DOC with older Grizzly (G1002)?

Tool shape and grind can affect ease and depth of cutting. We like pictures here, so show us your setup and tooling so you can get better advice. We don't know your tooling size nor stick out. Nor if your gibs are adjusted correctly nor if you've locked your cross slide. It all matters, to some degree. So show us what you have and how you are using it.
 
It looks like I ruffled some feathers, for that I apologize, it wasn't my intention. It also looks like this thread is going well off the track I wanted to head down, so lets all just move on. Thanks for the responses, later.

Dave
 
There is no one answer, it varies. What type of Steel, what type of HSS tool, how is it ground, Brazed carbide or insert, which type of insert, the diameter of the work. the HP of the motor? All those factors and more play a part in determining the best DOC.
With experience you will get a sense for where to start for a given tool and material, than as mentioned above, you increase or decrease till you find the best feed, speed & DOC for the task at hand. Also note, the FS&DOC isn't supercritical, those charts and formulas are mainly for production work, where the goal is to crank out work as fast as possible while balancing tool life. There usually is a fairly wide range that will work. I have been machining for about 40 years now and hardly ever consulted a chart...
That being said, as a rule of thumb, I generally start with a .025" for steel and maybe .050 for aluminum.
 
It looks like I ruffled some feathers, for that I apologize, it wasn't my intention. It also looks like this thread is going well off the track I wanted to head down, so lets all just move on. Thanks for the responses, later.

Dave
No feathers ruffled here. Help us help you, by posting pictures. We usually can see things that you may have missed. We're a helpful group and usually can get you sorted quicker than struggling by yourself. Moving on won't help you, but your continued participation in the conversation might. We try to help people here, so give it a second chance.
 
It looks like I ruffled some feathers, for that I apologize, it wasn't my intention. It also looks like this thread is going well off the track I wanted to head down, so lets all just move on. Thanks for the responses, later.
No ruffled feathers here and the thread is on track . Just more information is needed regarding what your expectations are and types of tooling used . There are no dumb questions in machining and especially on this site . If more critical information was provided , I'm sure the responses would be better . :)
 
It looks like I ruffled some feathers, for that I apologize, it wasn't my intention. It also looks like this thread is going well off the track I wanted to head down, so lets all just move on. Thanks for the responses, later.

Dave
The problem with your question was that it wasn't a question that can be answered...or at least not by anybody who has thought about your question with any rigour.

If you really want to 'calibrate' your opinion of your lathe's capabilities, I reckon your best bet would be to post a video (including sound) of you taking a cut that you think you should be able to take. Make sure the video clearly shows part and tool stick out and the nature of the tooling and tell us what steel you're using for your part.

Then people should be able to hazard a guess as to what's going on and help you.

The rest of this post is for you to read or ignore as you see fit. Eh, I think it's useful information but then, I would say that. :grin:

You see there are no lathes out there like your lathe.

Okay, maybe in their hey-day, the standard production lathe manufacturers in the US and Europe (South Bend, Colchester, Harrison and the like) would have produced lathes that mostly all behaved similarly to each other (allowing for the rare occasional QC miss) but there'd probably be enough variation straight from the factory to mean that the lathe would need to be adjusted and set up to get the best out of it.

Not that the lathes were poorly made, they definitely weren't of course, but there would have been just enough human in the manufacturing mix to mean that they'd be unlikely to make two lathes that behaved identically.

Maybe with the likes of Schaublin, Weiler or Hardinge, the outliers would be very rare and the differences between the lathes that went out of the doors of those companies factories would be minor; the lathes would have been very consistent across instances.

But your lathe isn't one of those. It's almost certainly a solid, decently made lathe capable of a fair bit of precision but Taiwanese machine tools, notwithstanding the positives mentioned above were never beautifully made; just well made enough for the likes of us to use. I'd expect there to be at least a similar variation as with the standard production lathes.

