Metal hardening

I don't know why iodized salt is discouraged for quench medium. It might (just a guess) cause a problem if the metal is to be blued afterward. -Just a guess. I do know however, that salt is intentionally iodized because it's a necessary dietary ingredient. Just like most water supplies have fluoride added to help teeth and milk is fortified with vitamin D, salt is commonly given some iodine to aid health.


Anyhow, on the issue of heat treating, I completely agree with George's suggestion to get some current books from the library and study up on the process. The fact sheets provided by most suppliers are often missing information and most don't seem to tell the whole story. Also, it wasn't until the 1970's and 80's whereby increased availability of the electron microsocpe really helped refine the procedures for heat treating. Metallurgists now have the ability to theorize and SEE what is actually happening. Prior to that, processes were established by trial and error. This doesn't just apply to exotic metals either. Many things have been learned such as the need to never let metal cool below 150 before the first temper -and that some metals require a second or third temper for best stability. Also, the critical temperatures are now known precisely. In times prior, books would say somthing like "Heat to 1400-1500 degrees"... -Close, but no cigar. Missing the mark by 20 degrees has a measurable effect as does improper soak times.


Of course this applies to precision heat treating and for some things, it's not critical.


Ray


I have thought of that,but you can also easily buy non iodized regular salt. My wife did-and it hardened up in the box!! Told her to NOT do that again!!!:) Beyond that,salt is salt,I GUESS. By the way,all this "Sea Salt" crap!! ALL salt started out as sea salt!!!!!

Sometimes it is not possible to separate fact from LORE. But,in my many years in a museum,I am reluctant to dismiss out of hand the lore part,as it sometimes turns out to be the truth for reasons we haven't thought of.

Salt in Mexico is apparently ground much finer than our salt,like popcorn salt. I'd like to find some,because it taste saltier than our salt,being ground finer. It presents more taste area to the tongue,and sticks to whatever you are shaking it on to,like French fries. Plus,you end up eating LESS salt as it its saltier. Of course,the scientists have recently proclaimed that SALT IS GOOD FOR YOU. Wish they's make up their minds!!!:)
 
To tell the truth,distilled water is best,too. You can't tell what is in city or well water,and minerals can affect the quench. Our city water in Williamsburg made the tempering colors look darker after quenching,leaving an inaccurate visual record of the true color the parts were quenched at.. Plus,minerals affect quench speed,also.
 
Salt in Mexico is apparently ground much finer than our salt,like popcorn salt. I'd like to find some,because it taste saltier than our salt,being ground finer. It presents more taste area to the tongue,and sticks to whatever you are shaking it on to,like French fries. Plus,you end up eating LESS salt as it its saltier. Of course,the scientists have recently proclaimed that SALT IS GOOD FOR YOU. Wish they's make up their minds!!!:)

I get actual "popcorn salt" at my local Foodtown grocery store in the section with the actual popcorn, as opposed to the spice section. I also use it when the 'big' crystal salt bounces off :)


Bernie
 
This came up today in my playlist on Youtube. It's a pretty good overview of hardening plain carbon steels, with some experimentation.

http://youtu.be/ulfCxDsVTWo

He mostly discusses the strength/toughness relationship, rather than hardness specifically. Quite well done though.
 
Well...I went out to....yeesh....Metal Supermarket today. Unfortunately, it's the only place in Edmonton Alberta that I know of that carries 01 tool steel. They charged me just under $70.00 for a 1" x 1/4" x 36" piece. Yikes ! Is this stuff normally this pricy ? I'm still going to need another piece of it...1/2" in order to make the hammer, but I just didn't have the cash in my pocket today. I was going to make up the trigger/sear portion tonight, but we had a 2 hour power blackout...then about 1/2 an hour of power...then off again for 1/2 an hour. I just gave up. Thanks for all your help so far guys. It really is appreciated.
 
Yeah, MS is convenient, but rarely cheap. Enco the equivalent Starrett for around $50US, or "Made in USA" for around $30US. They also have 18" lengths, price is just over half. Enco's actually one of the cheaper place to get the stuff.

Speaking of Metal Supermarkets, the one near my house has a small remnants section. If yours is similar, you may be able to find a small piece of 4140 that will do for what you need. I'm imaging most of your parts are going to be rather small.
 
Yeah, MS is convenient, but rarely cheap. Enco the equivalent Starrett for around $50US, or "Made in USA" for around $30US. They also have 18" lengths, price is just over half. Enco's actually one of the cheaper place to get the stuff.

Speaking of Metal Supermarkets, the one near my house has a small remnants section. If yours is similar, you may be able to find a small piece of 4140 that will do for what you need. I'm imaging most of your parts are going to be rather small.

Yes...both parts I need to make are small...just a hammer and trigger. The Metal Supermarket here has a bits and pieces section as well. I was in a bit of a hurry by the time I got there, so I just grabbed a bar they had on the shelf...walked up to pay for it....choked a bit....and hurried along to my next stop. :)

One thing I should ask before sacrificing another perfectly good end mill to the gods of inexperience. What end mill material should I be using on this stuff ? Should I be looking for a pure carbide one, or will the HSS or cobalt ones I already have do the job ?
 
Back
Top