Help with Harbor Freight switch.

[markba633csi]

Agreed, I think entirely too many things are thrown away when they could be fixed
The switch is of the "Baomain" type which is (I think) symmetrical in the contact closures
I'll post a truth table for it- give me a few minutes
The motor reverses by swapping one pair of wires; the switch does that and also does the "on/off" function for power
Here is a typical truth table:

 

[Qmavam]

Fixin things> Around my house it's called a man thing, and my wife loves to pickup stuff and bring it home for me to fix.
Latest was 22" Toro Mower with a Kohler engine. The plastic drag piece on the rear of the mower deck was broken. I said
would fix it if it didn't start easy. Second pull it started and ran fine. I scabbed a piece of scrap aluminum across the break in the plastic
put 6 screws in it and it's fine. I did have to spend $14 for an air clean and the air cleaner cover. Best thing is my wife can start it!
I have a DVM and electronic experience, and should know more about motors, I worked in a motor rewind shop in the 70s.
I could probably figure it out if I knew how to connect the 4 wires to the 2 AC wire for forward, and how to connect them for reverse.

 

[markba633csi]

OK, so what we need to know is:
Identification of the 4 wires from motor (2 will be start leg, 2 will be the pair of main windings)
Truth table from switch (we have that)
Arrangement of jumpers on switch
With the first two we can wire it from scratch if necessary, but hopefully we won't

 

[Qmavam]

Start winding will have lower resistance?

 

[markba633csi]

No, higher usually, but if you are measuring the start leg including the cap and centrifugal switch you will get a strange reading that starts low and rises.
In the terminal block, the start leg is usually Z1 and Z2. The main windings are some flavor of U and V and should give a steady low ohm reading <5 ohms
Trace it out visually if necessary. If you can ID the main windings we can assume the other two are start

 

[Qmavam]

No, higher usually, but if you are measuring the start leg including the cap and centrifugal switch you will get a strange reading that starts low and rises.
In the terminal block, the start leg is usually Z1 and Z2. The main windings are some flavor of U and V and should give a steady low ohm reading <5 ohms
Trace it out visually if necessary. If you can ID the main windings we can assume the other two are start

Not what I expected, but maybe a series cap is messing with my DC resistance test.
See picture attached.
Also is the way my machine is wired and colors. There is a light blue and dark blue, and light brown and dark brown, but not easy to see the difference. I have a brown instead of white that is printed on the HF diagram.

 

[Qmavam]

OK, so what we need to know is:
Identification of the 4 wires from motor (2 will be start leg, 2 will be the pair of main windings)
Truth table from switch (we have that)
Arrangement of jumpers on switch
With the first two we can wire it from scratch if necessary, but hopefully we won't

I did a picture of the top view and a drawing of each side view.
The "OtherSide View" as shown the jumpers are just from upper screw terminal to the lower screw terminal on all 4 sections.
The "Side View" is a bit more complicated, let me know if that drawing doesn't suffice.

Thanks, Mikek

 

[matthewsx]

Hey, I have one of these and $100 is a fantastic price.

I pulled the stock motor off and am in the process of converting to 3 phase.

John

 

[Qmavam]

I think I found something to help me.
I looked in the back, at the motor box. It has two capacitors.
Do you think this is the way the motor on the Mill is wired?
If yes, I'll work on a diagram bringing Z2, U2, U1, and V1 as four wires out to the switch,
and then figure out how the switch connections need to be.
Thanks, Mikek

 

[Qmavam]

Hey, I have one of these and $100 is a fantastic price.

I pulled the stock motor off and am in the process of converting to 3 phase.

John

Yes, The place I worked at closed and it sat in the building for 10 years. The building was starting to collapse around it,
so I offered the landlord $100 and he put it on my trailer and I'm happy. I took some of it apart to clean it up and found
sand from the original casting, 25+ years after the original purchase.
Mikek