Looking for recommendations on rotary tables

[Cheeseking]

Yours looks to be in real nice shape too... Mine works smooth 100% functional but has a few "bonus" features machined in the table!

 

[ScrapMetal]

Looks like you and I were looking for and found the same thing! Unfortunately tho I had to force it into my possesion at auction (paid more than I wanted to). I think you will be happy. The table can freewheel by loosening the clamp bolts on the split plate in front of the handwheel. Its on an eccentric and moves the worm off the table gear. I would also check if theres any oil in it. I took mine all apart to clean and check everything and It was bone dry inside.

Thanks for the tip on how to free up the table. That'll come in real handy. I bought mine at auction as well, and paid way more than I should have but it was in such nice shape...

Right now it moves smoothly but I'll probably have to take it apart just to satisfy myself that it's all okay.

Any idea of what kind of oil should be kept in these things?

Another thing I'm wondering about, the small alignment blocks on the underside are dwarfed by the slots in my mill's table. Is it common procedure to make larger blocks to match the slots in the table? That would make sense to me but some times things aren't quite that straight forward.

Thanks,

-Ron

 

[OldMachinist]

Yes it is common practice to make stepped fixture keys to match your machine's slots.

 

[Cheeseking]

I called Troyke about the oil and guy told me 90 or was it 75/90W gear oil. Whatever the common wt for the stuff you get at auto parts stores etc. I got a gallon jug at wally world for like $8 or something that will last an eternity... I think I over filled mine since it leaked out all over via every orifice on the thing - hand wheel shaft, center shaft, table casting/table interface lube cups you name it. Although Im starting to think that is normal because there are no seals really other than metal to metal and friction. Possibly why the PO had it dry to avoid the mess??? For low use greasing the worm might be easier and less hassle.

Maybe someone with more experience using one of these will chime in but in my mind the stepped fixture keys might be nice to use if you wanted to switch the same setup from horizontal to vertical or vice-versa and not lose the Y location. Other than that I don't see the point since you need to establish X and Y regardless what slight off angle the rotab is fastened to the table at. In the vertical mode it might also be nice to not have to indicate along the X say machining a shaft. I wouldn't spend big $ on commercially available ones but it might be a nice project.

BTW While speaking with Troyke about the lube I had them email me the exploded parts sheet and instructions if you need them.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Thanks Oldmachininst, much appreciated.

Cheeseking, I'd love to get a copy of the Troyke information if it's not too much trouble. I think you can PM or e-mail me through this board. If not let me know and I'll let you know where to send it.

Thanks again,

-Ron

 

[Cheeseking]

Made some fixture keys for mine today. ..



Ya know i need to double check on the way to disengage worm. Going by memory I said loosen the hex bolts but it may be the set screw on top. Im sure youll figure it out but didnt want to steer ya wrong.

PM sent - Ill email you the pdfs I have

 

[ScrapMetal]

Nice job on the keys. :thumbzup:

I sent you a PM.

Thanks again,

-Ron