-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
2020 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter eugene13
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2018
- Messages
- 1,400
Not my project, but my son just sent this to me.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,455
Today i got straight to work to make the ladder for the inspection pit, my phone was on a charger so i only took photos after i finished welding it, prime it and throw on the first coat, you can see i choose to paint it blue, the tails in the garage are blue so i thought it's a bright color and should match. As for the ladder itself, i used two pieces of 1" x 2" square tubing and one more piece of flat steel, with couple of mm overhang on the front to provide more grip when climbing, also i did not grind the welds in the middle too much and apply couple more coats of paint on the footings, for the sides i used oversized tubing just to have more space for longer footings.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,455
The Fix on the 605 works, my temp is right at 85 degrees, that said i'm still lacking power, i've noticed it's not blowing black smoke at all, this car is mechanical diesel, so not much diagnosis needed, i need a new membrane for the boost reference. After few phone calls no one has one, i took out the one in my spare pump, it is also hard and drove to the main city (skopje) to the main importer for diesel parts and managed to find one 15$, not cheap. When i come out i've seen this impala next to my 605 with machigan plates.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,394
I needed a 0.499" pilot for a 5/8" counterbore to make some space for a couple of bushings on my NutCrusher Mk1, which also entailed getting the broken pilot out of my 5/8" counterbore. No idea what was down there, but the set screw was not coming out and I dimly remember chipping a carbide drill trying to drill it out. Put it on the mill and used a carbide endmill which did the trick. Still couldn't get it out though, so heated the snot out of the shank with a MAPP torch then whacked a rod down the center of the counterbore. That got it out 
New pilot made from W2 (not hardened though), my own 3/8" pilot that I had glued in there and the original whoknowswhat that was stuck down there
I couldn't drill or tap the hole (it ate a 7/32 HSS endmill, which I then had to resharpen..), so used a bit of rod and a hose clamp. Seems to hold pretty well, but we'll see how it works in use!
New pilot made from W2 (not hardened though), my own 3/8" pilot that I had glued in there and the original whoknowswhat that was stuck down there
I couldn't drill or tap the hole (it ate a 7/32 HSS endmill, which I then had to resharpen..), so used a bit of rod and a hose clamp. Seems to hold pretty well, but we'll see how it works in use!
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,633
POTD was modifying an ER32 collet rack I have mounted to my Bridgeport. The rack has Delrin or some other sort of plastic material pins screwed to an aluminum base, collets slip over with a little bit of an interference fit. It makes for a handy storage area for the collets and other "stuff" though I think I've only ever used the 1/8", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" collets.
Bridgeport collet rack with an electronic edge finder, ER32 collets, 3/4" combo wrench, spanner wrench and straight-shanked drill chucks.
I bought a couple of the Rocky Mountain CNC Solutions ER32 bearing-type collet nuts so out of laziness I could leave the frequently used collets already staged with a nut. Problem is, I didn't anticipate going that route years ago when I made the tray and didn't allow space for the nuts side by side. I figured the easy solution was to make some new longer pins for the heavily used collets.
Grabbed some plastic at hand and faced, tap drilled for a 10-24 thread, tapped, parted, flipped and turned a shoulder on the opposite side for a slip-fit with the ER32 collet.
Easy-peasy. . . Went to screw the pins on the rack and the screws were REALLY loose. The 10-24's didn't touch a thing. . .
Lessons learned for me, but apparently all 10-24 taps are not the same? New one on me.
10-24 tap up top, Morse "10-24" tap on the bottom
The no-name 10-24 tap OD was 0.1935ish, Morse 10-24 was 0.2465?!?!
Did I miss something on this labeling?
The Morse 10-24's were WAY over-size. The book on a 10-24 thread is an OD of 0.19" (Google), and a minor diameter of 0.1379". The Morse taps were 24 tpi, so the delta between major and minor should be the same. That puts the minor of the Morse taps at 0.1944" or clearance for a 10-24 screw. I included a picture of the tap packaging above. Maybe I missed something in the labeling? I understand there are different classes of threads, but whoa! In retrospect, I thought the tapping on the lathe was going a little hard and the tap did look large. I guess check twice, cut once.
I could have drilled out the aluminum plate to accept a larger screw for the oversized pins, but don't happen to have any 1/4" x 24 screws. . . I thought maybe mislabled metrics, but the OD would work out of 6.26 mm and the pitch was dead on 24 tpi (not 25.4 or 1 mm pitch).
New pins on collet rack
Easy grab and go with the collet nuts already on the most-used collets.
I ended up remaking the pins which threaded a little easier on the lathe with the correct tap. By the way, those Rocky Mountain CNC Solution ER32 collet nuts are VERY smooth. I bought them directly from the factory in CO for $20 each delivered.
Thanks for looking, Bruce
Bridgeport collet rack with an electronic edge finder, ER32 collets, 3/4" combo wrench, spanner wrench and straight-shanked drill chucks.
I bought a couple of the Rocky Mountain CNC Solutions ER32 bearing-type collet nuts so out of laziness I could leave the frequently used collets already staged with a nut. Problem is, I didn't anticipate going that route years ago when I made the tray and didn't allow space for the nuts side by side. I figured the easy solution was to make some new longer pins for the heavily used collets.
Grabbed some plastic at hand and faced, tap drilled for a 10-24 thread, tapped, parted, flipped and turned a shoulder on the opposite side for a slip-fit with the ER32 collet.
Easy-peasy. . . Went to screw the pins on the rack and the screws were REALLY loose. The 10-24's didn't touch a thing. . .
Lessons learned for me, but apparently all 10-24 taps are not the same? New one on me.
10-24 tap up top, Morse "10-24" tap on the bottom
The no-name 10-24 tap OD was 0.1935ish, Morse 10-24 was 0.2465?!?!
Did I miss something on this labeling?
The Morse 10-24's were WAY over-size. The book on a 10-24 thread is an OD of 0.19" (Google), and a minor diameter of 0.1379". The Morse taps were 24 tpi, so the delta between major and minor should be the same. That puts the minor of the Morse taps at 0.1944" or clearance for a 10-24 screw. I included a picture of the tap packaging above. Maybe I missed something in the labeling? I understand there are different classes of threads, but whoa! In retrospect, I thought the tapping on the lathe was going a little hard and the tap did look large. I guess check twice, cut once.
I could have drilled out the aluminum plate to accept a larger screw for the oversized pins, but don't happen to have any 1/4" x 24 screws. . . I thought maybe mislabled metrics, but the OD would work out of 6.26 mm and the pitch was dead on 24 tpi (not 25.4 or 1 mm pitch).
New pins on collet rack
Easy grab and go with the collet nuts already on the most-used collets.
I ended up remaking the pins which threaded a little easier on the lathe with the correct tap. By the way, those Rocky Mountain CNC Solution ER32 collet nuts are VERY smooth. I bought them directly from the factory in CO for $20 each delivered.
Thanks for looking, Bruce
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 9,194
Bruce,
I found this:
https://www.travers.com/sti-taps/c/297765/
that states:
That would have got me too!
-brino
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,633
