ARC-170's Craftsman 101.07403 lathe restoration thread

11. (could be #9 continued, but let's go with 11): I've started looking for parts that I need and took a closer look at the change gears on the side. Here is a picture of what came with the machine. It appears to be set up for 0.005" feed (see chart) instead of the "standard" that is shown in the parts manual (see below for specifics). Am I correct?
lathe gears with letters.jpg
lathe gear chart.jpg
A: spindle-fixed, isn't changed for threading, feed rate, etc, correct?
B: 24 tooth gear
C: 20 tooth gear
D/E: 32/16 tooth compound gear, isn't changed for threading, feed rate, etc, correct?
B, C, D, and E are part of the reverse/forward mechanism, and are not changed for threading, feed rate, etc, correct?
F/G: 48/20
H/I: 52/20
J: 54 connects to lead screw, correct?

The parts manual calls for F/G to be 56/20 and H/I to be 64/20 and J to be 64.

So it would appear I need the following change gears:
24, 32 (2), 36, 40, 44, 46, 54, 56, 64 (2), and 50 and 60 for metric threads.

For reference the set called for in the parts manual is: 24, 32 (2), 36, 40, 44, 46,48, 52, 54. I think I have 48 and 52 (F, H).

It also appears I need the 9-70A bushings that go in the gears. Correct? None of the change gear sets come with them.

Can someone confirm/correct this so I can start looking for a set and/or individual change gears? Thanks!
 
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Are you sure that gear J is a 54? It looks too big to be a 54 when compared to your 52 H gear. It might be a 64. Other than that it looks like you have identified the change gears you need. You already have the 9-70A bushings. There will be a 9-70A bushing on your F/G, H/I and J gears. These bushings are sometimes stuck in the gears. At least they were on my lathe. I had to soak my gears in solvent to free up the bushings.
 
mickri said:
Are you sure that gear J is a 54? It looks too big to be a 54 when compared to your 52 H gear. It might be a 64. Other than that it looks like you have identified the change gears you need. You already have the 9-70A bushings. There will be a 9-70A bushing on your F/G, H/I and J gears. These bushings are sometimes stuck in the gears. At least they were on my lathe. I had to soak my gears in solvent to free up the bushings.
Click to expand...

Yes. it has a "54" on it and I just counted them to be sure. The other one has a "52" on it.

I had a feeling the bushings were removable! It occurred to me after I posted and looked again at the parts diagram and didn't see them listed anywhere else. Thanks for confirming.
 
First some comments.
I assume that you moved F/G and H/I out of mesh to improve visibility.

There are two gear positions for each position on the Change Gear Bracket (AKA Banjo), Front and Back, or Front and Rear, or Near and Far. Your threading chart should use Front and Rear. This includes the Screw Gear, although there should never be but one actual gear in the Screw position. The other position is occupied by a smooth spacer.

A gear in the Rear position can only mesh with another gear in the rear position. A gear in the Front position can only mesh with another gear in the Front position.

Any gear that is both driven and driving is an Idler. It can be replaced with anything else that will fit without changing the speed of the lead screw

The only gears that can effect the speed of the lead screw relative to the spindle are compound gears and the screw gear

A is the spindle gear. It never changes.

B & C are the tumbler gears. They never change. Which one is FWD and which is REV depends upon whether there are an even number or an odd number of gears in the rest of the gear train. And for that matter on how you want to define FWD and REV,

D & E never change, but if you look at the threading chart, you will see that sometimes C is driving the next gear in the train and sometimes D is. If C is used, the lead screw will turn half as fast as it will if D is used. In other words, using C gives you a 2:1 reduction.

F and G are not a compound gear because G cannot mesh with anything. Therefore, F is an Idler and G is a Spacer.

H and I are a Compound Gear. H is driven by F and I drives J, the Screw Gear on your threading chart.

J is the Screw Gear. It is currently in the Front position and in the Rear position is a spacer. So yes, J connects to the screw.

There should already be two 9-70A keyed bushings on the Banjo, one in F & G and one in H & I. After dinner, I'll confirm your Needed list. But it's probably right, except for the two 9-70A's.
 
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12. How much does this lathe weigh? Just the lathe, not the stand. I thought of getting a crane scale to use with my engine hoist but that seems a waste for just one use. Can these be rented? I thought of getting a used one on CL, but I'm afraid it might not be accurate. I don't need the weight to the nearest ounce; the nearest pound will be fine.
13. I bought another lathe to use for parts: the belt guards and some other pieces mine is missing. It is a different color, though. I'd like to paint the machine. Does anyone know the actual color names or should I just get close? Does it really matter, anyway? Mine is an aqua green. I like it, but I haven't seen a rattle can color that matches. I could get it matched at an auto paint shop but that might be expensive, especially since I don't think I need auto paint for the lathe anyway. I'm open to painting it another color. However, I may just clean it, put the parts on and have it look mismatched for awhile. "Frankenlathe!"
 
If you have a bathroom scale you can get the weight of your lathe. Make three spacers out of wood or whatever that are the same height as the scale. Put the scale under one leg and the spacers under the other three. Then swap the scale from one leg to the next recording the weight at each leg. Add them up and you will have the weight of your lathe. Or if you have 4 scales put one under each leg.
 
12. We don't have an accurate figure for the actual weight of any of the lathes. However, the Craftsman Power Tools catalogs do give the shipping weights. The shipping weight of a complete (new) Craftsman 12x36 101.07403 is 290 lb. That weight includes the weight of the wood crate it was shipped in, maybe 50 lb +/-, and the weight of the MOLO, the remaining 10 Change Gears that were shipped loose (not mounted on the lathe), and a few relatively light accessories that came with the basic lathe, probably no more than 5 or 10 lb. The accessories are listed in any of the catalog ads. And specifically which gears were shipped loose are shown as a stack of 10 gears on the same parts manual page as shows the headstock.

Note that the 10F is a little lighter than the 07403 because its height is 1" less than the 12", all of which is cast iron.

Commenting on mickri's suggestion of weighing each corner and adding them, the legs don't really lend themselves to doing that. I wouldn't believe the results unless four scales were used. However, a spacer block at one end and the scales at the other would. The actual weight would be the sum of the two readings. And to answer the rental question, yes you should be able to rent a crane scale and if you don't have one, an engine hoist able to left the scale with the lathe attached to it. But the flat (bathroom) scales and spacer method would give as good a result and be cheaper.
 
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13. Sears seemed to cycle through various colors for each year. I've never heard of anyone coming up with any accepted name for each color. So if you want the replacement parts to be the same color as the original lathe parts (which is a reasonable wish), your only option is to have the color matched. But it wouldn't hurt anything to ask the shop doing the matching to tell you the closest commercially available match, if any.
 
Rustoleum makes a dark metallic grey, or metallic black (Can't remember the name), that is a close fit to the dark color that Sears used in the 80, but has a nice metallic touch to it. I've done a couple of tools with it, but the only pic I can find on this computer, is the air cleaner in my Ramcharger. Not a great pic, but you can get the idea. Check it out, you may like it.


0424141918-01.jpg
 
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