Add to that the usage your lathe has experienced in its history and the way you have it set up and the tooling you're using and the fact that steel can mean anything from easy to machine 12L14 to terrifyingly difficult D3 tool steel, all means your question doesn't have an answer that will be of any help for you. :)
 
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No feathers ruffled here. Help us help you, by posting pictures. We usually can see things that you may have missed. We're a helpful group and usually can get you sorted quicker than struggling by yourself. Moving on won't help you, but your continued participation in the conversation might. We try to help people here, so give it a second chance.
Thanks, but my issue is that ya'll are missing my point. Most of what's been posted here is stuff I'm already well aware of. I may not have 40 years experience machining, but I'm not exactly a newb, either. I KNOW that feeds and speeds are more a suggested starting point rather than cast in stone. I know that different tooling and grinds matter, and that MY setup isn't going to produce the same results that YOUR setup might. I'm also not someone that expects to have others just hand me the answers, I do a LOT of research on subjects that interest me before I start asking questions. I'm the guy that reads the manual BEFORE all else fails. Answers to questions I didn't ask has always been a pet peeve of mine. I asked a fairly specific question, and of the 14 or so posts in this thread, I got 2 answers that were on point. I'm really not trying to be a jerk, but I'm also not some dumb lazy kid that can't be bothered to do my own homework. All I was after was a general idea of what folks that actually own one of these machines was able to do with it. Apparently I didn't make that clear. Later.

Dave
 
 
Appreciate the response, but did you actually READ my post? My question wasn't about MY setup, I was asking people that own the same or very similar machines what THEIR setup is. Yeah, experimenting is exactly what I've been doing, with some satisfactory results, and some not so much. This is the only lathe I've owned or run, and I've never had any formal training in machining, so I really don't know what this class of machine is capable of.

So to reiterate and clarify. I'm not looking for a tutorial on how to set up my machine, or how to determine feeds and speeds. I'm looking for info on what folks that own the SAME machine have been able to do. Hope that clears up any confusion, and thanks again.

Dave



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I have a belt drive Taiwan 12 24 "B" model with an adapted 3 HP DC treadmill motor, It was able cut 2.5" axle shaft at about .025-.040 DOC and took the shaft down to just over 1.7" diameter with no major problem- although it was definitely working the machine.

I used and had better luck with carbide cutters ( probably because I am not very skilled at cutting and sharpening HSS yet) pretty stringy hot blue swarf though. Forgot the Spindle RPM but IIRC it was over 400 RPM.

Could not be happier with the accuracy, features, and capabilities and price. For me it is the sweet spot for the space I currently available.
 
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Thanks, but my issue is that ya'll are missing my point. Most of what's been posted here is stuff I'm already well aware of. I may not have 40 years experience machining, but I'm not exactly a newb, either. I KNOW that feeds and speeds are more a suggested starting point rather than cast in stone. I know that different tooling and grinds matter, and that MY setup isn't going to produce the same results that YOUR setup might. I'm also not someone that expects to have others just hand me the answers, I do a LOT of research on subjects that interest me before I start asking questions. I'm the guy that reads the manual BEFORE all else fails. Answers to questions I didn't ask has always been a pet peeve of mine. I asked a fairly specific question, and of the 14 or so posts in this thread, I got 2 answers that were on point. I'm really not trying to be a jerk, but I'm also not some dumb lazy kid that can't be bothered to do my own homework. All I was after was a general idea of what folks that actually own one of these machines was able to do with it. Apparently I didn't make that clear. Later.

Dave
Well Dave you may think you've asked a reasonable question, but you actually haven't. That's because in machining a lot matters in your setup and if your machine is properly adjusted. That's why experienced machinists asked you those questions.

No one thinks you're lazy or stupid. A little testy perhaps, but we all have some of those days.

The answer you are seeking has a wide range of uncertainty, ranging from 0.005" to better than 0.050", all depending on whether your lathe is tight, well adjusted and you are using a good setup. On HM we've seen a lot of smart people in some domains do some suboptimal stuff including setup on their machines. If you are new at some aspects of machining, that's bound to happen. Happened to me too. I've posted quite a few blunders on HM, in the hopes that I'd get some advice. The advice was quite useful to me and helped me sort through a machining problem. The people and staff here are very helpful and want everyone to succeed.

If you'd like some advice here on how to get better results on *your* lathe, than you are currently achieving, please stay. We all can learn from each other.
 
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