DOC with older Grizzly (G1002)?

Answers to questions I didn't ask has always been a pet peeve of mine.
As a software engineer of nearly 30 years professional experience, I get that.

Sometimes you want to just get an answer to a question.

However, there are two types of these "insufficient contextual information" questions:

You are doing something weird/arse about face/of bad practice but for genuinely sensible and good reason, and you don't want or are just too weary of the circumstances that have led you to this painted in corner (often the 'paint' having been 'applied' by somebody else) to go into detail about the whys and wherefores, you just want an answer. That's fair enough but it requires some careful phrasing of the question to avoid those annoying "why are you doing that in the first place?" questions.

The other type is the kind of question being such that any answer given will be about as much use as a one-legged man at an arse-kicking contest. :grin:

I'm afraid your question is the latter type.

How will some rando on the internet telling you what DOC they can take on a lathe with different behavioural characteristics, different tooling and different materials help you? :grin:

Seriously mate, people on here aren't trying to score points or show how hardcore a tough, grizzled machinist they are? They're trying to help. Humility and showing a need for help isn't weakness. :)
 
Thanks, but my issue is that ya'll are missing my point. Most of what's been posted here is stuff I'm already well aware of. I may not have 40 years experience machining, but I'm not exactly a newb, either. I KNOW that feeds and speeds are more a suggested starting point rather than cast in stone. I know that different tooling and grinds matter, and that MY setup isn't going to produce the same results that YOUR setup might. I'm also not someone that expects to have others just hand me the answers, I do a LOT of research on subjects that interest me before I start asking questions. I'm the guy that reads the manual BEFORE all else fails. Answers to questions I didn't ask has always been a pet peeve of mine. I asked a fairly specific question, and of the 14 or so posts in this thread, I got 2 answers that were on point. I'm really not trying to be a jerk, but I'm also not some dumb lazy kid that can't be bothered to do my own homework. All I was after was a general idea of what folks that actually own one of these machines was able to do with it. Apparently I didn't make that clear. Later.

Dave
Dave,
No one was implying you are dumb, lazy or didn't do your homework. We are only saying you haven't supplied enough information to give an accurate response. The question that may be crystal clear in your mind, may not be crystal clear in my mind of those reading it. Like learning the to use a machine, one must also learn how to ask a clear question to get an accurate answer.
 
As an example, a well set up Sherline lathe can cut a beautiful 0.060" DOC in steel with HSS tooling. A Sherline is probably 1/4 the size as the OP's lathe. It can and has done beautiful and precise work, within it's envelope. A poorly set up 7x mini-lathe may only do 0.010" DOC because nothing was sent up correctly by the factory.

We simply don't know what condition your lathe is in, whether it's been adjusted correctly, or if the tool is sideways. Last comment is not pointed at the OP, but we've seen pictures from members like that. We gently correct them and they improve and learn.

Set up and tool grind matter. Which is why we asked. It's not always the size of your lathe (it ultimately helps) but how well you set it up and adjusted things, along with grind, stick out of both the tool and the stock. (Or even how the stock is held in a chuck.)

This is why we ask for pictures - to help people learn more effective and productive techniques.

So show us your setup and we may be able to help you do better.
 
Mild steel is hard to get a good finish on, compared to aluminum and brass. Usually I end up polishing it with emery cloth.
Regular steel tends to "tear" when cut even with a sharp tool. Moly steels cut better, 4130 for example.
 
For the OP,
This is the finish I am able to achieve straight off my DF-1237G.
This is an off cut from a trailer hitch equalizer bar so definitely not mild steel but rather some tough alloy.
For scale stock is probably 1.5"
IMG_1939.jpeg
 
Mild steel is hard to get a good finish on, compared to aluminum and brass. Usually I end up polishing it with emery cloth.
Regular steel tends to "tear" when cut even with a sharp tool. Moly steels cut better, 4130 for example.
Do you find this even with the free machining mild steels like EN1Pb (or 12L14 in your vernacular:)).

I suppose I'm guilty now of not asking the right question actually.:oops::grin:

So I guess I need to append to the above question: when you say 'good finish' do you mean a decorative 'good' finish, or a functional (as in sliding fit in a plain bearing for example) 'good' finish?
 
12L14 finishes great, like a mirror most of the time. If it doesn't, you have a chip on your tool. Hone it, or replace it and the finish is terrific again. 1144 stress proof is nice to machine too. Both machine so much better than 1018 mild steel.
 
I have yet to try 12L14 so can't comment. I think I used 1144 once and it was nice
I would say a finish that looks rough will not be ideal for a sliding bearing fit either
You can often catch a fingernail on turned mild steel it's that rough but for many non-critical apps it's ok
 
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I have yet to try 12L14 so can't comment. I think I used 1144 once and it was nice
I would say a finish that looks rough will not be ideal for a sliding bearing fit either
You can often catch a fingernail on turned mild steel it's that rough but for many non-critical apps it's ok
EN1Pb is a must try. You'll love it.

Sorry, what I meant was that I'd expect a finish required for that example of a sliding fit would be a more demanding finish requirement than just a cosmetic 'good' finish.
 
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