Brought home a used G0704 to get my feet wet...

I'd use HSS for a fly cutter rather than inserts but that's me. Pick up some 5/16" or 3/8" HSS lathe tool blanks, whichever you get a better deal on. You only really need a couple of blanks. Sometimes buying 5 is better cost per blank. (By the box is even better, but save your cash for now, you'll need it later.) I'd do the HSS before buying ground inserts (for aluminum), at least at this point of your milling adventure. Ordinary HSS or M2 HSS is fine.

CME Tools has lathe tool blanks relatively cheap. For 5/16" x 2.5" about $1 each for HSS. Don't know how cheap their shipping is these days, nor if they have a minimum buy. Worth checking out.
https://cme-tools.com/collections/t...nd-cobalt-square-tool-bits?variant=5628074371 At that price, you can afford to practice to your heart's content.
 
Mr Mike said:
Hello... I figured it might be wise to ask before I bought one of those... Thanks Mike.



Hello you..
The 2" fly cutter I bought uses Inserts, should I pick up some HSS tool bits just in case, also I've read many times that people have good success using aluminum cutting inserts for steel because they are sharper..?
Thanks, Mike.
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The sharper the cutter the less tool pressure but I find that I get a better finish with a slight radius. I would use it with the insert tool which came with it.
 
WobblyHand said:
I'd use HSS for a fly cutter rather than inserts but that's me. Pick up some 5/16" or 3/8" HSS lathe tool blanks, whichever you get a better deal on. You only really need a couple of blanks. Sometimes buying 5 is better cost per blank. (By the box is even better, but save your cash for now, you'll need it later.) I'd do the HSS before buying ground inserts (for aluminum), at least at this point of your milling adventure. Ordinary HSS or M2 HSS is fine.

CME Tools has lathe tool blanks relatively cheap. For 5/16" x 2.5" about $1 each for HSS. Don't know how cheap their shipping is these days, nor if they have a minimum buy. Worth checking out.
https://cme-tools.com/collections/t...nd-cobalt-square-tool-bits?variant=5628074371 At that price, you can afford to practice to your heart's content.
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Wow you aint kidding, I have the 1/2" X 1/2" X 4" R8 fly Cutter already purchased, CME sells the HSS blanks for $2.50 a pop... 4 with shipping is would be $19.45 - Amazing...

Thanks for heads up... MIke.
 
verbotenwhisky said:
The sharper the cutter the less tool pressure but I find that I get a better finish with a slight radius. I would use it with the insert tool which came with it.
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I watched this down to earth gentleman yesterday, he grinds a radius on his HSS fly cutter bits, Near mirror finish. Shows a mock up on how he grinds them at the end of the video.

 
Surface finish (if it's not chattering) is a function of the feed/step over distance and the tool radius. Imagine making grooves with your tool. Large radius means a wide bottom groove, which is closer to flat. Bring the grooves closer to each other and it also gets flatter: the peaks between the grooves end up shorter.

Really large radius tends to chatter, so there's a tradeoff.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
The column is back together and installed. Once the table is on I can check for 90° to the table, I don't know what's acceptable through the whole Z range motion top to bottom across X, the manual doesn't state it. Tramming the column perpendicular to the table may be needed because the column bolts onto the rear of the base and is not pinned.

About a 1/2 inch of machined area below the column dovetail overlaps the base, the Hex bolts holding the column to the base are fully tightened - as long as the column Z slide isn't off by more than 1/16" through its travel perpendicular to the table, I'll probably just leave it.

Mill Column To Base.jpg
Mill Column.jpg
Next up is the table...
 
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Mr Mike said:
The column is back together and installed. Once the table is on I can check for 90° to the table, I don't know what's acceptable through the whole Z range motion top to bottom across X, the manual doesn't state it. Tramming the column perpendicular to the table may be needed because the column bolts onto the rear of the base and is not pinned.

About a 1/2 inch of machined area below the column dovetail overlaps the base, the Hex bolts holding the column to the base are fully tightened - as long as the column Z slide isn't off by more than 1/16" through its travel perpendicular to the table, I'll probably just leave it.

View attachment 500836
View attachment 500798
Next up is the table...
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Mike, you'll defiantly want to square everything up, that may require some shims. you'll do that with the mill assembled, David P Best has an extremely good video outlining how to do this, very helpful.
 
Hello all... Just verifying Mill lube options.

I am currently installing the saddle back to the base of the Mill, The previous owner of the Mill used Lithium grease on everything... The manual says to have both Grease & Oil on hand but not really where to apply it. I live in the dusty dry environment of las Vegas, My thinking is grease is just liquid sandpaper on open air surfaces like ways but great for semi enclosed area like gears and bearings...

But what about the lead screws..? --> Im thinking oil is the right choice here, but figured I'd better ask just in case.

Thanks Mike.

Lol just have to admire the questionable machining and paint job on this saddle. :)
Saddle.jpg
 
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