ARC-170's Craftsman 101.07403 lathe restoration thread

I agree. While a set that has exactly what you think that you need would be better, single gears do show up as well as sets. AFAIK, the 101.07403 parts manual that is in Downloads is accurate in this respect. I am about to release Revision 8 but the changes are limited to cleaning up some of the text for better legibility.

Note that the full change gear set for a 101.07403 is 15 gears. It includes five gears that were always on the machine when it originally shipped. These gears are 20T x 2, 56T and 64T x 2. So the full set of change gears for a 101.07403 is 15 gears. Plus one spacer which should always be on the shaft containing the screw gear. Also, be sure that all of the gears that you buy have an "A" suffix to the part number. The original 10" and 12" change gears had part numbers of the form "9-101-nn" where "nn" is the tooth count. These were supplied on all lathes equipped with 5.8" diameter lead screws except for the 101.07402. These gears have a nominal 3/8" face and 3/8" hub length. The Revision "A" gears (part numbers "9-101-nnA"), still have a 3/8" face but the hub length was increased to 1/2". The original gears can actually be used on the later machines but will require two 1/16" thick double-keyed spacers to make up for the shorter hub length.

Note that access to Downloads is limited to donors because the expense of maintaining the Downloads section is a significant part of the site's monthly expenses.
 
10. How do I determine which taper I have on the tailstock? The only tooling that seems to fit is a live center that has "NO 2#" written on the box. I'm guessing #2 Morse taper, but want a way to confirm this.

It's 0.715" in dia at one end, 0.59" at the other and approx 2.35" long. Doing some math gives me a taper angle of about 1.53 degrees which is pretty close to what a Morse taper angle is for this size (1 25' 49". I couldn't measure it any better than the significant digits given so I'm sure there's some error in my calculations.

None of the other tooling I got with the machine fits the tailstock. They appear to be tapered sleeves that hold a #2 MT on the inside, but are way too big to fit in the tailstock. Am I missing something?

Would this work in in my lathe? It's an ER25 so it goes up to 5/8" diameter. Would I want/be able to put bigger diameter cutters in my lathe? I guess I could use a boring bar to make bigger holes, but I have some bigger drills I can use.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5450&category=-421559299

ER32 goes up to 20mm (0.78") so that might be better. I could use them in the mill as well.

I couldn't find any MT2 to ER32 adapters, just MT2 to ER20 and ER25, so I'm guessing this is the limit. Am I correct?
 
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I was able to find an MT2 to ER40, a couple of years ago. You aught to be able to find anything in between, I'd think.
 
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Your tailstock has a mt2 taper. The headstock has a mt3 taper. The sleeves are probably mt2 to mt3 adapters. You can find er32/mt2 collet chucks on ebay. I searched for "er32 collet chucks" and got numerous hits. Here is one example https://www.ebay.com/itm/MT2-ER32-C...=item5689450044:g:4ykAAOSwAtlaqOza:rk:26:pf:0 You will also find er32 / r8 collet chucks to fit on the mill. Some of the er32 collet sets come with a mt2 chuck and the wrench.
 
Jeff,

As micri said, all Atlas built 9", 10" and 12" lathes came with a 3MT spindle and a 2MT tailstock ram. They all originally shipped with a 3MT x 2MT reducing sleeve which has the distinction of offering the shortest conversion of any adapters that I have seen. When installed in the spindle, almost all of the sleeve is inside the spindle so that a cutter or holder with a 2MT arbor doesn't stick out much farther than it would if the spindle had a 2MT taper to begin with. All other commercial adapters that I have seen add about 3" of stickout. Because of this, Atlas shipped two 2MT dead centers with their lathes instead of one 2MT and one 3MT.

As far as the ER collets holders go, there are two types that will fit on an Atlas. One type screws directly onto the 1-1/2"-8 spindle nose threads like any other chuck. It's only drawback is that as with any other threaded chuck, you can't safely do any turning, threading or facing with the motor in Reverse. Otherwise, it is the preferred version as since you don't need a drawbar, up to 3/4" diameter it allows the work piece to stick through the spindle bore so that if you were making several small parts out of round stock, you wouldn't have to pre-cut the stock to rough length but can use long stock, make the part, and part it off with minimum stock wastage.

