Bluing or black oxiding your custom made tools?

[gregc]

I have been told the hot processes are far better (deeper penetration) Parkerizing is different as the surface contains phosphorous unlike bluing.


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[gregc]

None of the processes work well if the steel has a large non Fe component like nickel or cobalt. For these cases it seems that plating something Nickel may be better (like stainless). Any recommendations for these cases?


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[4GSR]

None of the processes work well if the steel has a large non Fe component like nickel or cobalt. For these cases it seems that plating something Nickel may be better (like stainless). Any recommendations for these cases?


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I disagree with this statement.

Higher nickel, chromium, makes it more difficult to get blackening.
Higher iron based materials, like cast irons, low carbon steels, blacken with a much deeper darker color.
Any true parkerizing process is heated to at least 190 degree F for best results.

Ken

 

[Alan H.]

Here are a couple of pieces I blued in the last few days with Brownells Oxpho-Blue. As you know this a cold process. Cleaned the parts with brake parts cleaner and then alcohol before the coating.

The slotting saw arbor I made (the screw is as supplied):


An indicator clamping bar for a BXA tool holder:

 

[darkzero]

I also now use Caswell's "Black Oxide" kit. It's not actually a black oxide kit, it's a cold blue process also.

I've used Brownells Dicropan T4 in liquid & gel, Brownells Formula 44/40, Birchwood Perma Blue & Precision Brand Tool Black. I used to use the Dicropan the most but I like the Formula 44/40 better but it's expensive. I never got good results with the Precision Brand Tool Black. Dicropan would usually give me a glossy like black finish & Formula 44/40 would usually give me a deep flat black finish. I've heard the Oxpho-Blue works well but I never got around to trying any.

I use Caswell's blackener for stainless & liked it so I decided to try one of their steel blackeners. I'm sold on their Black Oxide formula & their sealer to go with it makes a really big difference. I get more consistent & deeper black than I have ever got using other products.

It might seem expensive initially but it really is not. Their black oxide solution is concetrated. You mix 1 part of the solution to something like 9 parts of water. So 1 pint will make over 1 gal of solution. Way cheaper than any of the other gun blues out there & it works really well. Withbthe others, sometimes I would have to heat the part to get better results, not with the Caswell stuff though. And again, I really like the sealer.

I can snap some photos & post them if you would like to see.

 

[Alan H.]

Okay Will, show us those photos! Do you have any photos of before and after the "sealer"? Doesn't it appear a bit chalky before you put the sealer on?

Here's a snippet from the MSDS for the sealer. From this we see the sealer is a mixture of ~80% mineral spirits and some mineral oil. I am assuming that the mineral spirits dilute the oil adequately to get it into the pores and then the the spirits evaporate. (Stoddard solvent = mineral spirits)

 

[darkzero]

It never occured to me to look up what the sealer was, usually I'm curious about things like this too & look it up. Funny cause Caswell even includes the MSDS with all their products & I never even looked at it. Should be easy enough to make your own batch if you wanted to.

Mineral spirits & mineral oil makes sense though as the sealer does "dry off". I don't get flash rusting with it when I use it & it makes the finish more uniform. In the past I just used what I had laying around, WD40, way oil, machine oil, etc.

Well I snapped some pics with my phone. I remember these 2 parts to look darker when I did them. I guess after the sealer dries they get lighter. These are just mild steel.

(Adapter piece)





Here's my tool post wrench (middle).



As you can see the Caswell stuff is a flat finish rather than glossy. I did not get a chalky look before the sealer. Depending on the alloy I would get a chalky finish with Formula 44/40.

I don't have any photos before sealer. I need to redo the handle on one of my wrenches that came out very blotchy with Dicropan, I'll snap some pics of it when I do before I dunk in the sealer.

 

[Zamfir]

I am gonna need to come back to this thread! nice information!! and love the pictures of different results!