ARC-170's Craftsman 101.07403 lathe restoration thread

[Superburban]

The "A" tailstock, will have the two pieces you talk about. I have found that the inserts swell up, and do not fit. I just made replacements out of aluminum. You can either tap the bottom piece, or I like to mill a small square, and use a square nut. I like to also make room for a small spring, to help keeping one from jamming.

This is a pic I saved from somewhere, not the ones I did, but gives you the idea.


The "B" tailstock, will have the handle, and the lower piece, not a set of two. The nice thing, is there is plenty of room to put a spring in to help unlock the quill.

Either setup, is easy to make. Turn the stock to the right diameter, so it slides in the hole nicely. Bore the right size hole down the center. For the A version, cut the part in to 2 pieces. Then use a grinding wheel, sanding drum, or mill, to add the cutouts that lock onto the quill. Then either tap the lower piece, or mill a spot on the bottom for a nut (I like square ones). If nothing else, you could do it slowly with a dremel tool. When I got my first atlas 6", that was the first thing I did with the milling attachment.

A great beginner project. Worst case, you start over.

 

[ARC-170]

14. They both have the same numbers cast in on both parts: 10D-6 for the base and L4-5 for the tailstock. The only difference is the hole.

18. I've downloaded the instructions for removing the bearing on a 6" lathe. Will these work for a 12"? I could not find anything for 12" lathes. I tried keeping the search terms simple (for example "babbit" or "bearing" instead of "removing babbit bearings", only searching in the right place etc, and got nothin'.

19. It's been sprayed and soaked several times and it's still stuck. I even sprayed penetrating oil from the other side and in the little lube hole (seems odd that there's a lube port; unless the threads are much shorter, this port appears to lead to the threads). There is a 1/8" slot across the hole; should I make some sort of plate to put in there to put a wrench on? Might be better than using groove pliers (Channel-locks) and messing up the bearing. Anybody got any ideas for getting it out? I suppose I could just tape it off for painting.

 

[ARC-170]

The "A" tailstock, will have the two pieces you talk about. I have found that the inserts swell up, and do not fit. I just made replacements out of aluminum. You can either tap the bottom piece, or I like to mill a small square, and use a square nut. I like to also make room for a small spring, to help keeping one from jamming.

This is a pic I saved from somewhere, not the ones I did, but gives you the idea.
View attachment 285863

The "B" tailstock, will have the handle, and the lower piece, not a set of two. The nice thing, is there is plenty of room to put a spring in to help unlock the quill.

Either setup, is easy to make. Turn the stock to the right diameter, so it slides in the hole nicely. Bore the right size hole down the center. For the A version, cut the part in to 2 pieces. Then use a grinding wheel, sanding drum, or mill, to add the cutouts that lock onto the quill. Then either tap the lower piece, or mill a spot on the bottom for a nut (I like square ones). If nothing else, you could do it slowly with a dremel tool. When I got my first atlas 6", that was the first thing I did with the milling attachment.

A great beginner project. Worst case, you start over.

I thought I might just have the lower piece, but I was concerned that I needed two to have equal force on the ram when tight. Are you saying I could have just one sleeve and add a spring?

I could build this as you describe, then cut the two pieces shorter, too. I think they only need to be about 1/8"-3/16" shorter.

What did you mill the square hole with? A very small mill cutter (like 1/16" diameter)?

 

[wa5cab]

14. They both have the same numbers cast in on both parts: 10D-6 for the base and L4-5 for the tailstock. The only difference is the hole.

18. I've downloaded the instructions for removing the bearing on a 6" lathe. Will these work for a 12"? I could not find anything for 12" lathes. I tried keeping the search terms simple (for example "babbit" or "bearing" instead of "removing babbit bearings", only searching in the right place etc, and got nothin'.

19. It's been sprayed and soaked several times and it's still stuck. I even sprayed penetrating oil from the other side and in the little lube hole (seems odd that there's a lube port; unless the threads are much shorter, this port appears to lead to the threads). There is a 1/8" slot across the hole; should I make some sort of plate to put in there to put a wrench on? Might be better than using groove pliers (Channel-locks) and messing up the bearing. Anybody got any ideas for getting it out? I suppose I could just tape it off for painting.

