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How to tram junk
- Thread starter Tb1988
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,725
It is necessary to get all the high spots stoned down until you have a planar surface. Disregard the divots because they won't interfere with establishing a true planar mounting surface.
An impact ding will not only create a depression/divot, but will also displace some material to leave a raised area/ring adjacent. A drill point can do the same thing. All those high areas have to be removed.
After stoning the high spots down, if the table surface is so pockmarked it's too hard to read an indicator, you'll want to use a surrogate surface to run the indicator contact point on. Any precision flat and parallel piece will do. A smaller piece will have to be moved around, along with the indicator contact point. Two wide, long parallels or anything(s) known to be flat and parallel and will span the tram area will be easier.
Everybody has given the same basic advice. Each of us just says it a little differently.
An impact ding will not only create a depression/divot, but will also displace some material to leave a raised area/ring adjacent. A drill point can do the same thing. All those high areas have to be removed.
After stoning the high spots down, if the table surface is so pockmarked it's too hard to read an indicator, you'll want to use a surrogate surface to run the indicator contact point on. Any precision flat and parallel piece will do. A smaller piece will have to be moved around, along with the indicator contact point. Two wide, long parallels or anything(s) known to be flat and parallel and will span the tram area will be easier.
Everybody has given the same basic advice. Each of us just says it a little differently.
I'd remove the vise, give both the table and vise a good going over with scotch brite (looks like there's some corrosion / barn dust / ??? coating - I'd get that off before stoning.) The table has definitely been "loved", but it's still probably very usable (after stoning). Even the most important part of your vise jaws look workable - at least to start with.
I'd definitely say High School shop class... I have a B&S #5 vise that doesn't look a whole lot better than that, that's still doing good work on my shaper.
GsT
I'd definitely say High School shop class... I have a B&S #5 vise that doesn't look a whole lot better than that, that's still doing good work on my shaper.
GsT
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,725
HaHaHa. You posted the pictures while I was writing my previous post.
Yep, get the vise off (Taps playing in the background) and clean the table well before trying to stone.
I suspect you'll find that all the grease and grime helped protect the table somewhat.
Hopefully the table below the vice didn't suffer the similar damage as the vice has.
Yep, get the vise off (Taps playing in the background) and clean the table well before trying to stone.
I suspect you'll find that all the grease and grime helped protect the table somewhat.
Hopefully the table below the vice didn't suffer the similar damage as the vice has.
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2016
- Messages
- 13,362
Buff ! LOL , I'm not so sure about this one though . The table really doesn't look too bad . A burr buster stone and some elbow grease would perty it up nicely .
