2021 POTD Thread Archive

That's good to know! I like a 3/8 impact gun for disassembling anything under a hood, but my favorite use is putting alloy wheels back on. You just crank it up as tight as the gun will get it with no worries of damaging a wheel. Also, make sure to have a set of 3/8 impact sockets to go with it.
 
I got the Mitutoyo indicator to replace my HF dial indicator on my lathe. The HF indicator has performed quite well for a couple of years on my carriage stop, but the plastic lens was getting burned by hot chips, and it got broken somehow. I have no idea how.
But since it is fix guage day at Shootys house, I figured that I would keep on keepin on. I had to lean on my window fixing days when I worked at a college.

I couldn't find my glass cutter, so I used this broken carbide endmill. It worked way better!
20210305_020520.jpg
The trick is to break the glass off around your circle in segments. Score both sides of the glass.
20210305_020808.jpg
Then go over to your grinding wheel, and with a fine, well balanced wheel, grind it to size and shape. It takes some patients because if you get the glass too hot, the edge that you are grinding will kind of explode from the temperature differential.
This is just window glass.
20210305_022926.jpg20210305_023210.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20210305_022937.jpg
    20210305_022937.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 27
  • 20210305_023119.jpg
    20210305_023119.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 29
made a 1.6" long tailstock extension nut for my South Bend 9 out of bronze. Miserable bloody material that is. It's tapped 1/2-10LH acme and has a nice fit on the old screw and the new allthread (pictured) that I'll be making the new screw out of. Came out nice. A big thanks to UlmaDocfor the loan of the tap and the gift of the allthread!
IMG_0130.JPG
IMG_0131.JPG
 
Grinding glass is much easier on a wheel that is wet. It does not need to run fast. A wet grinder for tools is perfect.
I have a lot of end mills like that.
Robert
 
Lipsticked a pig. The copper was actually pleasant to work with, until I was drilling clearance holes. I either didn't have the right angle on the drill or didn't spend the time dialing in the feeds and speeds, because the gumminess made the hole walls uuuuuugly.

PXL_20210306_023940895.MP.jpgPXL_20210306_212029404.jpg
 
That is brilliant. I have some buss bars that would make nice jaw covers.
Robert
 
Lipsticked a pig. The copper was actually pleasant to work with, until I was drilling clearance holes. I either didn't have the right angle on the drill or didn't spend the time dialing in the feeds and speeds, because the gumminess made the hole walls uuuuuugly.

View attachment 358323View attachment 358324

I made a set of copper soft jaws for the exact same vise last weekend.

Peck drilling gave me a bad finish. Not that it mattered. A firm plunge around 800 rpm gave me a shiny hole.

Have you modified the bearings at all on your vise?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Today i got the call that i was expecting from my brother. Bro i seem to have cooked the brakes on the Skoda, what makes you say that, it's been sounding like a train last few weeks, no the petal went to the floor and handbrake also went out. Put it on the inspection pit and everything was gone, so sent him with a shopping list. So in an hour and a half i replace front discs, pads, calipers and one axle seal, also fill the gearbox with gear oil. Then the rear drums, new cylinders, shoes, drums, handbrake cables, new brake fluid. lots of parts but went quickly.
IMG_20210306_140727.jpg
 
I made a set of copper soft jaws for the exact same vise last weekend.

Peck drilling gave me a bad finish. Not that it mattered. A firm plunge around 800 rpm gave me a shiny hole.

Have you modified the bearings at all on your vise?
Go figure! The model has been okay to me so far, and now I'm willing to use it a lot more that it won't chew on parts.

I hadn't even thought of other modifications to it, though. What'd you do for the bearings?
 
Back
Top