Drum switch conundrum

[Oilcan]

Hi new here and just acquired a Logan 922 . I m changing motor because it has a beast of a old Delco 1 1/2 horse that dims the lights every time I pull the switch.
My problem is yet another drum switch and Dayton motor hookup. It’s 3/4 hp 110/220 4 wire. I emailed Granger for diagrams and got them but still not sure I got it. Drum switch is a Furnas R44. I’ll have to hook up 110. Any help would be appreciated

 

[Ulma Doctor]

115v operation:
the main and start windings are in parallel, the start winding is reversed to give direction change

 

[markba633csi]

What is it you are having trouble with? Identifying the motor wires?
-Mark

 

[Oilcan]

What is it you are having trouble with? Identifying the motor wires? Have you tried to connect it?
-Mark

I guess my question is that’d I hook up drum switch directly to red wire coming from motor winding before it goes to thermal overload switch? The rest I think I understand.

 

[markba633csi]

I believe the answer is yes, you bring the red wire directly out as well as the yellow and white ones, and you also add wires from motor terminals 1, 2 and 4 to the drum switch as shown- should work
Make sure to insulate any exposed terminals and splices as best you can
Running a ground wire to both the motor case and drum switch case is always a good idea too- using a 3 wire power cord
-Mark
Dayton has the most oddball wiring arrangement out there unfortunately

 

[Oilcan]

I believe the answer is yes, you bring the red wire directly out as well as the yellow and white ones, and you also add wires from motor terminals 1, 2 and 4 to the drum switch as shown- should work
Make sure to insulate any exposed terminals and splices as best you can
Running a ground wire to the motor case is always a good idea too- using a 3 wire power cord
-Mark
Dayton has the most oddball wiring arrangement out there unfortunately

Thanks Mark that’s what I thought but just wanted to check with someone else who had more experience with this. Yeah this Dayton happened to come off an old 1930’s Atlas saw I bought . So I thought I’d give it a try as it still runs strong. But you’re right every time I read something about hooking up a Dayton there’s some head scratching going on.
Thanks again, Steve

 

[projectnut]

Are you sure you don't have a problem with something other than the motor? Like maybe to small a gauge wire, to long a run, poor connections, or over rated power supply? A 1.5 hp motor should only draw 10.5 amps at full power. My 1960 Sheldon lathe has a 2 hp motor and literally has no effect on any other machinery, or lighting in the shop when it starts up.

 

[markba633csi]

Looking at this again I see something that looks fishy- can you post the motor model #?
Also can you post the Dayton motor internal diagram larger or at a higher resolution- it's not legible enough to read
If the red wire comes from the thermal button the diagram they gave you is wrong
-Mark

 

[Oilcan]

Looking at this again I see something that looks fishy- can you post the motor model #?
Also can you post the Dayton motor internal diagram larger or at a higher resolution- it's not legible enough to read
If the red wire comes from the thermal button the diagram they gave you is wrong
-Mark

Sure the model on Dayton is 5K460A . The emailed copy was even hard for to make out, but I’ll attach higher quality.
Steve

 

[Oilcan]

Looking at this again I see something that looks fishy- can you post the motor model #?
Also can you post the Dayton motor internal diagram larger or at a higher resolution- it's not legible enough to read
If the red wire comes from the thermal button the diagram they gave you is wrong
-Mark

They also sent another file with right model number but it looks less like motor it shows more wires.