2020 POTD Thread Archive

Well, my project of the day was replacing the shock absorbers on the GMC motorhome.

Much more involved than at first anticipated. Even required getting some new tools to ease the process.

The rear suspension of these RVs is an air suspended double axle bogie that is a bit fussy as to how you jack it up. Can't just put a jack underneath the frame anywhere, it has to be at specified lifting points or else you risk bending the frame or skewing the air suspension.

First off, the lug nuts are specified to be tightened to 250 ft lb., so at least that much is required to remove them I discovered that was much more than any of my existing impact tools was capable of. I beat on the lug nuts with the tools I had and got several nuts loose but the rest were stubborn, Although I am somewhat skeptical of Freight Harbor tools, they have some well-reviewed higher power impacts that seemed worth a try.

Purchase #1:
Shocks_2.jpg

While I was there I also figured that a 16.5" steel wheel and tire combination would be pretty heavy and awkward to manage dismounting and mounting back on the RV - so I got a 'tire lifter' that is supposed to lift 1/4 of a 5000# car (well, maybe) but should certainly lift at least one disconnected wheel.
Shocks_5.jpg

And (here's the "shop project part" of the post) according to the GMC user's group it is easier to raise the rear wheels if you have a shim to hold the bogies up a bit so less jacking is needed. It's just a piece of 3/8 x 2.5" HRS about 12-14" long. I didn't have any 3/8" bar stock that narrow so I took a piece of 4" that I did have and sheared it down to 2 1/2" on the ironworker. Faster than plasma cutting and less chance of starting a forest fire. That's a concern here right now - but that's another posting.

Shocks_3.jpg

So, fully tooled I attacked the motorhome.

I lifted the coach with a floor jack enough to take some weight off the axles and hold it up for further processing. The HF impact wrench actually spun the nuts off in record time, like they were only hand-tight. Wow! Time will tell how long the tool will last but for this need it filled the bill.

Once the lug nuts were a bit loosened I jacked it up far enough to insert the shim. Easy peasy. Then deflate the airbag to reduce strain on the bogie arms and jack some more until both tires were off the ground.

The tire lifter worked like a charm to manhandle the wheel/tire off the rig, the replacement of the shock absorbers went fairly straightforward and everything went back together quite nicely.

Shocks_1.jpg

The whole shebang looked like this mid project. You can just see one end of the lifting shim (the red bit) mid photo. The new shocks had pretty tough springs inside them so a strap clamp was used to compress each shock until it fit in the the mounting holes. That's the orange snake in the picture.

Shocks_4.jpg

Finally, torquing the lug nuts back to factory spec (250 ft lb) was beyond the capability of my existing supply of torque wrenches - so I got them to 150 and ordered a wrench with 250# range. They'll hold at 150 and be at 250 later.

First shock took two hours, subsequent about 20 minutes each. Feels like an accomplishment!
 
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@gr8legs, What is your plan for fixing a flat on the side of the road (on a mountain pass in a winter storm... etc.) when you need to develop 9 million foot-lbs of torque to change a tire? I'd either get an electric impact that can run off of your onboard power, or search up what is called a "torque multiplier", which is basically a planetary gear reduction for a ratchet and breaker bar, and keep that in the tool box in case of emergency.

They make these in several sizes. Once upon a time, I ran a 120,000 lb. tracked recovery vehicle. The only way to do anything on that beast in field conditions was to use the old torque multiplier with a hydraulic impact because 1300 ft-lb sometimes wasn't enough.

images
 
Well, my project of the day was replacing the shock absorbers on the GMC motorhome.

Much more involved than at first anticipated. Even required getting some new tools to ease the process.

The rear suspension of these RVs is an air suspended double axle bogie that is a bit fussy as to how you jack it up. Can't just put a jack underneath the frame anywhere, it has to be at specified lifting points or else you risk bending the frame or skewing the air suspension.

First off, the lug nuts are specified to be tightened to 250 ft lb., so at least that much is required to remove them I discovered that was much more than any of my existing impact tools was capable of. I beat on the lug nuts with the tools I had and got several nuts loose but the rest were stubborn, Although I am somewhat skeptical of Freight Harbor tools, they have some well-reviewed higher power impacts that seemed worth a try.

