2020 POTD Thread Archive

All you automotive restorers, help!! This probably is the wrong place to ask the question. But it is a (long term) project that I have a stumbling point on. I am refitting a '68 Chev C-30 dump truck. It is not a restoration, if I find a usable '49 cab, that's what will be fitted. A long term job that is "something to do" as much as make it usable. It ran when I acquired it, I just didn't want to put it on the highway with a couple of broken wheel studs. My problem now is with the fuel pump and my lack of memory and lack of ability to walk. A friend is helping, a service station mechanic (jack leg) whose background is '70s Chryslers. He doesn't know the history of GM products. The parts house attendants don't go much farther back than a 305. Some have stated "There ain't no such thing".

My rememberance of GM V-8s is that the first entry was a 265 CID. The 265 was punched to make a 283. The 283 was stroked to make a 327. When the 283 was stroked into a 327, it became necessary to use a push rod off a cam on the cam shaft to drive the fuel pump. The fuel pump no longer would reach the camshaft. Do I have this sequence correct? The fuel pump has been changed 3 times now. In all three cases, the replacement does not work.

One of the factors I have been considering is that the pushrod of a 327 was held in place with an old hacksaw blade when the pump was reinserted. Maybe I have a 327????? It really matters only as far as the fuel pump. I'd much rather have a 292-6. Such parts today are likely made in China. I would buy having one fail "off the shelf". But three, from 3 different sources!?!? Something isn't being done right.

Another possibility is/was there a different design for truck engines? I recall working as a teen for a mechanic that had as customers several local trucking firms. I've had lock ring tires blow off the rims, but never changed a fuel pump. I was warned about the rims early on. Several bounced off the roof, but it never leaked. Must have been a strong roof. . . A couple of the firms had 1-1/2 ton gas jobs. A 20 ft box van with the bulldog nose on the cab, with a 283 engine.

Any ideas out there??
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Sounds like too many mechanics in the house, My guess will be, someone installed the wrong fuel pump pushrod guide plastic or bakelite paice behind the pump, that changed your pushrod depth maybe even the angle at wich it rides on the cam lobe. My advice is to remove it, and inspect the cam lobe. I've never worked on those engines, but i've seen what i've experienced it done many times. Your quick and easy option will be just to fit an electric fuel pump, now days they are cheaper than mechanical ones and seem to last.
20170422_130032.jpg
 
Bi11Hudson said:
All you automotive restorers, help!! This probably is the wrong place to ask the question. But it is a (long term) project that I have a stumbling point on. I am refitting a '68 Chev C-30 dump truck. It is not a restoration, if I find a usable '49 cab, that's what will be fitted. A long term job that is "something to do" as much as make it usable. It ran when I acquired it, I just didn't want to put it on the highway with a couple of broken wheel studs. My problem now is with the fuel pump and my lack of memory and lack of ability to walk. A friend is helping, a service station mechanic (jack leg) whose background is '70s Chryslers. He doesn't know the history of GM products. The parts house attendants don't go much farther back than a 305. Some have stated "There ain't no such thing".

My rememberance of GM V-8s is that the first entry was a 265 CID. The 265 was punched to make a 283. The 283 was stroked to make a 327. When the 283 was stroked into a 327, it became necessary to use a push rod off a cam on the cam shaft to drive the fuel pump. The fuel pump no longer would reach the camshaft. Do I have this sequence correct? The fuel pump has been changed 3 times now. In all three cases, the replacement does not work.

One of the factors I have been considering is that the pushrod of a 327 was held in place with an old hacksaw blade when the pump was reinserted. Maybe I have a 327????? It really matters only as far as the fuel pump. I'd much rather have a 292-6. Such parts today are likely made in China. I would buy having one fail "off the shelf". But three, from 3 different sources!?!? Something isn't being done right.

Another possibility is/was there a different design for truck engines? I recall working as a teen for a mechanic that had as customers several local trucking firms. I've had lock ring tires blow off the rims, but never changed a fuel pump. I was warned about the rims early on. Several bounced off the roof, but it never leaked. Must have been a strong roof. . . A couple of the firms had 1-1/2 ton gas jobs. A 20 ft box van with the bulldog nose on the cab, with a 283 engine.

Any ideas out there??
.
Click to expand...
All of the early small block Chevy motors used a pushrod between the cam and the fuel pump. Its not unusual for it to fall down and not be in the right place to actuate the pump. The way I learned to install them is to push them all the way In while turning the engine over. You want to be on the small side of the cam. Next there are 2 bolt wholes in the front of the block one of them lines up with the pushrod. Take that bolt out and install a longer one just tight enough to hold the rod in place. Now install the fuel pump. Once the pump is in place make sure to take the long bolt out and put the short one back in.
Hope this helps
 
I cleaned up my new-to-me bandsaw amd fitted a new Lenox 10 TPI blade.
Cuts through 1/4” steel plate like a lukewarm knife through butter :)
Actually I’m pretty impressed to be honest.
Took a 3M maroon belt to the table.
Before (well partially done actually...)
27e4659bac281374d52e96ccd177f55a.jpg


After:
801fd7164724ac776a797f0997a17205.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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ACHiPo said:
Better titled "what I didn't quite get done in my shop yesterday, but definitely will finish today".

I ordered a HF tool cart--great reviews, yada yada. The reviews suggested ordering a pair of 6" rotating wheel casters to replace the 2 fixed wheels. Great idea, as I don't like trying to maneuver my 48" tool chest with only two rotating wheels.

The cart came a couple weeks ago, but fires, heat, work, etc. kept me from starting until yesterday. Figured on an hour. Well 6 hours in, I still hadn't started assembly. The 6" casters I bought are 6", but the ones that came on the tool cart are 6 1/2". No problem, I have tools. I'll make spacers. I did. It just took me a really long time.

They are pretty, though. :laughing:

Finishing my coffee and heading out to actually assemble the tool cart.
Click to expand...


When I start a new project I have to figure in "The Chuck Factor"
Because it takes Chuck 3 times as long as everyone else.
2 times as much material as it should
And every tool in the shop.

Chuck
 
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