arbors

Irish, the slitting arbor I made doesn't have a keyway. Come to think of it, the blades I bought didn't either. Skilsaws don't use them and the blade is a lot bigger. It helps that they can slip if something goes really wrong. I haven't had one slip yet.

If you are going to use factory nuts on an arbor, keep in mind that you should face them on the arbor. Factory stuff is rarely square or centered. Normal arbors have a turned shoulder with a boss sized to just fit the hole in the blade. As you can see in Grayone's picture, the blade is held by a cap with a SHCS threaded into the boss of the shaft. The cap has a counterbore in the hidden side to slip over the bit of the boss that extends through the thickness of the blade.
 
understand hawkeye, what is the best metal to make this out of cause i dont want anything to break, this will be my hardest project cause looking at it it needs to be done all in one chucking at least the arbor portion:biggrin:
 
thank you much Dalee for the info thats what i needed to know. think i will do this project between centers that way i can do the main part and not have to remove from chuck that way it will be aligned with the whole shaft. well that gives me my projects for the month are a little bit more. again ty for the info:biggrin: the irishwoodsman
 
I made mine out of a 1" grade 8 bolt that I had. I did put in a key way because all of my slitting blades have a key way.

Paul
 
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