AXA-8 am I setting this up right?

WobblyHand

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Just received an AXA-8 threading tool today. It seems that I can't quite set the tool to centerline. It's too high. The tool holder is bottomed out on the compound. Can't go any lower.

How are the adjusting screws set? What should the angle of the cutter be relative to the tool holder? There was no paperwork with the tool, which was drop shipped from Aloris.

I measured dimension A and B on my tool. I get A = 0.985" and B = 1.615"a. Aloris says that A should be 13/16", and B should be 1-5/8". Dimension A is hard to measure with calipers, so it's possible that number is slightly off, but it is nowhere near 13/16". Sanity check picture with scale shows similar results.
PXL_20211202_172205827.jpgPXL_20211202_173016416.jpg
I was going to contact Aloris, but thought I'd check here first. Could be something I'm doing wrong? Seems weird that Aloris would be 0.173" off on their own print?

Although it may look like it, I'm not threading that rod. That's a ground rod for checking RDM. I needed something for the scale to rest against.
 
Tool is to big for lathe as it sits. You will have to take some off the bottom of the toolblock or grind off the top of the cutter to get you to centerline. Sorry
 
Tool is to big for lathe as it sits. You will have to take some off the bottom of the toolblock or grind off the top of the cutter to get you to centerline. Sorry
The tool also doesn't meet their published drawing. If it had met the drawing, it wouldn't bottom out. They are off by over 172 thousandths. Their drawing doesn't show tolerances, however, but it does seem like a significant difference.

As is, the tool appears too big. Seems ridiculous to have to alter a brand new tool just to get it to work at all. I did contact Aloris to see what their view was. If push comes to shove, I'll take some off the bottom of the holder. Probably hardened steel?
 
How are the set screws set? Does one set the tool vertical, or does one use them to adjust the helix angle? Some of these tools the manufacturer assumes the user knows how to set up. Us hobbyists don't know this stuff yet.
 
Aloris has different blade sizes for the AXA-8. It appears that you may have a P6 while you really need a P10.
 
As to your problem, you could set your compound at 0º and hang the tool holder off the left side of the compound so the tool holder bottom hangs below the top of the compound. If you want to advance your cut along the 29.5º line, you would be faced with milling or grinfing the bottom of the tool holder for clearance. Or modify the cutting tool as suggested above.
 
Aloris has different blade sizes for the AXA-8. It appears that you may have a P6 while you really need a P10.
The blade I have is marked P10, it is cast into the piece. It can be seen in the second photo if it is blown up. Of course, it could be out of spec as well, exacerbating the problem.
 
The blade I have is marked P10, it is cast into the piece. It can be seen in the second photo if it is blown up. Of course, it could be out of spec as well, exacerbating the problem.
OK, I see it now,. For $130, I would expect better from Aloris. I would give them a call.
 
As to your problem, you could set your compound at 0º and hang the tool holder off the left side of the compound so the tool holder bottom hangs below the top of the compound. If you want to advance your cut along the 29.5º line, you would be faced with milling or grinfing the bottom of the tool holder for clearance. Or modify the cutting tool as suggested above.
I'd like to be able to thread along 29.5 degrees. So it seems I need to alter the tool or tool holder. Is Aloris expecting no one will use modified flank threading with this tool? Or expecting their users will modify their tools, just to get them to work?
 
OK, I see it now,. For $130, I would expect better from Aloris. I would give them a call.
I think this is probably the fastest way. Was expecting to just be able to use the thing, not to have to grind it to work at all.
 
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