Bridgeport Series II Milling Machine

[protolancer]

I wound up with a Series 1 Bridgeport from a local machine shop many years ago.



I see yours came with the Kwik-Switch Taper (Universal Engineering) spindle too. I'd love to be able to change the spindle to an R8 because tool holds of the Kwik-Switch kind are hard to find.



I did find more info on them. http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html

Bernd

 

[Manual Artisan]

Looks nice- I presume you want to get a RPC to power it?
That would allow keeping all the electrics as is

I plan on getting a phase perfect, the PTE010 is the plan at the moment!

 

[Manual Artisan]

I wound up with a Series 1 Bridgeport from a local machine shop many years ago.

View attachment 455171 View attachment 455172

I see yours came with the Kwik-Switch Taper (Universal Engineering) spindle too. I'd love to be able to change the spindle to an R8 because tool holds of the Kwik-Switch kind are hard to find.

View attachment 455173

I did find more info on them. http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html

Bernd

I was literally just fiddling around with this last night!!! Thank you! Yeah, I have tool holders that I don't believe will work for this and I'm trying to figure out what to do..

 

[Manual Artisan]

I wound up with a Series 1 Bridgeport from a local machine shop many years ago.

View attachment 455171 View attachment 455172

I see yours came with the Kwik-Switch Taper (Universal Engineering) spindle too. I'd love to be able to change the spindle to an R8 because tool holds of the Kwik-Switch kind are hard to find.

View attachment 455173

I did find more info on them. http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html

Bernd

Update, mine appears to have an NMTB adapter style Kwik change, so I am able to use my tool holders that are the old NMTB style.

 

[markba633csi]

I would keep the kwik switch system- it's beefy. R8 would be a step down IMO

 

[protolancer]

I would keep the kwik switch system- it's beefy. R8 would be a step down IMO

That's what I did. Kept the Kwik Switch holders. I did try to make one myself and came close but not close enough for use. I'm looking for a KwiK Switch that has a ER collet adapter for more versatility. I didn't get a big selection if the Kwick Switch collets with the machine.

Bernd

 

[protolancer]

I plan on getting a phase perfect, the PTE010 is the plan at the moment!

I started out with a rotary converter a guy built for me. I then switch to a static converter. When I moved the mill to it's final resting spot I accidently pulled out a wire in the reversing switch on the head of the mill and didn't realize it. When I hooked the rotary up to it, it wouldn't run. I thought the rotary had given out and I purchased a static converter. The picture below shows the rotary and mill in there new position. Note the head is twisted around with the reversing switch to the right of the head. Go that far around and you pull on the wires going from the reversing switch to the motor wire box. Lesson learned, either longer wires or don't turn the head that far.

Needed an adult beverage after that move. <LOL>

Bernd

 

[Manual Artisan]

Here's just an update, got out and started to clean it off more with scotch-brite, PB, and WD40.

My way lubrication system doesn't appear to have a manual pump handle (the knurled tube looking object on the top left will not move up and down when I tried).

 

[pontiac428]

The knurled knob is the precharge as well as the volume adjustment. You lift up on the knob once before starting the machine. At some points in the cycle, it won't pull up, has something to do with where it is in its stroke, but that's the idea. I have a Showa, not a Bijur, but I think they're all about the same.

I have Lagun's answer to the BP Series 2, and I wouldn't trade it for the world. You got some real equipment there, man!