Angle Grinder Stand

[rwm]

What size of screws are you cutting and what materials of bar stock are you to encounter? For small machine screws you can use a large pair of wire strippers with a screw cutter capability, fast and easy, without leaving a burr or abrasive dust.
limited to 10-32, 10-24 and smaller in soft steel.
For the bar stock, I would recommend the below miter saw. Works well at work for cutting non ferrous metals. Accurate with the end stop to a few thou. Parts can be put to use with the raw saw cut surface some times. This one or the cheap knock off units could also do depending on your needs.

PROXXON - KGS 80

I don't know about this "wood" stuff you are referring to. I am cutting screws #4-1/4" and steel/stainless bar stock 1/8 to 1/2".
I already have a bandsaw, and a 14" chop saw with metal blade. They are great for larger stock. My small lathe does not part well.
Hmmm. Lots of negative feedback. That is important. Maybe not my next project?

 

[Boswell]

I mostly use a hack saw for smaller screws or sometimes a Foredom (think Dremel). I did see someone build a jig (plate with tapped thru-holes). They used it to hold the screws when cutting. Looked like it could be handy for smaller screws.

 

[C-Bag]

This is going to be my next project. I need a quick and accurate cutoff tool for small diameter barstock and screws.
I am thinking about something like this:

View attachment 493767
Sure I can buy one of questionable quality on the cheap but I want to build a better mouse trap. I can see me getting a lot of mileage out of something like this if it is easy to use. I already have a nice tiny CNC vise that I will use to hold the work, I just have to design and build the rest.

One issue with some these models is they spray abrasive grit at the pivot point (you will note this one is offset.) I want to build one where this is not an issue and also has good dust collection.
If you have one of these or have built something please post it up here with comments.

+1 for including what your goal is as the application is always where the rubber meets the road so to speak for me. I was in the same boat as I was building a lot of custom stuff with 80/20 which has really tight tolerances for screw lengths. I mean like 1/16” etc. For me it all came down to work holding first. The old standby of vicegrips was not at all safe or satisfactory. I saw and idea he called a lantern vise and adapted and modded it specifically for screws. This and a sled for my 14” bandsaw (slowed down for metal) for larger cuts and using this on the belt sander for touch ups.

 

[RickKr]

Like projectnut, I like using 5C collets in the lathe. Works for round, hex and can be done with a few square sizes for which I have collets (or a 4-jaw chuck). But, for odd stuff and specialty items, I have gone a spendier route, with the Proxxon Chop and Miter Saw. I had the far crappier version from Horror Freight but it was basically unusable for all but the simplest. The Proxxon is very versitile, is far more functional and a greater capacity.

For example, I needed to cut sections from 2" dia. stainless rings as blanks for making a small clamping tool for holding strips of bamboo on a milling platform for making bamboo fly rods. The Proxxon vises is far better than the previous mini-chop saw, but did not hold the ring secure enough, nor could I get consistent lengths. So, I made a jig to hold the ring as it got chopped down in circumference. No way to have done this on the HF POS.

It does spray the pivot points with grinding debris, so I set a baffle to deflect the debris. I'm quite pleased.

 

[toprecyler]

I don't know about this "wood" stuff you are referring to. I am cutting screws #4-1/4" and steel/stainless bar stock 1/8 to 1/2".
I already have a bandsaw, and a 14" chop saw with metal blade. They are great for larger stock. My small lathe does not part well.
Hmmm. Lots of negative feedback. That is important. Maybe not my next project?

Don’t be too discouraged by most of the “ negative” feedback. It probably that most people have figured out what works best for them in their particular shop. Everyone is different.

I have begun to think and wait these days before I start building a special jig or fixture or tool to do a certain job, and wait 2-6 months before doing bit. My criteria is “ have I needed this particular job more than 3-4 times in that time span”. Then maybe I will start making that project.


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[woodchucker]

Don’t be too discouraged by most of the “ negative” feedback. It probably that most people have figured out what works best for them in their particular shop. Everyone is different.

I have begun to think and wait these days before I start building a special jig or fixture or tool to do a certain job, and wait 2-6 months before doing bit. My criteria is “ have I needed this particular job more than 3-4 times in that time span”. Then maybe I will start making that project.


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yes that first statement is especially true. only you know your own situation best. I always understand the advise I am giving is related to my experience, and my shop. That's why you need to weigh the statements and figure out if it best fits your situation. Also realize a lot of people here go off subject or don't read / understand what you are looking for (myself included).. so just use the info and toss what you think doesn't fit.

 

[GeneT45]

My criteria for building a tool is "do I want to?". One thing I see missing, at least in the pictures of these alternate jigs is that no one has screwed a nut on to help iron out the damaged threads after cutting. A nut also protects your tool from the saw / grinder / whatever.

I also use a hacksaw when shortening bolts, but I might change my mind if I were doing a lot of bolts over 3/8"...

GsT

 

[woodchucker]

the nut helps, but is not necessary if you chamfer the end. Chamfering gives a nice lead. It cleans up the tip.
For a large number of bolts/ screws things change.

 

[GeneT45]

the nut helps, but is not necessary if you chamfer the end. Chamfering gives a nice lead. It cleans up the tip.
For a large number of bolts/ screws things change.

I find even chamfering can leave a burr that makes it difficult to get a nut started after shortening. Seems that there's always a whispy thread start that wants to fold over or bend. I consider the nut "insurance" - you can get away without it some of the time, but having it there works nearly every time.

GsT

 

[rwm]

Don’t be too discouraged by most of the “ negative” feedback. It probably that most people have figured out what works best for them in their particular shop. Everyone is different.

I feel like people with experience can be helpful in talking someone out of a bad idea. Sometimes discouragement is necessary. This whole discussion has been very helpful.