I put a DRO on my RF-30 clone, big whoop.

[bulgie]

I cut out the notch for the lead screw bearing housing as you did and I also relieved the mill base for clearance of the housing which gave me an extra 4-3/4" of travel in the x direction .

That's so cool how you eked out all that extra X-travel that the designers tried to keep from us! I will steal that idea for sure. I had noticed how much extra travel I get with one handwheel removed, but your "one weird trick" (clickbait joke), with the extension between the leadscrew and the handwheel, makes that actually usable.

It just so happens that a project in my queue is going to need a long feature cut in some bars that are too long for my travel. I figured I'd have to unclamp, move, reclamp and indicate it in to finish the cut, but maybe your hack will let me do it in one setup. I hope I chose a long enough DRO scale to let me use it all, have to investigate. My scale is a bit shorter than the table, but longer than the "advertised" X-travel. Eager to try it and see. Even if I have to buy a longer scale, they're cheap and easy to install.

Thanks!

 

[Harry Knutz]

Nice Job Bulgie!

 

[Harry Knutz]

That's so cool how you eked out all that extra X-travel that the designers tried to keep from us! I will steal that idea for sure. I had noticed how much extra travel I get with one handwheel removed, but your "one weird trick" (clickbait joke), with the extension between the leadscrew and the handwheel, makes that actually usable.

It just so happens that a project in my queue is going to need a long feature cut in some bars that are too long for my travel. I figured I'd have to unclamp, move, reclamp and indicate it in to finish the cut, but maybe your hack will let me do it in one setup. I hope I chose a long enough DRO scale to let me use it all, have to investigate. My scale is a bit shorter than the table, but longer than the "advertised" X-travel. Eager to try it and see. Even if I have to buy a longer scale, they're cheap and easy to install.

Thanks!

If the scale is too short, The glass scales will break if you keep going past the end of the scale.

 

[RJSakowski]

That's so cool how you eked out all that extra X-travel that the designers tried to keep from us! I will steal that idea for sure. I had noticed how much extra travel I get with one handwheel removed, but your "one weird trick" (clickbait joke), with the extension between the leadscrew and the handwheel, makes that actually usable.

It just so happens that a project in my queue is going to need a long feature cut in some bars that are too long for my travel. I figured I'd have to unclamp, move, reclamp and indicate it in to finish the cut, but maybe your hack will let me do it in one setup. I hope I chose a long enough DRO scale to let me use it all, have to investigate. My scale is a bit shorter than the table, but longer than the "advertised" X-travel. Eager to try it and see. Even if I have to buy a longer scale, they're cheap and easy to install.

Thanks!

With extra 2" on either end of my scale, I measure 3" from the end of the scale on the left and 4" on the right at the maximum extent for travel. If my scale was flush with either end of the it would leave me about 1/8" short on the left and and 7/8" over on the right.

You may need to reposition your x axis read head to take advantage of the extra travel. Keep in mind that by allowing for additional travel you are not using the full extent of the gib.

Also, at the extreme position, you are moving the center of gravity further to the right and you could create an unstable situation. My mill is bolted to a 200 lb. 24" wide stand with perhaps 100 lbs of hardware stowed underneath and I have a 200 lb. RT semi-permanently mounted to the table but that might not be the case for a free standing mill or a lightweight stand.

 

[bulgie]

With extra 2" on either end of my scale, I measure 3" from the end of the scale on the left and 4" on the right at the maximum extent for travel. If my scale was flush with either end of the it would leave me about 1/8" short on the left and and 7/8" over on the right.

You may need to reposition your x axis read head to take advantage of the extra travel. Keep in mind that by allowing for additional travel you are not using the full extent of the gib.

Also, at the extreme position, you are moving the center of gravity further to the right and you could create an unstable situation. My mill is bolted to a 200 lb. 24" wide stand with perhaps 100 lbs of hardware stowed underneath and I have a 200 lb. RT semi-permanently mounted to the table but that might not be the case for a free standing mill or a lightweight stand.

Thanks for that. I know not to exceed the travel of the scale, that's why I mentioned maybe buying a longer one. But my suspicion is I can probably live with the length of this one, and only eke out a little more travel, not the full amount possible like you have. Maybe with temporarily unbolting the scale for that one odd job that needs every millimeter of travel. But your idea is a great "arrow in my quiver", to keep in reserve in case I ever need it.

My stand is also very heavy and loaded with heavy gear in the shelves, plus it's 24" wide, and bolted to concrete anchors, up at the height where the mill attaches, on the back and one side. My house would have to fall on its side for this mill to fall over. Your cautions are good to mention though, not everyone has such a stable platform.

 

[epanzella]

I mounted my X axis scale to the front of the table. I put it on standoffs that also double as stops for my power feed. I also made extended handles for my table locks.

 

[bulgie]

I mounted my X axis scale to the front of the table. I put it on standoffs that also double as stops for my power feed. I also made extended handles for my table locks.

Smart. I may steal that idea.