The other type will have either a 2MT or a 3MT drawbar type arbor that the chuck is attached to. Its major disadvantage is that you can't pass the work piece through the spindle. Plus it usually results in a little more stickout. Its advantage is that you can safely turn and thread in reverse. If you were contemplating doing a lot of left hand threads, it would be your choice. Otherwise, for most work the screw-on type would be preferred.

The only disadvantage I can think of to the ER style collets is that for production work where the part and not the cutter is being held in the collet, they are the slowest. In order to load and unload parts, you must stop the lathe and pick up a wrench.

And I always like to add to any discussion that involves MT arbors that you should never ever use a Tang type arbor on any cutter or work piece holder mounted in the spindle. If you do, sooner or later (and probably sooner) the arbor will pull out of the taper and at best you will only ruin the work piece.
 
I am in process making an er32 collet chuck to fit on the spindle of my lathe. Making an er32 collet chuck is a good project. You have boring, internal threading, machining an internal taper and external metric threading. Or you can buy one from Beall. http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php
 
I took a look at what Beall has to offer. I was surprised to see that although they offer a 1"-8. which will fit the Craftsman 101.07301 and a 3/4"-16 that will fit a 101.07300 (if there are still any of those around in working order), they do not offer a 1"-10, which would fit the 612, 618, 101.20400, 3950. 101.21200 and 10100. Has anyone ever asked them why not? I know that 3/4"-16 fits a lot of larger wood lathes but there are a whole lot of machines with 1"-10. Just based on the highest serial numbers in the database, Atlas alone made more than 72,927 of them.

Anyway, although I have MT, 3AT and for historical reasons 5C and a 5C chuck, I may buy an ER32 chuck from them next year. I just wish that 5C went up to 1-1/2" instead of only 1-1/16".

ADDENDUM: The reason that I would go up to ER32 is that it will handle up to 3/4" diameter, which is the largest diameter workpiece that will fit through the spindle bore of an Atlas/Craftsman 10" or 12".
 
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wa5cab said:
......
Anyway, although I have MT, 3AT and for historical reasons 5C and a 5C chuck, I may buy an ER32 chuck from them next year. I just wish that 5C went up to 1-1/2" instead of only 1-1/16".
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Hehe, 3AT, haven't seen that for awhile. Several years ago I bought a set off eBay to fill out mine for the Logan. Haven't used them at all, dang it.

Darn shame you don't know your Atlas/Craftman lathes, always amazing your depth of knowledge of them. :grin:
 
I didn't even think about the spindles! DOH! I have several tang-style MT#3 tapers that fit. They are pretty rough on the surface; any way to clean them up?

I haven't cleaned the machine yet; I'm doing another project in the garage and am waiting for that to be done and out of the way before I make another mess with the lathe. In the meantime, I thought I would take advantage of deals that may be had this time of year and see about getting any tooling.

I bought some R8 collets for the mill, but I may take another look at the ER collets, since, as Mickri pointed out, I can use them in both machines with adapters. wa5cab/Robert has given me some more info (thank you, sir!) to think about as well. Again, I have to wait until the big project is done before setting up my mill and lathe. I figure I'll ask questions and get ready to roll in the meantime!
 
My lathe appears to be missing a few parts. I have numbered the hole/feature where I think something is missing or that I have a question about to make discussion easier. The feature in question is to the right of the number.
IMG_1216 cropped with numbers.jpg
1. There is nothing missing. I just want to know if this type of bolt is this original? It looks newer.
2. The knob is missing. How is it attached? The shaft has a hole in it at 90 degrees to the main axis.
3. What is this bolt for? The parts diagram isn't clear to me.
4. What is this?
5. Is this hole for anything?

IMG_1217 cropped with numbers.jpg
6. This is for the locking screw on the tail stock, which I know I need.
7. But, what is this for? It's just a hole.

IMG_1218 cropped with numbers.jpg
8. I bought a thread dial. I know I need the bolt to attach it, but what goes in this hole? Another bolt? What does it do? Does it clamp the thread dial?
IMG_1219 cropped with numbers.jpg
9. These are labelled "oil". Do they unscrew? Do I pour oil down them? I don't want to try unscrewing them until I know I can.
10. These look like the wrong bolts. They also need lock nuts, correct?
 
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