2020 POTD Thread Archive

[DavidR8]

Cool!

Now I can start chopping up the warehouse cart I bought to turn it into a welding cart


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[francist]

And so it goes...

 

[Gaffer]

I spent the day installing a 20A 110VAC outlet and a 30A 240VAC circuit for my mill (VFD, DRO, etc.). I thought I had the VFD programming figured out so that I could leave the VFD powered up, and use the drum switch to control forward, reverse and stop/off. Power wise, everything works as it should. The VFD controls the motor, but only at the VFD. The drum switch doesn't do anything. I'll read more about programming the digital inputs to the VFD tonight and hopefully get it working tomorrow.

 

[akjeff]

Finished making a new head for my drawbar wrench/hammer. My Rockwell had a 13/16" hex on the drawbar, and the soon new to me Lagun, has a 3/4" like a BP. Since it was an oddball size, I passed on the head to my buddy, that bought the Rockwell. Now the wait begins, for the FTV-1 to arrive!

 

[hman]

Very nice looking!

 

[Tim9]

BiHudson. I used real thick fiber type bearing grease to hold stuff like push rods in place and then went with just as you described with the hacksaw blade. Plus as mentioned... you need that fiber spacer too. That the best I’ve got but it’s been 20 years for me too.

 

[akjeff]

Very nice looking!

Thanks! Sure is handy.

 

[rwm]

David-3M maroon belt? As in belt sander? It looks pretty good. Next time try electrolytic derusting.
R
AKJeff- Fine looking instrument. I have one of those in the pipeline. How did you attach the socket to the head?
R

 

[GoceKU]

Last few days have been pretty hectic at work and in my home shop, i had to repair an sub axle form an JD hey Harvester and make an a new wheel hub because the original cast part has split in half, unfortunately i lost the photos from make them. In the meanwhile my brother's Ford broke again, the starter failed, it failed engaged, so even with a push start it could not be driven. And it did it in the tightest part of town where a tow truck won't fit. So i went with the 605 to get it towed, got the towing hook out removed the cap and guess what, there is not threads for the hook to thread into, removed the grill look at the back and the threads are on the other side, someone at the factory installed it upside down, so i got a seat belt wrapped it and attached my towing rope to it. Got it home removed the starter and found the smallest starter ever, it actually has 4 magnets and the rotor is big as the wiper motor on a Lada. Resetting the solenoid was easy changing the brushes a bit more difficult, i also had to clean it. You can see the difference in size on the brushes. Reassemble it and now it good as new, you can see how little space i had to get the starter motor in and out.

 

[silverhawk]

All you automotive restorers, help!! This probably is the wrong place to ask the question. But it is a (long term) project that I have a stumbling point on. I am refitting a '68 Chev C-30 dump truck. It is not a restoration, if I find a usable '49 cab, that's what will be fitted. A long term job that is "something to do" as much as make it usable. It ran when I acquired it, I just didn't want to put it on the highway with a couple of broken wheel studs. My problem now is with the fuel pump and my lack of memory and lack of ability to walk. A friend is helping, a service station mechanic (jack leg) whose background is '70s Chryslers. He doesn't know the history of GM products. The parts house attendants don't go much farther back than a 305. Some have stated "There ain't no such thing".

My rememberance of GM V-8s is that the first entry was a 265 CID. The 265 was punched to make a 283. The 283 was stroked to make a 327. When the 283 was stroked into a 327, it became necessary to use a push rod off a cam on the cam shaft to drive the fuel pump. The fuel pump no longer would reach the camshaft. Do I have this sequence correct? The fuel pump has been changed 3 times now. In all three cases, the replacement does not work.

One of the factors I have been considering is that the pushrod of a 327 was held in place with an old hacksaw blade when the pump was reinserted. Maybe I have a 327????? It really matters only as far as the fuel pump. I'd much rather have a 292-6. Such parts today are likely made in China. I would buy having one fail "off the shelf". But three, from 3 different sources!?!? Something isn't being done right.

Another possibility is/was there a different design for truck engines? I recall working as a teen for a mechanic that had as customers several local trucking firms. I've had lock ring tires blow off the rims, but never changed a fuel pump. I was warned about the rims early on. Several bounced off the roof, but it never leaked. Must have been a strong roof. . . A couple of the firms had 1-1/2 ton gas jobs. A 20 ft box van with the bulldog nose on the cab, with a 283 engine.

Any ideas out there??
.

All that talk about cam lobes and such would have me checking the GM stamp on the engine to identify it and make sure I was looking at the right thing. Look up the engine codes for the engine block. Stroking or increasing cylinder diameter for the cubic inches doesn't move the crankshaft in relation to the block, but a new engine block casting will.

If you must know the engine size, you will need to pull an engine head and check the bore diameter and the stroke length of the piston, but i really think you need the block identification first. That's the one that will tell you the origin of the engine, and should translate to a good fuel pump.

Another alternative, since you aren't restoring, is to install a block-off plate for where the pump is and install an electric pump.

joe