How do I machine this feature on this part?

[MyLilMule]

I'll keep that in mind. I'm so new to machining that I don't want to screw up something I need. I think I'd like to TRY making the new part. If it fails, I still have at least a flux core welder. If I ruin what I have, I have a seriously heavy paper weight.

 

[extropic]

I'll keep that in mind. I'm so new to machining that I don't want to screw up something I need. I think I'd like to TRY making the new part. If it fails, I still have at least a flux core welder. If I ruin what I have, I have a seriously heavy paper weight.

LOL. It's a catch 22. After you successfully build a new piece, you will have the skills and confidence to rework the original.

Always good to have a spare on the shelf. That's a virtual guarantee the problem will never reoccur. LOL

Good luck.

 

[tq60]

Have you checked for replacement from manufacturer?

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Charles scozzari]

Hello, Please don't get mad but are the bottle clocks working properly. Thats what my welds look like when I forget to open the bottle ????????

 

[woodchucker]

I'm a little late to the game here, but given that AL expands and contract heavily I would not sleeve it. I think you would wind up with a problem with the connection.

Why not do the redo in copper or brass? If it's connected to brass, use brass. Brass is easy to machine, copper less so.

As far as AL we know its used heavily for mains, and for buss bar connections It used to be used in inside wiring in homes, but they caused house fires because of the contraction, expansion.... the screws would loosen, so they add crimped pigtails to resolve the issue.

So I'll let others jump in here, but I would improve this, not duplicate it.

 

[Eyerelief]

In answer to your question, I concur, a woodruff key cutter is the ticket. Should be perfect for this application. I would keep my rpms down and make a couple light passes

 

[akjeff]

Not much to add either. Woodruff cutter would be the way to go, and then lube the copper/aluminum NOALOX the same stuff used on cu/al electrical connections, to fight the corrosion.

 

[Chewy]

Making a replacement part should be very simple. There are only a half dozen easy setups. You will need the woodruff or Tee slot cutter. You already have the drawing, so you do need to verify that it is accurate to a couple of thousands. The aluminum piece is around $4 locally, so if you buy a small bar of it (you said you had a mill) you can make and screw up several pieces for chump change. You will need to ream out the large hole, so the reamer and woodruff cutter would be the only "special" tools you need The others being drills, taps and endmills. You might get someone here to make it for you.

 

[AmericanMachinist]

I suppose if you didn't have or couldn't wait for a key cutter, perhaps these options would work. Assuming each left an allowable tolerance and surface finish.

1. Wide slitting saw skimming across the top of the part, cutting the recess.
2. Long-le length end mill (probably be pretty long for its diameter).
3. Maybe cutting on a vertical metal saw? Taking several passes to notch it out. Or at least get most of the material removed and finish it with a file.

Just some ideas in the event it was all that was available.

 

[AmericanMachinist]

I wonder... could one mill a "broach plug" (guide?) which clamps against the surface needing the slot to be removed and use a broach.