibbs and ways. My carriage felt like it was moving through half dried cement. Clean it over and over now it darn near floats like skates on fresh ice.
I had all sorts of binding /tight loose movement
Cross feed nut just sits in a hole on a stub , it rocks all over. I shimmed the hole the best I can with what I had on hand it helped alot.
I also had dial contact on the housing , after cleaning out all the bearings, a complete mess.
Found a few of the balls have rough spots.
Now the gibbs, touchy touchy
So I took a good amount of time adjusting. Adjust with bed all the way in each direction and then 1/4 it then center and eventually I found a sweet spot . Oh I also to. Fine diamond stone to the gibbs and ways and took of a few very noticeable high nick spots.
I had to use shims to get the dial off the housing and provide enough thread travel to get the nut/bearings adjusted to no play.
At some point someone was in here and made a mess of the shaft.
Plus ran the machine with the bearings loose and cocked eyed, bush bearing was loose and spinning in the housing.
So keep at it, you will figure it out

 

[ChazzC]

WOW, what a difference after reading the bulletin you provided.
One of the X axis bolt screws was mad tight and the other loose plus the handle nuts weren't tight. I guess vibration over time took its toll.
The Y axis was good with little play.
After proper adjustment, like new again. No binding in either direction of the X axis.
Vet happy, thank you.

Happy to help. I have low-profile Nylon nuts on both hand wheels (Can't recall if they came that way or if I changed them).

I also added a Y-Axis Thrust Bearing Kit from PhenomEngineering – made a world of difference.

 

[homebrewed]

I had a problem with the X axis bearing block, the thrust bearings were rubbing and making very annoying screeching sounds when I turned the handwheel. I removed the block and discovered that the bearing pocket had paint in it. That's the way it came from the factory. I mounted the part in my lathe 4-jaw chuck then removed the paint and also slightly increased the ID of the pocket around the rotating part of the bearing. No squeaking now.

 

[mac1911]

I had a problem with the X axis bearing block, the thrust bearings were rubbing and making very annoying screeching sounds when I turned the handwheel. I removed the block and discovered that the bearing pocket had paint in it. That's the way it came from the factory. I mounted the part in my lathe 4-jaw chuck then removed the paint and also slightly increased the ID of the pocket around the rotating part of the bearing. No squeaking now.

I found all sorts of paint in places it should not be.
Its crazy what you find when you dig into a machine.
Its so helpful when you have help figuring it out.
Thats why Im on this forum.
Lots of help and I hope to return the favor at some point.
A 40 year old 3-1 is not the best place to start, lol

Thanks to all that help!

 

[silence dogood]

I bought the "tweaks & enhancements kit" for the mini mill from Little Machine shop. The kit has nylon inserted gib screws and much better locking levers (made in Germany). The kit is around $50, but it's worth it. You'd have to check with LMS to see if it will work on your mill.

 

[ChazzC]

I tried the nylon set screws, but didn't like the lack of "touch" so still have the original gib adjusters. As I noted, I'm not sure whether my Mini-Mill came with nylon nuts on the hand wheels, if they were included with the inch lead screw upgrade or I just replaced them myself.

One of my early changes was swapping out the oversize axis locking handles for more compact ones:





Still lift & turn adjustment, have plenty of leverage and you can actually reach them.

 

[silence dogood]

I tried the nylon set screws, but didn't like the lack of "touch" so still have the original gib adjusters. As I noted, I'm not sure whether my Mini-Mill came with nylon nuts on the hand wheels, if they were included with the inch lead screw upgrade or I just replaced them myself.

One of my early changes was swapping out the oversize axis locking handles for more compact ones:

View attachment 427694

View attachment 427695

Still lift & turn adjustment, have plenty of leverage and you can actually reach them.

Where did you get your locking handles? One thing that I like about the LMS ones is that these have double the number of indents so once I set them. I can lock or unlock in one motion without fiddling around.

 

[ChazzC]

From China via eBay; I got an assortment of sizes & lengths so I'd have whatever I needed (yeah, sure) as I also used them when I added locks to my cross slide & compound and on some side projects as well. Depending on the supplier they may have slightly different lever styles. Try searching for:

• Screw Wingnut Knob
• Ratcheting Thumb Screw Knob
• Rotating Knob Ratchet Thumb Screw
• Thumb Lever Wingnut Screw

Current pricing $3 – $5 each depending on the size, length & quantity

These only have six locking positions, but with the shorter length that hasn't been an issue.