Purchase #1:
View attachment 336922

While I was there I also figured that a 16.5" steel wheel and tire combination would be pretty heavy and awkward to manage dismounting and mounting back on the RV - so I got a 'tire lifter' that is supposed to lift 1/4 of a 5000# car (well, maybe) but should certainly lift at least one disconnected wheel.
View attachment 336924

And (here's the "shop project part" of the post) according to the GMC user's group it is easier to raise the rear wheels if you have a shim to hold the bogies up a bit so less jacking is needed. It's just a piece of 3/8 x 2.5" HRS about 12-14" long. I didn't have any 3/8" bar stock that narrow so I took a piece of 4" that I did have and sheared it down to 2 1/2" on the ironworker. Faster than plasma cutting and less chance of starting a forest fire. That's a concern here right now - but that's another posting.

View attachment 336921

So, fully tooled I attacked the motorhome.

I lifted the coach with a floor jack enough to take some weight off the axles and hold it up for further processing. The HF impact wrench actually spun the nuts off in record time, like they were only hand-tight. Wow! Time will tell how long the tool will last but for this need it filled the bill.

Once the lug nuts were a bit loosened I inserted the adapter shim into the suspension to hold up the bogie arms and jacked it up far enough to insert the shim. Easy peasy. Then deflate the airbag to reduce strain on the bogie arms and jack some more until both tires were off the ground.

The tire lifter worked like a charm to manhandle the wheel/tire off the rig, the replacement of the shock absorbers went fairly straightforward and everything went back together quite nicely.

View attachment 336920

The whole shebang looked like this mid project. You can just see one end of the lifting shim (the red bit) mid photo. The new shocks had pretty tough springs inside them so a strap clamp was used to compress each shock until it fit in the the mounting holes. That's the orange snake in the picture.

View attachment 336923

Finally, torquing the lug nuts back to factory spec (250 ft lb) was beyond the capability of my existing supply of torque wrenches - so I got them to 150 and ordered a wrench with 250# range. They'll hold at 150 and be at 250 later.

First shock took two hours, subsequent about 20 minutes each. Feels like an accomplishment!
Oh man! You have the “Stripes” motorhome! Awesome. I’ve considered one of the Earthquake impacts....so you have all positive experiences with it huh?
 
POTD was reading the electrical cabinet wiring schematic for my Tormach 1100 Series 3 mill. As you can guess, if I'm reading the electrical schematic, I must of had a problem. . . .

Was setting up to run a part; locked it in the vise, probed a corner and top surface to set the coordinates, pulled the probe and hit CYCLE START. The auto tool changer grabbed the right tool, routine was about to start then everything went dark. . . All of my 115V "stuff" was dead. E-stopped the machine, shut everything off and fired it back up to no avail.

The computer controller, monitor and coolant pump all get power from the mill's electrical cabinet. I could fire up the stepper motors, but read nothing at the 115V outlets. I plugged the monitor and PathPilot controller into an extension cord plugged to a wall socket and they did fire up. I could also control the table/column/spindle from the jog shuttle/keyboard and touch-screen. That told me the controller wasn't fried, and it was communicating properly to the electrical panel and the machine control board.

Minor kludging to get back up and running. I plugged my coolant pump into a wireless outlet as it would have to be manually turned on/off until I figured out the real problem. Easy to hit an ON/OFF switch on the FOB to run the pump. Well, the pump wouldn't run. When I bought the mill, the previous owner used a 1/2 HP sump pump for coolant. Motor was very hot to the touch also.

Looking at the electrical schematic, the most likely suspect was a 6A fuse which protects the 115V circuits for the pump, monitor and controller. Sure enough, it was blown. I suspect the pump had frozen up and popped the fuse when the routine called for coolant to come on.


A look inside the Tormach 1100 electrical panel. The red LED lit up on the RH side indicates that fuse FU6 is blown. Guess I now know if the LED is on, that's a bad thing.
20200912_195043.jpg


I ended up replacing the 1/2 HP pump with a 1/4 HP pump and did some changes to the coolant system plumbing. The 1/2 HP pump was rated at a peak of 3000 gph, 1/4 HP is 1200 gph. I typically run coolant at less than 60 gph, so no issue with less max delivery.

