D-bit Tool Cutter Grinder R8 to 5C work head conversion

[Illinoyance]

I use enough stickout that there is no problem grinding the collet nut. I sometimes use an ER16 collet chuck for smaller drills..

 

[Lucas E]

I've considered getting a 5C to ER 32 chuck to grind drill bits in my shars unit. Has anyone had any success with this, or is the stickout too much?

 

[woodchucker]

I've considered getting a 5C to ER 32 chuck to grind drill bits in my shars unit. Has anyone had any success with this, or is the stickout too much?

I have a 5c to Er32 for my spindexer.. I wanted to use it on my surface grinder.. it really adds to the stickout tremendously.
Now going to get 5c as needed.

 

[Illinoyance]

Lucas,
I have both ER32 and ER16 chucks that I can use on my D-bit grinder. For smaller drills I use the ER16. Stickout has not been a problem.

 

[John O]

"The only reason I didn't stick it directly into the TCG & test motion clearance is that the set screw inside the TCG holder is proud"
Could you grind the set screw down with a dremel?

 

[Illinoyance]

I dismantled the work head and removed the set screw. Attacking it with a Dremel would be a good alternative. As I remember on my grinder the width of the screw was s much a problem as the projection. The other approach is to modify the key ways in the collets.

 

[Larry$]

Since we are all "machinists" here, why not make something that does what you want?

 

[Illinoyance]

I did.

 

[petertha]

I just realized something. My (Accusize) spindle arbor measures 0.75" OD and that (kinda) corresponds to the supplied AO grit wheel & aluminum cup diamond wheels that came with. My manual says wheels are 100x25x20mm wheel. 20mm = 0.787. Hmm... that's not 0.750" The wheel holes are not super accurate. The AO wheel fits like it should. the aluminum cup diamond wheels are tight slip fit or slightly too tight, which is another project I guess. The Accusize web site isn't any clearer on this issue even though the wheels can be purchased separately, no defined ID.

To you Shars TCG owners, from what I can tell of the Shars website & PDF manual the wheels are 1.25" hole ID (pics attached). If this is correct, has this always been the case of Shars machines? I wonder why the manufacturers departed in this regard. Is one (ID hole) style of wheel more prevalent than the other? Now that maybe explains the Shars adapter I see & people making their own combination wrench. Is that what thats about? I couldn't figure out why I would need to be undoing the hex bolt at the end of the shaft. My TCG included a steel spacer washer & threaded steel nut with the 2-pin wrench holes in end. Looks like the wheels just go over the plain part of the spindle.

*edit* maybe I have the Shars wrong? Another picture shows 2 kinds of adapters, 0.75" & 1.25"

 

[petertha]

I dismantled the work head and removed the set screw. Attacking it with a Dremel would be a good alternative. As I remember on my grinder the width of the screw was s much a problem as the projection. The other approach is to modify the key ways in the collets.

@Illinoyance I'll attach a picture when I offload my camera, but when I pulled the barrel from the other end mill flute attachment I could see where they installed a similar set screw collet key. It looks like they drilled/tapped a hole in the barrel, set it in with some Locktite & ground the proud excess off the OD... plus a little extra divot for good measure. Probably for oil retention haha. So I suspect the work head barrel will be similar set screw installation.

When you dismantled your head, did you encounter any issues worth noting? I may have to go this route, it doesn't look like I can get in there that deep with a Dremel stone even with shank extended. Maybe because the R8 is a bit longer or where they positioned it.