2021 POTD Thread Archive

I bought this 3/8" impact gun used. This thing is an animal, amazingly powerful for a 3/8" impact gun. So, I used it for a bit after taking it apart and cleaning it. Everything was going well untill the f/r selector broke.
It looked like a good lathe project with very tight tolerance on the od. There is only 1 seal for the selector, its on the rear cover, an o-ring. The disks and the button next to the detent area are all tight tolerance areas that keep the air in the right places. I made the thin areas that broke .2" instead of .1", and both buttons are .07" longer for an easier press.
I can't tell a difference in power with the thicker small areas. I compared it to my Mac 3/8" impact gun, and the Snap-On gun has way more power.
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I'll chime in on what I learned on youtube (NOT FIRSTHAND) from multiple utube personalities.
Using a bearing requires an absolutely clean path for the steady rest. With a bearing, the chip will wind up going through the bearing and turned piece, get squished and wind up pushing the turned piece off center.

With a brass finger, it's more like a wiper and reduces the chance of being pushed off center.

Both are valuable, but there are different advantages / risks. I am making a rub version.

Hmm. Makes sense. Maybe, I'll make some brass fingers to go with it.

I see Little Machine Shop sells both versions.
 
Wire harness rubber cover was worn... but the wires inside were fine. So covered everything with some better quality abrasive resistant and fire retardant sleeve.. All wiring done and tested.

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Previous owner was kind enough to label everything when he took it apart for shipping...

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Only need to extract a broken bolt on the base (upper right on the photo above) and make a cover for it... Since bottom cover was missing.

And this is the time it takes to stop after I switch it off (and unplugged):

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I am going to have to install resistors on the capacitors so that they discharge quicker... Good thing it will be used for buffing wheels...

EDIT: Done! Just waiting for the flanges/washers to arrive...

 
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Today's quick project was to make a screen for the fuel filler of white elephant No:2 someone has helped herself to all of its diesel fuel. There is 10 ways they can go about stealing but this eliminates the easiest. I used some 3mm thick screen cut it till i could get it sideways then i used couple of drywall screws to secure it and they go in the holder for the pump nozzle so i won't cause any vacuum leaks with the evap system. That said its a diesel they aren't so concerned with evap. I'm pretty good at keeping my cars safe even my brother's cars have GPS and cameras but my brother isn't used to using the technology, funny enough this exact car has 3 gps units with 3 different companies and their accuracy is so different it's scary.
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A neighbor wanted a 327 to put in a pickup he is fixing up, and we just happened to know someone who had a stash. We bought two blocks, two sets of camel hump heads, a crankshaft, and I ended up with this antique mechanical service jack. to make a long story short the block and crank are back from the machine shop, Monday, my son and I installed the cam bearings and core plugs, and I get to start putting it together, got the crank in today, to be continued.
 

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I bought this 3/8" impact gun used. This thing is an animal, amazingly powerful for a 3/8" impact gun. So, I used it for a bit after taking it apart and cleaning it. Everything was going well untill the f/r selector broke.
It looked like a good lathe project with very tight tolerance on the od. There is only 1 seal for the selector, its on the rear cover, an o-ring. The disks and the button next to the detent area are all tight tolerance areas that keep the air in the right places. I made the thin areas that broke .2" instead of .1", and both buttons are .07" longer for an easier press.
I can't tell a difference in power with the thicker small areas. I compared it to my Mac 3/8" impact gun, and the Snap-On gun has way more power.
View attachment 386764
I have the Blue Point version I bought new back in 2005. Yeah she will twist some stuff for a 3/8s.
 
A buddy that likes the shooting sports (the one I made the concentricity tool a year ago) asked me to replace the barrel on his Glock 27 subcompact. He also asked if I could do a color match from the stainless slide to the greenish-brown frame. So, I did some Cerakote (a mixture of black, burnt bronze, and eastern front green):

20211122_135935.jpg


And then I had to track down a new barrel for him. Unfortunately, replacement barrels are not easy to come by unless you are setting up for competitions, I guess. The only barrels I could find were about an inch longer than the stock one. So, I tracked one down that was stainless, and then set about cutting it down to stock size.

Now, I don't trust outside and inside barrel concentricity - so I had to build a long bar with a center drilled on one end, a short groove on the other end for an indicator, and a 3" section turned down to the same diameter of the gauge pin that fit the inside.

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Then I got it parted off, and used it to hold the barrel while I trimmed it down to stock lengths.

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Looks good to me! I hope he'll let me test it, too.
 
fixed up my total blunder from yesterday.
 
I've always wanted to buy one of those cam instillation tools but I needed one today, so I built one. It works fine in this configuration but I'll trim it down later. I ended up having to scrape a tight can bearing, easier to do on the table than the engine stand. I also had to massage the keys on the crankshaft to get the sprocket on. I always pour some oil in the small hole (marked by the white arrow) to provide some extra lube to the cam bearings, you know you've put in enough when it leaks out of the oil pump connection.
 

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