AXA-8 am I setting this up right?

[RJSakowski]

Refresh my memory, Do you have the G0602? If so, my distance from the spindle centerline to the compound is approximately. .925" (somewhere, I have more accurate value).

 

[WobblyHand]

I have the G0752Z, which should be nearly the same as the G0602.

 

[benmychree]

I would grind the top of the tool, you would not be losing much so far as the longevity of the tool is concerned, they last for many years in regular use, so far as know, all the cutter numbers have the same vertical dimension, even the ones for acme threads, and they are the same for all tool holder sizes. Both of the setscrews are used to adjust for helix angle, I just do it by eye, nothing technical is necessary, both should be snugged up to eliminate slop in the allen bolt that secures the tool to the holder. I would guess that the holder would be too hard to machine the bottom, At least for most hobbyiests.

 

[mmcmdl]

/\/\ John called it right . Grind the P blade down to get to centerline . One blade will last you forever .

 

[WobblyHand]

I would grind the top of the tool, you would not be losing much so far as the longevity of the tool is concerned, they last for many years in regular use, so far as know, all the cutter numbers have the same vertical dimension, even the ones for acme threads, and they are the same for all tool holder sizes. Both of the setscrews are used to adjust for helix angle, I just do it by eye, nothing technical is necessary, both should be snugged up to eliminate slop in the allen bolt that secures the tool to the holder. I would guess that the holder would be too hard to machine the bottom, At least for most hobbyiests.

Not sure how to grind the tool and maintain the angle. Don't have anything like a surface grinder. Got diamond plates from 150 - 1500 though. Suspect that would take a while to remove 0.020"! I think I'm close to being on center, but not quite there. The angle of the scale in the top photo is around 9 degrees from vertical.

Thanks for the confirmation on helix angle. That helps a bit.

I was wondering about machining the holder. Carbide end mill wouldn't work? I'd hate to break a nice end mill. That would make this tool even more expensive. Have a Niagara carbide 1/2" end mill, not sure I want to use it...

 

[WobblyHand]

/\/\ John called it right . Grind the P blade down to get to centerline . One blade will last you forever .

I figured the P blade is a wear item. Don't have a good way to nicely remove material and maintain the angle. Belt grinder table isn't rigid enough (or I'm not talented enough) to maintain decent angles. Fixing the belt grinder is a whole different round tuit project. Is there something "simple" that I could make that could help do the grind to a decent level? I don't think I have to remove much, but it is more than a few thousandths, more like 0.010-0.020 as a swag.

 

[jwmelvin]

Don't have a good way to nicely remove material and maintain the angle.

You just have to grind the top flat face and keep it generally flat and aligned. After removing some material on a bench or belt grinder, you can touch it up on a stone/diamond card.

 

[WobblyHand]

You just have to grind the top flat face and keep it generally flat and aligned. After removing some material on a bench or belt grinder, you can touch it up on a stone/diamond card.

Removing material is easy Keeping it generally flat and aligned is a lot harder (for me). Find it very hard to do this with my setup. Really need to make a 2x72 grinder rather than the makeshift thing I have. The makeshift grinder table won't maintain angle with respect to the belt, it sags under pressure, no matter how hard the screw is tightened.

 

[mmcmdl]

Hand held angle grinder would do it easily . The top doesn't need to be perfectly flat . Sometimes a little positive rake works great !

 

[mmcmdl]

I have a few P6 blades here . I just hit them on the bench grinder with no issues .