I made mine with a piece of 4" I-beam across the room, supported at each end by 4x6's on end from the floor. All this stabilized to prevent tipping. Floor and upper attachments by sandwich plates. Instead of a trolly on the lower part of the I-beam, I use a wheel on top, with side plates hanging down to a pin I hook a chain fall to. This does require a fair amount of height, but works great.
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How to SAFELY attach a lifting device to basement beams?
- Thread starter Nelson
- Start date
I've used TurbineDoctor's way many times to drag BIG diesel engines(1000+ lbs) out by 2x6 sandwiched barn rafters with 2x4 legs. If you are worried about the verticles getting "bambi legs" you can just chain them together at the bottom or run a 2x between them on the floor or pour a 5 gallon bucket of ready mix around them(Hey, You just made a volleyball net too!!)
. If you get those guys close to verticle you can pull A LOT of steel up. compression strength of pine is crazy...maybe a doubler on the rafter if youre worried. Can't wait to see ya chippin! Todd
. If you get those guys close to verticle you can pull A LOT of steel up. compression strength of pine is crazy...maybe a doubler on the rafter if youre worried. Can't wait to see ya chippin! Todd
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2011
- Messages
- 121
Nelson
Just got looking at this long thread about lifting your head and motor. What I would do is find a clear spot where you can work between two good looking joists. Drill a 1" hole with a wood bit such as a forstner bit which is nice and short through one joist straight and start the other one at a bit of an angle horizontally a little more than half way through then pull it back out and start again in the same hole square to the surface. Once through finish the angled cut. You may have to clean the hole a bit but now you can take a piece of 3/4 inch pipe/rod say about 18 - 20 inch long and start it into the angled hole. Slip a piece 1 1/2 inch over the 3/4" that will fit most of the way between the two joists and square the 3/4" pipe up and shove it through the other joist. You should be able to lift close to 1000 ponds from that.
To move your machine in place get 3 pieces of pipe 2" diameter or there abouts long enough for the mill base to sit on them, give your self a bit extra. Pry up one side, slip a pipe under it on the side in the direction you want to travel, push the machine in that direction, you may have to use a pry bar again to get it started. Once you get close to 1/3 get the next pipe in front of the machine and by this point you should be able push it with ease onto the next pipe and as the back one comes free just keep moving it back in front again. You want to keep two pipes under it at all times. We have even moved building that way using logs.
I have several heavy pieces sitting on pipe rollers right now which don't have a permanent home yet and I can move them with very little effort. To turn just kick or drive one end of the front pipe back like you would turn a wheel and steer into the direction you want to go.
Well that is my two cents worth.
Nick
Just got looking at this long thread about lifting your head and motor. What I would do is find a clear spot where you can work between two good looking joists. Drill a 1" hole with a wood bit such as a forstner bit which is nice and short through one joist straight and start the other one at a bit of an angle horizontally a little more than half way through then pull it back out and start again in the same hole square to the surface. Once through finish the angled cut. You may have to clean the hole a bit but now you can take a piece of 3/4 inch pipe/rod say about 18 - 20 inch long and start it into the angled hole. Slip a piece 1 1/2 inch over the 3/4" that will fit most of the way between the two joists and square the 3/4" pipe up and shove it through the other joist. You should be able to lift close to 1000 ponds from that.
To move your machine in place get 3 pieces of pipe 2" diameter or there abouts long enough for the mill base to sit on them, give your self a bit extra. Pry up one side, slip a pipe under it on the side in the direction you want to travel, push the machine in that direction, you may have to use a pry bar again to get it started. Once you get close to 1/3 get the next pipe in front of the machine and by this point you should be able push it with ease onto the next pipe and as the back one comes free just keep moving it back in front again. You want to keep two pipes under it at all times. We have even moved building that way using logs.
I have several heavy pieces sitting on pipe rollers right now which don't have a permanent home yet and I can move them with very little effort. To turn just kick or drive one end of the front pipe back like you would turn a wheel and steer into the direction you want to go.
Well that is my two cents worth.
Nick
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