- Joined
- Mar 17, 2013
- Messages
- 87
Sorry we are already in hell anytime someone can sue for hot coffee burning them and win. Sad part is it just gets worse
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- Joined
- Feb 4, 2014
- Messages
- 185
That's what we call natural selection, and there is a reason for it.
I hurt my hand badly because I was ignorant and dumb, I paid the price for it and learned. I did not blame my ignorance and/or stupidity on someone else and demand that they hold my hand (or lack thereof) and throw money at me for making a mistake.
As much as losing a limb or digits sucks, be thankful you still posses a life to make something with and don't ruin other's just because you don't know how to manage yours.
I hurt my hand badly because I was ignorant and dumb, I paid the price for it and learned. I did not blame my ignorance and/or stupidity on someone else and demand that they hold my hand (or lack thereof) and throw money at me for making a mistake.
As much as losing a limb or digits sucks, be thankful you still posses a life to make something with and don't ruin other's just because you don't know how to manage yours.
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2011
- Messages
- 786
A legal organization probably financed by Saw Stop themselves. Saw Stop isn't bad concept in theory, but I can't believe one could make a precision cabinet makers type saw that would be completely intact after the Saw Stop fires without any degradation is accuracy.
When I bought my saw, I looked at Saw Stop's offerings and rejected them due to the cost of replacing parts if the mechanism falsely fires (which I was told they do sometimes on wet wood) and because the saws themselves were cheap sheet metal saws. No cast iron anywhere.
The best safety feature of any power tool, in my opinion, is the operator. A little background information and common sense goes a long way. That said, better safety could be acheived by better manuals that not only describe how to use the particular saw, but how to use a table saw correctly in general.
It's obvious one should keep one's fingers, hands, arms, etc away from a blade spinning at 3600 RPM. What's not so obvious is situations where safely placed hands could be drawn into the blade.
What's more: kick-back. I've never seen any table saw manual make mention of where a push stick should push on wood being feed into the saw while using the fence. The answer, which is well known to any seasoned table saw operator, is that the stick should push on a point between the blade and the fence.
The second thing I've seen a lot of guys doing is using both the rip fence and the miter slide simultaneously. This seems like a good idea because you could use both to achieve multiple cuts at the same length. Problem is, this is dangerous! The wood being cut is constrained on both sides. If it trys to cock, it binds in the blade and can kick back - hard! Ask me how I know and I'll tell you I had a bruised stomach for two weeks. What's worse is I knew better... Whose fault is that? Delta's? Nope. Mine. Plain and simple. But getting back to how to make a cut like this safely:
Again, as any seasoned table saw guy can tell you, the rip fence and miter slide can be safely used simultaneously if a minimum 1" spacer block is used towards the front of the rip fence to position the wood on the miter slide. Then, as the wood is pushed forwards, one side of the wood is clear of the rip fence before the blade makes contact. When the cut work starts to clear the blade, the offcut can move away from the blade and have someplace to go besides pinched between the blade and fence...
Now, in my opinion, these are all common sense based on understanding of what the saw and materials are doing.
If I were a table saw manufacturer, I'd include a DVD with my saw with a clever title like "Advanced Saw Techniques" that pique the interest of the average saw owner. I'd deliver that content, but also explain safety along the way. Monkey see, monkey do...
John
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When I read that part fast I got "I still have all my 35 fingers years after first using a saw." :lmao:
John
When I bought my saw, I looked at Saw Stop's offerings and rejected them due to the cost of replacing parts if the mechanism falsely fires (which I was told they do sometimes on wet wood) and because the saws themselves were cheap sheet metal saws. No cast iron anywhere.
The best safety feature of any power tool, in my opinion, is the operator. A little background information and common sense goes a long way. That said, better safety could be acheived by better manuals that not only describe how to use the particular saw, but how to use a table saw correctly in general.
It's obvious one should keep one's fingers, hands, arms, etc away from a blade spinning at 3600 RPM. What's not so obvious is situations where safely placed hands could be drawn into the blade.
What's more: kick-back. I've never seen any table saw manual make mention of where a push stick should push on wood being feed into the saw while using the fence. The answer, which is well known to any seasoned table saw operator, is that the stick should push on a point between the blade and the fence.
The second thing I've seen a lot of guys doing is using both the rip fence and the miter slide simultaneously. This seems like a good idea because you could use both to achieve multiple cuts at the same length. Problem is, this is dangerous! The wood being cut is constrained on both sides. If it trys to cock, it binds in the blade and can kick back - hard! Ask me how I know and I'll tell you I had a bruised stomach for two weeks. What's worse is I knew better... Whose fault is that? Delta's? Nope. Mine. Plain and simple. But getting back to how to make a cut like this safely:
Again, as any seasoned table saw guy can tell you, the rip fence and miter slide can be safely used simultaneously if a minimum 1" spacer block is used towards the front of the rip fence to position the wood on the miter slide. Then, as the wood is pushed forwards, one side of the wood is clear of the rip fence before the blade makes contact. When the cut work starts to clear the blade, the offcut can move away from the blade and have someplace to go besides pinched between the blade and fence...
