Carbide insert tooling and brands for new hobby lathe/mill

[Karl A]

HSS is great but you do have to learn to grind them. In the meantime you still need to learn to use your lathe and carbide tools are not a bad way to start. My usual recommendation is to use GOOD (Kennametal, Micro 100) brazed carbide tools first while you learn to grind HSS. If you prefer inserted tools then either go with AR Warner HSS inserts or buy David's book and learn which carbide tools you should get. ...

David's book contains tables of recommended indexable tooling for basic, intermediate, and advanced level projects. I think that these tables can be useful for HSS tools as well, as many of the tools that David lists have HSS analogs. For example,
- 80° rhombus insert with its various turning/facing toolholders is equivalent to tangential/diamond tools in HSS.
- 55° diamond insert in a RH turning/facing toolholder is equivalent to the a RH knife tool in HSS.
Thus the tables can provide guidance on how to prioritize grinding the various HSS tools.

 

[mac1911]

Nice, as i dig deeper into using the machine it will dictate how much I want to jump in.
Right now im using my Automotive Repair skills to get this thing at least as close to possible as useable as I can. There was not a bolt or screw ( except the power switch cover plate) that was not loose, half stripped and a few missing. I know from my trade cheap is generally not good. Although you dont need snap on to get things done.
Im in the process still of finding things loose , mis adjusted and not aligned. Heck even the 2 bolts holding the gear head to the bef ways where not tight!
My lathe lives with all my orher stuff in a 12x16 shed no power so its not easy .
So finding some cutting tools that meet my current demand and machines limits. Rpm is limitted from 250 to 1600
I have not even got to the mill head yet and Im sure that has its own issues.

 

[MrWhoopee]

It seems like this question comes up in one form or another every week. Suggest you start with a tooling assortment like this off eBay or Aliexpress, either 10 or 12mm shanks.

3Pcs Wall Mount Stand Bracket For Blink XT XT2 Security Camera Indoor & Outdoor | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 3Pcs Wall Mount Stand Bracket For Blink XT XT2 Security Camera Indoor & Outdoor at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832814518296.html

I have purchased a lot of this stuff, none of it is junk. I always shop for the cheapest most economical tools I can find, if there was garbage I would have found it. The tools are well made and hardened. Buy a pack of each of the inserts while you're at it. They may not be as good as the name brands, but at 1/10 the price they are plenty good enough.

Avoid this type

 

[mac1911]

It seems like this question comes up in one form or another every week. Suggest you start with a tooling assortment like this off eBay or Aliexpress, either 10 or 12mm shanks.

3Pcs Wall Mount Stand Bracket For Blink XT XT2 Security Camera Indoor & Outdoor | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 3Pcs Wall Mount Stand Bracket For Blink XT XT2 Security Camera Indoor & Outdoor at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832814518296.html

I have purchased a lot of this stuff, none of it is junk. I always shop for the cheapest most economical tools I can find, if there was garbage I would have found it. The tools are well made and hardened. Buy a pack of each of the inserts while you're at it. They may not be as good as the name brands, but at 1/10 the price they are plenty good enough.

Avoid this type
View attachment 428019

Thanks , love the “avoid” tip I think this is helpful.
Well today I managed to get my first project done with the old smithy. Even the 30 yr old or so worn Brazed Carbide did well enough to get the new tool post mounting solution under way.
The Mill is still not useable or the flimsy drill press vise it came with to attempt modifying the compound. So for now this bushing takes up some slop from the 10mm bolt to the 14 mm hole. I plan on making one of these next.

Quick Change Toolpost Adapter Bolt (Chicago Bolt) - All 1220 Series M1

This Chicago Bolt secures the body of your quick change toolpost to your compound angle toolpost base. The hollow bolt with internal threads, slips into the body of your compound angle toolpost and fastens to the post of the compound angle toolpost. This part is included with the purchase of a...

smithy.com

 

[WobblyHand]

Thanks , love the “avoid” tip I think this is helpful.
Well today I managed to get my first project done with the old smithy. Even the 30 yr old or so worn Brazed Carbide did well enough to get the new tool post mounting solution under way.
The Mill is still not useable or the flimsy drill press vise it came with to attempt modifying the compound. So for now this bushing takes up some slop from the 10mm bolt to the 14 mm hole. I plan on making one of these next.

Quick Change Toolpost Adapter Bolt (Chicago Bolt) - All 1220 Series M1

This Chicago Bolt secures the body of your quick change toolpost to your compound angle toolpost base. The hollow bolt with internal threads, slips into the body of your compound angle toolpost and fastens to the post of the compound angle toolpost. This part is included with the purchase of a...

smithy.com

View attachment 428024View attachment 428025

Is there a recess in the Bostar for that bushing? The wide part of the bushing? The reason I ask that, is the bushing seems to be proud of the top of the compound. Usually that is not such a good thing. I think you want the Bostar to bottom on the compound body to give you maximum resistance to rotation under machining load. If the tool post bottoms on the bushing you won't have as much resistance to rotation. More experienced people, please correct me if I am misinformed.

 

[mac1911]

Is there a recess in the Bostar for that bushing? The wide part of the bushing? The reason I ask that, is the bushing seems to be proud of the top of the compound. Usually that is not such a good thing. I think you want the Bostar to bottom on the compound body to give you maximum resistance to rotation under machining load. If the tool post bottoms on the bushing you won't have as much resistance to rotation. More experienced people, please correct me if I am misinformed.

The bushing sits below the surface of the compound I just did not seat it all the way , the small portion fits snug in the Bostar tool post mounting hole. The Chicago nut will be a 1/4” or so from the top of the bushing.
I thought this would be the quickest solution with out altering the original mounting . Its just a T bolt coming up through the compound. Theres not much material there to tap for the Bostarv14mm post.
Bostar gives you the 14mm bolt and a threaded plate to machine to fit. The dove tail slot on other styles of compound mounting

 

[WobblyHand]

The bushing sits below the surface of the compound , the small portion fits snug in the Bostar tool post mounting hole.

Couldn't quite tell from the picture. Good. It should work out well for you.

 

[mac1911]

Couldn't quite tell from the picture. Good. It should work out well for you.

Now to make the Chicago bolt