ARC-170's Craftsman 101.07403 lathe restoration thread

1-5 i'm not really sure , yes some of the bolts look un stock . 6 u know 7 is the oil cup , but it is missing the oil quill . The oil is put on the dead center . 8 You are missing some parts , but that is the saddle lock . 9 those screws you un screw and oil . The one closest to the cross feed handle for sure , the other one I think . My lathe only has the one . 10 yes those are not stock and they should have nuts . Whew ...
 
I forgot to point out that #7 has no hole for oil to exit; this is just a hole in the tailstock.
 
Here is a manual with an exploded view and part numbers for everything. you should be able to google different versions of this if this doesn't match your exact model, but this really helped me get the missing pieces for my craftsman 12". Note that in the cases where the part is a screw, etc there will be an asterisk next to it and the manifest lists the size of the screw so you can easily track down the hardware store parts.

Good luck and I'm sure people here can help you find what you need.
 

Attachments

  • Craftsman12inchlathe.pdf
    8.5 MB · Views: 28
note that the small set screws on the cross slide do unscrew and are for oil.
 
Some of these questions have been answered but I'll include them here just to have everything in one place.

The Craftsman 12" manual attached above is for the 101.28900 and 28910, not for the 101.07403. There are enough differences that it may in some cases be more confusing than helpful. You will need to first make a donation but then you can download the parts manual on the 101.07403 (after reading the Downloads instructions up in the Sticky area). The 28900/28910 replaced the 07403, 27430 and 27440 in mid 1957. Some of the parts remained the same but many changed. Atlas (unlike GM and thousands of other companys) never changed an existing part number unless there was a significant change to the part. In most cases, if revisions were made to a part and the changed part was backwards compatible either directly or if some other parts were also changed, the revised part kept the original base part number but got a suffix letter beginning with A, then B, and so forth. When the 10, 10D and then 10F lathes came out, in most cases the base part number was retained but the prefix was changed to 10, 10D or 10F if the new part served the same function but wasn't interchangeable. Atlas bought Clausing in 1949/50. But by 1957, the Clausing people had or had begun to have the upper hand and the only part of those rules that the followed was that if the parts usage changed but the part hadn't changed, it kept its original part number. But if the part was changed it got a new Clausing part number, which I have never been able to determine the logic to.

Anyway, if the part in the 28900/28910 has an Atlas style part number, it is the same as on the 07403. If it has a Clausing part number, it is different. And one improvement that did appear with the Clausing parts lists is that commercial parts like nuts, bolts, keys, etc. were included and sufficiently described.

1. If this is a socket head screw as it appears to be, it isn't original as the original was a Fillister head Phillips screw. But in any case, it plus the other two plus three square nuts retain the 10F-11 Gear Case on the back side of the apron. These parts aren't shown on the apron parts drawing for the 101.07403 but are for the 101.28900/28910.

2. The missing 10F-84 Knob is retained by a 3/32" x 1/2" Groove Pin,

3. Again, may not be original, but it retains the 10F-81 Bearing, part of the power cross feed.

4. Retains the 10F-17 Stud, also part of power cross feed.

5. On the back side of the apron, for one of the two alignment groove pins for the half nut guide. The only reason that I can think of for it to be drilled through from the front is that it was located off of the hole for the half nut actuator (scroll) shaft (which has to be drilled from the front), and then the other hole was located on the back side off of the first two. It's the same way on all of the 12" and 10"aprons or carriages.

6. Yes, a 1/4"-20 square head bolt which should be down in the hole and a threaded lock lever 9-42A.

7. That hole is for storing the 10D-260 oil or white lead dropper for when you are using a dead center in the tailstock ram.

8. for the square head bolt for the carriage lock.

9. Their purpose is to keep swarf (chips, shavings and dust) from getting into the cross feed screw bearing or onto the power cross feed gears. They are removed for oiling the bearing and gears, then put back in the holes and turned down flush with the top of the dovetail.

10. Yes, the screws are all wrong and yes, they should all have lock nuts.
 
I thin k oil Dauber is the right name. I also think it was one of Mr Petes videos, where he makes one for one of his lathes.

Here is a pic I saved from somewhere, and a drawing, of course the dimensions will need be changed to fit your needs. I will be the first project for my southbend when I get it back together.

dauber photo.JPGarealproject.JPG
 
The original Atlas 10 had a somewhat lighter tailstock without the protrusion and hole for the oil dropper. The 10D-260 Oil Dropper first appeared with the 10D lathe (as indicated by its part number), which was circa 1936. The earliest 10" lathe parts list that we currently have is of the 10E, which is the so-called "Unit Plan" version of the 10D (no change gears or back gears). It lists the 10D-260. Several pretty good photos from catalogs or brochures show that the 10D-260 probably looked like the one in Post #7 rather than the one in #8. I would guess that #8 came from either Clausing, Logan or South Bend. The last dated parts list that we have that shows 10D-260 is Lathe Bulletin 10L-6 dated June, 1966. So neither the part number nor the name changed over 30+ years. The re-designed 12" introduced in late 1957 and sold by both Atlas and Sears does not have an oil dropper.
 
Thanks to all for your input! Much appreciated. I should have mentioned that I have the parts list for my particular lathe model. It's just not very clear in some respects. There are no lines showing where parts go, just the parts shown in approximate relative relation. It's hard to tell what goes where without the center lines that are usually used to show the alignment of parts.

Robert, thanks, as always, for your help.

1. I think this was fixed at some point. I found a broken miter gear that appears to be part of the carriage (there are two listed on my parts diagram). I can't see behind, but I think I might be missing something or the lathe had something repaired. I won't know until I clean the lathe, lube it and then try all the features.

2. Could I just make one of these knobs and buy a roll pin? I need a photo of the knob, though. I could find one on Ebay, but similar ones are really pricey.

3-5. Noted, thanks!

6. This appears to be a simple mechanism. I could make one of these. I have one piece; I could turn the other one and mill the chamfer. Could I make this out of aluminum or would steel be better? I could find one on Ebay, but similar ones are really pricey.

7. I see that now that I know what to look for, thanks! The part is listed in the exploded parts view as "10D-260 oil dropper". Thanks to Superburban and westsailpat!

8. I figured this out after I posted. I plan to buy a bolt and washer and make a square clamp (part#9-14 clamp). I think steel would be best.

9. Noted, thanks!

10. I found the nuts, bolts and washers at Fastenal, which just happens to have a branch near me.

Looks like I need to get the lathe working so I can make a few parts for it!
 
2. Yes, you can make the knob (out of steel). The same knob is used on the 28900 & 28910. The drawing there may be better. Or you might be able to buy a similar knob from some place like Ace Hardware and drill out the threads and cross-drill it. Just be sure that the substitute is smooth, not fluted, as the knob will be spinning when you need to pull it out or push it back in. No but you can buy the taper pin, probably again from Ace.

6. You can make it out of aluminum but the threads won't last very long. Use steel. I think that you can still buy the cast handle from Clausing. To get the parts out of the hole, first run the tailstock ram all of the way out and then pull it out of the tailstock. Then slide the tailstock off of the ways and invert it and see if the bolt won't fall through far enough to grab the threads.

9. There should be a drawing of the 9-14 clamp plate in Downloads. Use steel.
 
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