Now, in my opinion, these are all common sense based on understanding of what the saw and materials are doing.
If I were a table saw manufacturer, I'd include a DVD with my saw with a clever title like "Advanced Saw Techniques" that pique the interest of the average saw owner. I'd deliver that content, but also explain safety along the way. Monkey see, monkey do...
John
- - - Updated - - -
When I read that part fast I got "I still have all my 35 fingers years after first using a saw." :lmao:
John
It's awful that the guy lost his digits but, it was not the manufacturer's fault. I don't understand why some people get the money they do. I've also seen a ridiculous law suit go in favor of a company that should have paid out. More than once. Here's one example.
The shop I used to work in had concrete floors sloping to a metal drain grate in the center of the bay. The design was such that the drain cover plates OFTEN flipped when walked on putting the tech's foot in the drain. There were plenty of incidents and plenty of complaints. The shop still never had any warnings or fines from OSHA or MSHA inspections.
One of the techs finally had a severe back injury requiring surgery after climbing off a large machine and stepping on the floor drain. It flipped over and dropped him in.
The company said it was his fault, he was not working in a safe manor. He said the company knew about these drains and still haven't fixed them. They said this comment proved he knew about the dangerous drain and still stepped on it anyway.
As soon as the tech contacted a lawyer he was terminated. He lost his case in court. Appeal's have been going on for years. He can't even speak to his doctor without lawyers being present from both sides. It's really complicated. He gets some kind of workman's comp money but isn't doing well financially. It's just wrong.
Big companies with big money, power, and political connections seem to have the upper hand. You'd think Ryobi would have won. Maybe cheaper to pay out?
The shop I used to work in had concrete floors sloping to a metal drain grate in the center of the bay. The design was such that the drain cover plates OFTEN flipped when walked on putting the tech's foot in the drain. There were plenty of incidents and plenty of complaints. The shop still never had any warnings or fines from OSHA or MSHA inspections.
One of the techs finally had a severe back injury requiring surgery after climbing off a large machine and stepping on the floor drain. It flipped over and dropped him in.
The company said it was his fault, he was not working in a safe manor. He said the company knew about these drains and still haven't fixed them. They said this comment proved he knew about the dangerous drain and still stepped on it anyway.
As soon as the tech contacted a lawyer he was terminated. He lost his case in court. Appeal's have been going on for years. He can't even speak to his doctor without lawyers being present from both sides. It's really complicated. He gets some kind of workman's comp money but isn't doing well financially. It's just wrong.
Big companies with big money, power, and political connections seem to have the upper hand. You'd think Ryobi would have won. Maybe cheaper to pay out?
Last edited:
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like the cracker jacks lawsuit...no toy
http://news.google.com/newspapers?n...pUiAAAAIBAJ&sjid=7KkFAAAAIBAJ&pg=2342,5822629
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2012
- Messages
- 745
I'd be curious to know how much the lawyers get from those multi-million lawsuits.
BTW, did you notice the most of politicians are lawyers, too?
BTW, did you notice the most of politicians are lawyers, too?
I've had my SawStop for a few years now. A friend of mine owned a woodworking store and sold it to me for the same price I could get a Powermatic or Unisaw for. It is as accurate as either the PM or the Delta. It has a large, thick cast iron table, heavy steel chassis, 5 HP and good dust collection.
My dado is a Frued, but you have to us 8" dado blade. You can lay the board on top of the blade with your hand on it when the blade is off to see if the water content is a problem. If you are cutting wood with the water content of a hot dog you are using the wrong saw.
Never fired mine, hope I don't but I have used a demo unit that was fired dozens of times and didn't see an issue with its arbor.
My wife feels much better about the SawStop and insisted I go with it when I upgraded.
Dave
My dado is a Frued, but you have to us 8" dado blade. You can lay the board on top of the blade with your hand on it when the blade is off to see if the water content is a problem. If you are cutting wood with the water content of a hot dog you are using the wrong saw.
Never fired mine, hope I don't but I have used a demo unit that was fired dozens of times and didn't see an issue with its arbor.
My wife feels much better about the SawStop and insisted I go with it when I upgraded.
Dave
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2013
- Messages
- 583
I was at a woodworking show last year and was comparing tablesaws. I looked at General, Powermatic, Steel City, Delta Unisaw and the Saw Stop.... The Saw Stop looked to be superbly made and actually was the smoothest of the bunch to raise and lower the blade, as well as changing the angle. I didn't buy it because of the cost, but was very impressed with it.
Brian
Brian
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2013
- Messages
- 927
it has to have been years ago now, but I remember reading a news article about saw-stop that said that they were attempting to get a law passed that would require their product to be installed on every saw. Period. It's only for the common good after all...
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