The previous owner had plumbed the output of the pump to a house water filter, then a ball valve to control outlet flow. I questioned this at the time but didn't take any action as the ball valve was nearly choked off to get the flow at the outlet of the LOC LINEs to a reasonable level. I suspect the pump may have nuked from only getting 2% of its rated flow through the ball valve.


Green hose is the inlet. Coolant runs through a house water filter, then a 'T' to a wash down hose (blue hose) and then a ball valve to control flow at the mill's coolant lines. The valve handle at vertical is shut off, this is the position I'd normally run it in. If I ran high flow through the valve, it was really tough to regulate the coolant flow at the Loc Line valves. I even blew a Loc Line apart in the past leaving it at high flow.
20200913_133617.jpg


My original plan was to plump the output through a shower mixer with one line running to the mill's coolant lines and the other to a line back into the coolant tank. That way the pump isn't getting dead-headed as I choke down the outlet at the mill. Was digging through our garden hose fittings and found a better/cheaper mixer: a simple garden hose "Y". The pump outlet now runs into the "Y" with a hose going right back into the tank and the other to the original set up. The pump should run much happier now, though I believe some pumps can handle being dead-headed.


New coolant pump and the shower mixing valve for the original plumbing plan.
20200913_123246.jpg

Ended up running the pump outlet through a "Y" with one line going directly back into the coolant tank and the other up to the mill.
20200913_133752.jpg

No issues with coolant now. If I open the Loc Line valves completely open, it'll shoot coolant 6' away.
20200913_134342.jpg

Had to fab up an 'anchor' to hold the diverted line in the tank. Yeah, fired up the pump and shot the hose out of the tank
20200913_142604.jpg


Alas, no extra 6A fuses to get everything back to normal, but my work around is at least functional. Amazon says 3 days for replacements.

Thanks for looking,

Bruce
 
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Great fix! Does the new pump also want 6 amps, or might you go to a smaller fuse? Also - how easy would it be to pick the "diverted line" out of the tank and use it for wash down?
 
Just as a note most pumps use more power and heat up quicker with more flow. Most pumps found on cncs are perfectly ok with being restricted.

For a learning lesson my Mazak pump was over heating on a job. I had increased the outlet size.

Solution was to put a valve on it to restrict the flow.
 
Great fix! Does the new pump also want 6 amps, or might you go to a smaller fuse? Also - how easy would it be to pick the "diverted line" out of the tank and use it for wash down?
Hi John,

I think the Tormach originally came with a 1/8 HP pump, so I'm pushing it a little with the 1/4 hp but should be fine since the 1/2 hp worked okay for the last year. I don't recall the watts for 1 hp, think it's around 750 or ~6 amps at 115v. I'm at a touch over 1.6 amps for the pump, think there's a bit of higher surge current on the initial start up. It's stock with a fast-blow fuse. I'm not an electrician, but think they must want it to blow right away or they'd have used a slow-blow(?)

I could use the diverted line by sticking a garden sprayer on the end and leave it open in normal use. Close it to pick it out of the tank then spray away. I didn't show a good picture of it but already have a wash down hose/garden sprayer in my enclosure. It's the blue coiled hose just upstream from the ball valve. I use it by pressing the coolant button on the touch screen then hose away.

Bruce
 
Just as a note most pumps use more power and heat up quicker with more flow. Most pumps found on cncs are perfectly ok with being restricted.

For a learning lesson my Mazak pump was over heating on a job. I had increased the outlet size.

Solution was to put a valve on it to restrict the flow.
Thanks for the tip. Would make sense that the pump would spin faster with no restrictions. The 'Y' at the pump has ball valves so I can choke it down. Maybe do a little experiment with an ammeter on the motor cord and see how it affects draw as it's choked down. I'd have to look at the specs to see the max lift, seems like it was at least 20 feet so some choking down shouldn't hurt.

Bruce
 
Thanks for the tip. Would make sense that the pump would spin faster with no restrictions. The 'Y' at the pump has ball valves so I can choke it down. Maybe do a little experiment with an ammeter on the motor cord and see how it affects draw as it's choked down. I'd have to look at the specs to see the max lift, seems like it was at least 20 feet so some choking down shouldn't hurt.

Bruce

Yea fluid dynamics is weird. But it does depend on the type of pump. The ammeter is the easiest way to find the sweet spot.
 
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