Box of Kwik Switch holders that came with mill

Thank you kindly Brino! My search was for Kwik Switch but I use an off-brand search engine.
Your results are just what the doctor ordered. :beer:
 
Drawbar threads must be for something else. If memory serves they are locked in place with a cover which remains on the spindle. [ Just remembered, the cover locks open when you remove a tool. When you insert the next one it releases the cover which snaps shut locking the tool in the taper. ] Use a spanner to loosen the cover/cap. Their literature says the tool sockets are machined offset from center to accommodate the set screw pressure. Treasure them, set each one up with its own tool, Should lyou h ave CNC you can establish each tool's length and diameter and record it in the software.
 
Don't see an adapter head or a drawbar head in the pictures. They are available new. An adapter is about 650$, new price, not sure on the drawbar type. Quick estimate from the photos, is that you've got somewhere around 5-6K$ worth of tool heads at evilbay average prices.
 
The thread that you are referring to as a "draw bar" thread is not. The set screw down in the thread is used for an adjustment for setting the height of your cutting tool in the holder. Beware, the thread maybe left handed! I had a few straight shank holders that held "Acura Flex" collets, which you have several holders shown in your pictures. Somewhere in my collections of stuff, I have a old Universal Engineering catalog showing all of the different holding systems that they made including the "Kwik-Switch" tooling.

Don't toss any of it or sell any of it off. You will need all of it for your mill soon!
 
Things are starting to make sense- thank you, gentlemen. Brino's links, a bunch more PDFs, and these knowledge bombs delivered in here have me feeling almost knowledgeable enough to break something, and soon!
The cutting table went out the shop door yesterday and the milling machine goes in next to the lathe today. Maybe tomorrow I'll work up the energy and the courage to insert a tool.
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Hi Mike , welcome, you did good on the mill buy . I'm one of the WD40 haters when used as protecting. It's only claim to fame is a water displaced for metal. I've done a bit of gunsmithing over the years and a beautiful Browning barrel came in rusty top to bottom some on the choke inside. Why cleaned and stored with wd40. Admitted it was for a year in the closet. If it had been rubbed down with oil it wouldn't have needed more then a wipe down. The bore cleaned up easy but the bluing took time to get back to the deep bluing it had. If you use your tooling it won't rust but if try storing it please oil it up and cover with an oily rag. I like gear oil it sticks and stays .
 
@Mikebr5
I'd still like to see some "full view" pictures of that mill........
-brino
 
brino said:
@Mikebr5
I'd still like to see some "full view" pictures of that mill........
-brino
Click to expand...
I will do it sir! In the process of moving the mill inside I had to move about 10 tons of other stuff, including a diesel fuel tank. I wasn't thrilled about slinging a tank with 175 sloshing gallons in it, so was topping off machines with a manual pump and the pump "died". Weirdest thing... Pumped 10 gallons fine, came back in and only pumped air! Checked the depth in the tank and my intake was well below.
So this morning I took the whole thing apart right down to the springs and pins. Nothing... Must have been as simple as a joint leaking on the suction side, but there were no bubbles for those 1st 10 gallons.

Now I await 4 hours for Form-A-Gasket to cure.
 
Too often one thing does lead to another......be careful with all those moves and we'll be here when you can post some pics.
Thanks,
-brino
 
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