ER 32 Collet Chuck

[Ischgl99]

I understand the desire to share collets between machines, but what you want to do would be better done with 5c collets. You can make or buy a depth stop that screws into the back of the 5c collets that will make that job easy, ER collets don't have a provision for setting a depth stop since they are meant for work holding.

I have an ER40 and 5c collet chucks for my lathe, they both have their place. I bought the ER40 first, and then not much later bought the 5c collet chuck since the ER collets don't work well with short work pieces and the 5c shines there.

 

[Scruffer]

I understand the desire to share collets between machines, but what you want to do would be better done with 5c collets. You can make or buy a depth stop that screws into the back of the 5c collets that will make that job easy, ER collets don't have a provision for setting a depth stop since they are meant for work holding.

I have an ER40 and 5c collet chucks for my lathe, they both have their place. I bought the ER40 first, and then not much later bought the 5c collet chuck since the ER collets don't work well with short work pieces and the 5c shines there.

Good point. Looks like having both sets is more options if you can fit into your budget. It was always my understanding that the tooling eventually costs more than the machines. As a newbie hobbyist, I am trying to purchase smart. Lots to learn. Thks

 

[mickri]

If you are going to have to make a backing plate why don't you just make an ER40 collet chuck. They are not hard to make. I made one for my lathe. If I can make one anybody can. You have to be able to cut a 1.5mm thread. And it will be more concentric than anything that you can buy.

 

[Scruffer]

If you are going to have to make a backing plate why don't you just make an ER40 collet chuck. They are not hard to make. I made one for my lathe. If I can make one anybody can. You have to be able to cut a 1.5mm thread. And it will be more concentric than anything that you can buy.

My spindle nose is a L-0. The threads are listed as 60 degrees @ 6 tpi on a 4.500 diameter. For now, I am buying a L-O backplate. The face is flat and probably going to have do some machining to register. It was suggested to allow about 1 thou clearance to dial it in when installing since the nose may not be dead on. Path of least resistance right now. Later on, making the collet chuck can be a work in progress.

 

[Ischgl99]

Good point. Looks like having both sets is more options if you can fit into your budget. It was always my understanding that the tooling eventually costs more than the machines. As a newbie hobbyist, I am trying to purchase smart. Lots to learn. Thks

Yes, tooling costs add up quick! I like both my ER40 and 5c chucks, and probably use them about the same amount. ER is nice due to the amount the collet can collapse down, so you don’t need as many collets. I mostly use it with inch sized collets with bar stock through the spindle, but I machine mostly in metric, so the closing range of the collets works both for the bar stock and the parts I machined, provided the part is long enough. If the parts are short, the ER collet can’t grip it well, the part needs to be about 2/3 the length of the collet I believe to grip it otherwise the collet closes crooked and the part is not held sufficiently. That is where 5c is needed, the part can be really short and it will still grip because it only grips at the front of the collet. But, 5c only has a really small clamping range, so you need a collet for every size you will be machining.

As mentioned above, I would go with a 5c set up for this job so that you have a depth stop for doing both sizes to the proper length, but if you don’t foresee needing a depth stop for this project or anything planned in the future, an ER chuck would work too. Another option, you could make an ER chuck that is held in a four jaw chuck. I did that before buying my chucks, and it worked ok. It wasn’t great, but for the cost of a nut and a short piece of material, it got me going. You can use Joe Pie’s method for setting the angle of your compound, and then verifying it on a collet. The picture below is what I made, it is square because once I got my ER chuck, I took the round chuck I originally made and put flats on it to use in my mill vise. I had trouble getting the flats square to the collet taper and gave up and bought 5c collet blocks for the mill instead, but it was a good learning experience.



On last thing, if you haven’t seen it already, This Old Tony has a video on YouTube where he makes a backing plate for his lathe with the same type of spindle as yours if you want to make one in the future.

 

[Scruffer]

I am a subscriber on Joe Pie & This Old Tony. And others. Everyone brings something to the table. My project is for myself and non critical in dimensions. Mainly getting the threads centered. I am retired and the timeline is just at my pace. Since I am doing 50 of each 1", 3/4", & 3/8" rods threads on each end, I am leaning toward repeatability on doing it. The lengths of the rods aren't critical. I've been watching videos on power tapping. The 3/8" rods (10-32) thread I would not attempt power tapping. I can make my cuts with the appropriate blade on my chop saw. All rods are aluminum. Now, to decide whether to use the mill or lathe to face, drill, and tap the rods. That's where my inexperience level doesn't help. I've never power tapped before. I've seen some tooling chucks that are made for this operation. Some sort of clutch device where you can set the tension. All holes are blind. I have plug & bottom taps but they're straight flute and not spiral. Made for hand tapping. I can do it the old fashion way but I am trying to slowly up my game.

 

[machPete99]

Great pic. Since my spindle is L-0, I probably need to use the larger flange mounted collet chuck (3901-5038) for the ER 40. The supplier looks to be HHiP. Amazon has it. It comes with the wrench. So, my next newbie question, can I use a low friction nut on the collet chuck? Are the threads standard? Thks

Threads are generally standardized in the ER system, just make sure you match up the "family", i.e. ER32 vs ER40.

One exception that I have run into is an ER32 spindex that I bought seems to have a different (larger) custom nut for some reason, has a larger thread and takes a larger spanner wrench.

You can also buy ER collet blocks in square and hex shapes that can be mounted in a lathe chuck or milling vice that can do similar things, as well as permit precision square and hex machining. These are also typically "through hole" construction so can handle longer stock. I find these to be very useful.

 

[ChazzC]

Threads are generally standardized in the ER system, just make sure you match up the "family", i.e. ER32 vs ER40.

One exception that I have run into is an ER32 spindex that I bought seems to have a different (larger) custom nut for some reason, has a larger thread and takes a larger spanner wrench.

The reason the ER32 SpinDexer has a special nut is that it is actually a 5C SpindeXer with a 5C/ER32 taper adapter permanently inserted. I got the ER32 version since a) I had ER32 collets and 2) I couldn't use 5C collets on anything else I had or would have in the foreseeable future. A 5C version plus a "standard" ER32/5C Adapter would have cost a little more, but would have a higher resale value.

 

[ChazzC]

Great pic. Since my spindle is L-0, I probably need to use the larger flange mounted collet chuck (3901-5038) for the ER 40. The supplier looks to be HHiP. Amazon has it. It comes with the wrench. So, my next newbie question, can I use a low friction nut on the collet chuck? Are the threads standard? Thks

I keep a ball bearing nut on my ER32 collet chuck with backing plate for my Mini-Lathe - works great! I got mine from Rocky Mountain CNC; here's their ER40:



I went with ER-32 since the spindle bore on the lathe is 20mm, so there wasn't any reason to go bigger. Later I found a source for "extra large" ER32 collets (up to 25mm) – not as accurate (0.0006"/0.015mm TIR vs. 0.0003"/0.008mm for my other collets), but handier and more accurate than using the three-jaw.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Another newbie question. I have an older LeBlond lathe that has a LO spindle. I do have a 3 & 4 jaw chuck for the lathe. I also have a Bridgeport J head mill. I am thinking of getting ER 32 collets so I can use them both on the lathe and mill. However, I am not sure if I can even get an ER collet chuck for my lathe. Options?

Knowing what I know now, I would suggest that you get an ER40 instead.