bullet casting

Gas checks are used on cast bullets that are designed for them. The cast bullets for gas checks have a rebate on the base and the gas checks look like a small shallow copper cup. The gas checks are placed on the bullets by hand and then run through a lubrisizer. RCBS, Lyman, and Saeco are three popular brands of lubrisizers. The Lyman and RCBS are very similar. The tip on getting a Lyman cast bullet handbook is worth following. In my personal experience plain base cast bullets are more accurate than gas checks if they are carefully made. You are getting into a hobby that will keep you learning for a long time.
Elmo
 
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Gas checks are used on cast bullets that are designed for them. The cast bullets for gas checks have a rebate on the base and the gas checks look like a small shallow copper cup. The gas checks are placed on the bullets by hand and then run through a lubrisizer. RCBS, Lyman, and Saeco are three popular brands of lubrisizers. The Lyman and RCBS are very similar. The tip on getting a Lyman cast bullet handbook is worth following. In my personal experience plain base cast bullets are more accurate than gas checks if they are carefully made. You are getting into a hobby that will keep you learning for a long time.
Elmo
i have a lee's book comming i got off of ebay last night, ty elmo mac:))
 
Mac, Your RCBS dies will work for loading cast bullets. You will need a lubrisizer to size and lube your cast bullets. The lubrisizer will require a sizing die for it to size the bullet to the size your barrel needs. The lubrisizer can also apply the gas check to the bullet if you use a mould that requires a gas check. Many moulds and bullets do not require or need a gas check. The Lyman Cast Bullet book is a good start. Also make sure you use a bullet alloy compatable for your load.
Bobby
 
Tha website is a generic placeholder with info.

The site is castboolits.gunloads.com

The gascheck is a copper plate that crimps on the bottom of the cast bullet as it is being sized to the thousandth and lube is applied to the grooves in the bullet. Your magnum handgun bullets and a lot of the rifle bullets are gaschecked. Gaschecked lead bullets are driven quite fast these days, in excess of 2000 fps.
 
Mac , since you don't specify what caliber you're shooting, you have us a little in the dark on your needs.If you aren't shooting pistol above about 1200 fps you probably won't need gas checks.Regardless, you have already been informed the mold(s) for a gas check

bullet is different at the base to accept a gas check. By the way gas checks will add about $.04 for each bullet. You also don't mention what alloy you are using which comes in to play.If you would like to save a few bucks ( more like $200 for a Lyman 4500 lube sizer

and one sizer die) I would recommend buying Lee 6 bullet molds (and get the handles) that use tumble lube . Lee also sells a much less costly sizer for all popular calibers at Lee Factory Sales( https://fsreloading.com/ ). Another site that has a lot of usable info is LA Shooters Club
( http://www.lasc.us/ ).

If you are loading straight ammo( .380,9mm,40 S&W, or .45 ACP you will need a third die that taper crimps rather than folding the crimp which is normal in two die sets.Lee is cheapest on them too at the FS site above.

hi guys, could use some help, ive been reloading brass for 15 yrs and bought all my stuff premade caseings bullets etc, never used gas checks on my bullets , now i am wanting to cast my own bullets and they are calling for gas checks, i hopeing the bullets that i was useing was install at factory cause i didnt put any on, now the next question is how do i install these on my cast bullets after they are made ty much mac:))
 
Mac, Your RCBS dies will work for loading cast bullets. You will need a lubrisizer to size and lube your cast bullets. The lubrisizer will require a sizing die for it to size the bullet to the size your barrel needs. The lubrisizer can also apply the gas check to the bullet if you use a mould that requires a gas check. Many moulds and bullets do not require or need a gas check. The Lyman Cast Bullet book is a good start. Also make sure you use a bullet alloy compatable for your load.
Bobby
thank you bobby thats a load off my mind thought i was going to have to buy another press, i have a progressive 2000 and then a pacific single stage press which i will use for sizeing. ty bobby mac:))
 
Mac , since you don't specify what caliber you're shooting, you have us a little in the dark on your needs.If you aren't shooting pistol above about 1200 fps you probably won't need gas checks.Regardless, you have already been informed the mold(s) for a gas check

bullet is different at the base to accept a gas check. By the way gas checks will add about $.04 for each bullet. You also don't mention what alloy you are using which comes in to play.If you would like to save a few bucks ( more like $200 for a Lyman 4500 lube sizer

and one sizer die) I would recommend buying Lee 6 bullet molds (and get the handles) that use tumble lube . Lee also sells a much less costly sizer for all popular calibers at Lee Factory Sales( https://fsreloading.com/ ). Another site that has a lot of usable info is LA Shooters Club
( http://www.lasc.us/ ).

If you are loading straight ammo( .380,9mm,40 S&W, or .45 ACP you will need a third die that taper crimps rather than folding the crimp which is normal in two die sets.Lee is cheapest on them too at the FS site above.
sorry for not putting all the info, all rifle, 3030,308,3006, 303 brit, 6.5x55 swede, moison nagant.
 
Have a look at this web site http://www.freechex.net/
They have an easy to make tool that punches out gas checks from aluminum soda cans.
Cast lead bullets will require a gas check when pushed to speeds over 1200 fps. You can get away without them if you keep the velocity down and use harder lead alloys.
The mold for a gas check style bullet is different (as mentioned in other replies) than a regular bullet mold.
I regularly push my .357mag revolver loads (without gas check) past the 1200 fps point with no ill effect other than some mild lead fouling of the rifling grooves.
A "Lewis Lead Remover" from Brownells.com is great for removing lead fouling. Check out the video of it at http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx
This Lewis Lead Remover really works well. When I pull it through a heavily fouled barrel, long slivers of lead come rotating out of the muzzle just ahead of the lead remover patch.
 
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