Dead chuck

[Tony Wells]

That's one reason I grimace when I see guys power spin the chuck down onto the bit. I might do it lightly to get close to the bit size, but then I close it by hand making sure it is indeed on the flats. I have experienced what you are talking about, David.

 

[Starlight Tools]

Tony

Depending on the model number of your Millwaukee drill, there should be a hex shaft right behind the chuck. This is held from turning in service jig that is held in a vise. It is a plate about 3/16" thick with two slots cut in it, You of course will only need one slot, the size that matches your drill.

This allows you to keep the spindle statioanary and prevents damage to the internal gearing of the drill.

Now you can actually use some torque and loosen off the chuck, The lock screw was left hand and the chuck will be right hand. If the chuck is b
"boogered" anyways, you can use a pipe wrench or WHU, If you can get the chuck to close on a hex socket, then use an impact wrench. On Key type chucks we have a special hex fixture that fits over the nose of the chuck and has a pin which seats in the ckuck key hole.

Walter

 

[Tony Wells]

Walter, I'll get the drill back out of the cabinet and have a look. Seems like you may have it right.There may be a hex to grab. I'll make a fixture to slide it into so I can put some force on it. Perhaps a little warmth as well. I refuse to be defeated, especially by a free drill.

 

[Starlight Tools]

Tony

This is what I do for a living, repair power tools. I am a Milwaukee authorized repair centre to boot. That jig I showed is actually a Milwaukee Jig that as a service centre we have the option to get from Milwaukee.

If you get me the catalogue number and serial number, I can refine the selection.

Walter

 

[Tony Wells]

Walter, I'd appreciate that. Tomorrow I work about 2 hours from home, so if I don't have time or forget, I'll get the details when I get home in the evening. I have to install some security hardware at a hospital undergoing a remodel, and they have an open house this week, so there is no telling what else the General Contractor will find that hasn't been done. We tend to catch all the loose ends that no one seems to know just which company is responsible for. I know we have some CATV wiring to finish if the cable company has terminated the RG-500 in the comm closet....but I stray.

I'll get the details tomorrow, Walter.

Thanks again.

 

[Tony Wells]

Walter, it is Cat No 0302-20 SN 084A504420208


See what you can dig up on that one, please.

thanks,

t

 

[Starlight Tools]

Tony

Here is the parts breakdown for that drill

Walter

 

[Tony Wells]

Looks like there is a hex on part number 27 in the illustration. There is a ring (pn 25) that seems to block access to it. I can't see the hex, at any rate.

Found a replacement chuck for $65, so they may have come down a bit. Might go ahead and fix it. Got any hints for getting to the hex?

 

[Starlight Tools]

I sell a replacement Jacobs Keyless chuck for that drill for $42.99 this is not the Milwaukee chuck, but is as good or better. You could even replace with Keyed chuck if you want, just need one with 1/2-20 thread mounts. This is a very common chuck mounting thread, not like Milwaukee's other chucks which are 5/8-16

OK so looked at the 0300-20 that I have in stock and yes it is not possible to get at the hex portion.

In that case, I would start by (after removing the left threaded lock bolt that is) put a hex socket in the chuck and tighten it the best I could, even if only two jaws move and it is off centered, as long as it is tight. Then use an impact wrench and give it a whack. Gears are pretty robust and I have never broken any yet doing this.

If that does not work, then it is either, take a hacksaw or zip-cut to the boogered chuck and remove it in pieces, or remove the screws that hold the gearbox and grab the spindle shaft from the rear with split lock type clamp.

I usually go the first route, cut/break off the outer collar, remove any and all parts around and jaws. When you are left with just the chuck body cut it off just before the end of the spindle, you do not want to shorten the spindle! now cut alongside the threads of the spindle, again you do not want to cut into the threads. Flip 180 and cut off the other side. now you have two opposing flats that you can get a crescent wrench on. Whack the end of the crescent with dead blow hammer 9remeber right hand thread), If it still does not loosen then carefully grind a flat side until the threads just start to appear. Grip the two flats in the vise and hit just above the threads with a cold chisel and it should separate and then just slide off.

Walter

 

[Tony Wells]

Well, I've already tried chucking up a 1/2" long arm hex key and whacking it pretty good (after removing the LH screw), and no good. I may just start to cut it off. I had thought at one time, when the best price I found was $105 for a replacement chuck, to try to get a rebuild kit, but never followed through. I probably couldn't have gotten it to break down then either.

I appreciate the tips, and will let you know how it goes. In general, I have no problems with a good quality keyed chuck on bigger drill motors.