14: Both bases being 10D-6 makes sense. Both of the tailstocks being L4-5 doesn't. But as I said before, you should take the B tailstock to someone and have the hole bored through and through to the same diameter as the bottom part of the hole. Then if the lower lock is still stuck you can simply press it out.

18: I don't know why "babbit" even came up. The 101.07403 (and for that matter all four of the 101.0740x have Timken bearings. The four 101.0738x and four 101.0736x all have babbit bearings. In any case, when you go to Downloads, the first file at the top of the page as of a few minutes ago is the one that you want for an early 12" with Timken bearings. It is titled "Atlas Tech Bulletin 12 Early Back Gear Instr.pdf". Perhaps I should have changed the name. However, to answer your actual question, Atlas didn't do a Tech Bulletin on the babbit bearing headstocks. I don't know exactly when the Technical Bulletins on the headstocks were done but think late 1960's, by which time the babit bearing headstocks had been out of production for more than 20 years. The back gear portion is essentially the same in the 10" and early 12". The babbit bearings are covered adequately in the 1937 MOLO's.

19: The oil hole in the top of the tailstock casting near the bearing is for the tailstock ram feed screw. I will call Clausing next week to confirm this but have come to the conclusion that the 10D-30 bearing for the tailstock feed screw is pressed in. And that the oil hole for the screw was drilled after assembly. I had always assumed that it was threaded like the similar part on the saddle for the cross feed screw. And the drawing of the part in the 10F late parts manual sorta looked like it was threaded. But the similar drawing for the 3996 does not. And as you have found, there is no good way in which to tighten or loosen it.

 

[ARC-170]

14. I got everything out. I just need to re-assemble it. I appear to have 3 choices:
A. bore out the hole and put both sleeves back in
B. leave as is and use just one sleeve
C. Leave as is and make new, shorter sleeves

18, Thanks, I found it. I was just using "babbit" as an example; I'm not sure what I typed. Sorry for the confusion. Still. as you told me in your PM, search is not very good.

19. Good to know it was drill thru after. Let's see if Clausing knows if it's threaded or pressed. It sure isn't budging.

 

[wa5cab]

The problems with using just one locking sleeve are that (a) the holding force will be reduced and (b) the consequence of wear are that when tightened, the ram will not only move toward the operator, which can be corrected for by a slight adjustment of the backset screws, but it will also lift, which cannot.

 

[benjamin.willhoite]

Hey ARC-170. I also have a 12" craftsman deluxe metal lathe, 101.07403. I got it home recently and started turning stuff. I love it like mammaries. I fitted it with a QCTP and just started using it. I got it on craiglist and it had apparently been the much-loved tool of an old millright. I am just sounding off. How is your lathe working now?

 

[ARC-170]

Hey ARC-170. I also have a 12" craftsman deluxe metal lathe, 101.07403. I got it home recently and started turning stuff. I love it like mammaries. I fitted it with a QCTP and just started using it. I got it on craiglist and it had apparently been the much-loved tool of an old millright. I am just sounding off. How is your lathe working now?

We have the same model, then. What's the swing and length? Mine is a 12 x 24. Post a picture. I'm jealous of your QCTP.

It's still in pieces. The headstock bearings are frozen for now. I bought another lathe for the parts (it was a CL special, no motor, just the parts I needed), so I'm taking them both apart, cleaning them and making one good lathe. I'll sell the pieces I don't need.

 

[ARC-170]

#21. I'm trying to remove the spindle gear on the left of the headstock (#9-100-32). I got the collar off with a pipe wrench and a strap wrench on the back gear. It would appear the spindle gear is threaded on, but the instructions I downloaded stated to slide it off. I've tapped it with a piece of wood and it won't budge. However, it appear to have threads. Are the threads flush with the surface of the shaft? I realize it's been assembled for man many years, but it seems like it should come off easier.

In the image you can see the piece of wood and the gear. Sorry, it's a bit blurry.

While it soaks in penetrating oil, I thought I'd ask if there are any tricks to getting it off or if I'm missing something. Could I use another strap wrench on the gear and turn it? I figure if I turn it, I can also slide it off.

 

[benjamin.willhoite]

12x24 is about right for the working length. I don't know if i get a full 12" swing, but it is close. I have attached a pic. I have a number of issues, including a complete lack of change gears-- i have two and two small spur gears-- just enough to have power feed/cross feed. I was asked to make a ring this afternoon from aluminium, so i included that pic too!