Dead chuck

[Starlight Tools]

Use the force, Tony, Use the force.

It is amazing how well a 1/2" impact wrench does at removing chucks that resist all other means of removal.

Use a straight 1/2" hex rod and a 1/2" impact socket, or what I use is a hex socket straight onto the impact and whizz, off she comes.

The use of an allen wrench chucked up and whacked with a hammer is fine if the chuck is not "impacted on" from years of use and abuse.

Most of those keyless shucks do not have rebuild kits for them.

Walter

 

[Tony Wells]

OK Walter. Tomorrow, when I get in from the hospital, I'll use a sawed off piece of 1/2" hex key I have on have for such purposes, and see if I can get it off there. Seems a reasonable method.

Thanks again for the help!

t

 

[GK1918]

Just an update > Im still living with that chuck. I still believe I didnt grow in threre. .....

 

[Tony Wells]

Well, I may resort to my good friend Victor, but that chuck is coming off TODAY!

 

[Starlight Tools]

Just an update > Im still living with that chuck. I still believe I didnt grow in threre. .....

GK

The shaft on your Drill Press is tapered. It has a Jacobs 33 taper.

The chuck has a matching taper, again Jacobs 33

In order to remove that chuck you have to break the hold of the taper. As mentioned earlier, you use a set of chuck removal tools. They are small plates, about 2" x 3" that have a slot down the middle and are tapered up to the end of the slot.

Choose (or make) a set of them that has a slot size closest to the shaft of your drill press.

They are best used in pairs, even though the attached picture only shows one being used, insert one from each side, with the tapered sides together.

Lock the spindle Quill so it can not move.

Insert one wedge on each side of the drill press shaft, so that one edge presses against the chuck and the other edge presses against the quill. NB: you may have to put a spacer in. If there is a step in the spindle that is even better as then you are pressing against the shaft itself.

whack away. best if you have the coordination to use two hammers, one on each wedge.

It is best to have a chunk of board covering your drill press table so that it is not hit by the falling chuck.

Oh and if the PO of the drill press had a problem with the chuck falling off, he/she may have used locktite to hold the chuck onto the taper. In that case, you may need to head the body of the chuck to break the bond of the locktite.

Let me know how it goes

Walter

 

[Tony Wells]

Just to add a little to Walter's post, I've used a pair of those wedges in two ways. I have used a clamp to force them together, and I have used a 4 b hammer just to back up one of the wedges. Then smack the other side. The 4 lb seems to have enough inertia to support the hammering.

 

[Tony Wells]

Well, this is getting interesting. No dice on the impact, but apparently there is a little known risk involving part number 38 on the exploded view. I ended up washing most of the chuck off with a torch, and even with things pretty warm, it still would not turn loose. So, the thought occurred to me to possible machine away the remains, which would of course require dissassembly of the front end. There I find that part 38 has three small round pins, or lugs of sorts, that ordinarily seat in holes in the aluminum gear housing. Somewhere during all the force I applied, these three pins tore out of the shallow holes they were seated in. This appears to be some sort of anti-rotation method, which is now compromised.

So now, in addition to needing a chuck, which I still intend to remove if the threads aren't galled, which I am beginning to wonder, I will need the front gear housing. Tomorrow, I'll wash it all up and see if it's repairable. Maybe I should hunt a donor with a bad motor. Have any suggestions, Walter?