2020 POTD Thread Archive

[DavidR8]

David-3M maroon belt? As in belt sander? It looks pretty good. Next time try electrolytic derusting.
R

Yes, it’s on my belt sander. Works fantastic on cast iron that doesn’t require precision.
I do want to try electrolytic derusting.


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[akjeff]

David-3M maroon belt? As in belt sander? It looks pretty good. Next time try electrolytic derusting.
R
AKJeff- Fine looking instrument. I have one of those in the pipeline. How did you attach the socket to the head?
R

Thanks rwm. The socket is screwed to a nub turned to 1/2" and then milled to a 3/8" square to slip fit in the 3/8" drive of the socket. It's drilled/tapped 1/4-20 for a screw/washer retainer. The brass hammer has a 3/8-16 nub on it that threads into the hammer head, as does the handle.

 

[Gaffer]

Coffee break. I got the programming for the VFD figured out pretty quickly this morning. Now my mill functions completely via the drum switch. Then I hard-wired my new-to-me Colchester lathe. I removed the gear cover and with the exception of old grease and some swarf, it looks great. I'll clean and lube it, and I need to buy and add oil to the headstock. It's still at an acceptable level, but I appear to have a very slow leak, unless that's normal. I'm about out of excuses for putting this equipment to work .

 

[akjeff]

Coffee break. I got the programming for the VFD figured out pretty quickly this morning. Now my mill functions completely via the drum switch. Then I hard-wired my new-to-me Colchester lathe. I removed the gear cover and with the exception of old grease and some swarf, it looks great. I'll clean and lube it, and I need to buy and add oil to the headstock. It's still at an acceptable level, but I appear to have a very slow leak, unless that's normal. I'm about out of excuses for putting this equipment to work .

Nice. I'd like to eventually do the same with my VFD/mill. Initially going to get it running using the remote pad, which I've already tested/programmed, and ready to roll. The VFD controls are not very user friendly for things like tapping. The drum switch would be much mo better.
Love that picture in your avatar. Beautiful dog!

 

[Gaffer]

Thanks. That's Hanna. She's 4, and loves her tennis balls.

 

[silverhawk]

I didn't post this earlier last week when I had it done. I wanted a proper vacuum advance on the distributor, so I needed the venturi vacuum off of the carburetor. As this carburetor is venturi based, it already had the plumbing, just not the tube/nipple. Many folks drill and tap with a 1/8"NPT and just use a brass nipple from the hardware store, but I didn't want the look, I didn't want to go to the hardware store (anti-social), and I didn't want to buy one. I grabbed some brass hex bar I had laying around from a previous project, and drilled/turned the tube. I made it to match my old carb, actually. It was my first time using a cross slide stop to ensure I didn't bend it and to ensure it was relatively even on the outboard surface.

I cut it off and installed it to the metering panel.

I really had no idea when I started this journey what I'd end up being able to do. For example, yesterday, I needed another part for the car (oil pressure sensor was in a weird place with this "old" replacement engine). I made one, found it was not going to fit, and made another. The first one was drilled and milled, then turned round and threaded.

The second iteration (I was getting tired and didn't grab a photo until I was tapping the final hole) was turned on the lathe, then milled a few surfaces flat until I could get a wrench on it and have one for the adapter.

I'm not quite done tapping, but I'm close. Then I should be able to start the car again and REALLY tune the carburetor.

 

[Gaffer]

I didn't post this earlier last week when I had it done. I wanted a proper vacuum advance on the distributor, so I needed the venturi vacuum off of the carburetor. As this carburetor is venturi based, it already had the plumbing, just not the tube/nipple. Many folks drill and tap with a 1/8"NPT and just use a brass nipple from the hardware store, but I didn't want the look, I didn't want to go to the hardware store (anti-social), and I didn't want to buy one. I grabbed some brass hex bar I had laying around from a previous project, and drilled/turned the tube. I made it to match my old carb, actually. It was my first time using a cross slide stop to ensure I didn't bend it and to ensure it was relatively even on the outboard surface.

I cut it off and installed it to the metering panel.

I really had no idea when I started this journey what I'd end up being able to do. For example, yesterday, I needed another part for the car (oil pressure sensor was in a weird place with this "old" replacement engine). I made one, found it was not going to fit, and made another. The first one was drilled and milled, then turned round and threaded.

The second iteration (I was getting tired and didn't grab a photo until I was tapping the final hole) was turned on the lathe, then milled a few surfaces flat until I could get a wrench on it and have one for the adapter.

I'm not quite done tapping, but I'm close. Then I should be able to start the car again and REALLY tune the carburetor.

That's great and clever work!

 

[Bi11Hudson]

Just thinking about it,

1/4” steel plate?

The difference between steel plate and steel sheet is usually delineated at 1/4 inch. 10 gauge plate as opposed to 11 gauge sheet. Not a hard and fast "rule", just the consensus of all the mill hands I've worked with over the years.

On a different subject entirely, the poster above talks of building a vacuum tap for distributor advance. A beautiful job there. It might be of interest that there is a 1/16" pipe fitting. Primarily used by builders of large scale live steam models, it is not often seen elsewhere. I bring it up because the thread is the same as Nr10-24 just with a taper as a pipe fitting. A 10-24 screw thread can be used, with good sealing. As it happens, I have such a tap and die pair. And have used machine screw taps by mistake through inattantion to what I was doing a couple of times. It wasn't necessary to redo the job, just a bear to seal.

.

 

[silverhawk]

It might be of interest that there is a 1/16" pipe fitting. Primarily used by builders of large scale live steam models, it is not often seen elsewhere. I bring it up because the thread is the same as Nr10-24 just with a taper as a pipe fitting. A 10-24 screw thread can be used, with good sealing. As it happens, I have such a tap and die pair. And have used machine screw taps by mistake through inattantion to what I was doing a couple of times. It wasn't necessary to redo the job, just a bear to seal.

My pipe tap/die collection is minimal. The smallest one I have is a 1/4" NPT, so I couldn't have done it the other way without ordering some more taps (and I'd have to order those fittings, too, as the local big box store doesn't carry them). However, I'm going to keep that in mind, and even look for some good/high quality used individual taps/dies from eBay to bolster my selection. Thanks!

 

[extropic]

snip>
On a different subject entirely, the poster above talks of building a vacuum tap for distributor advance. A beautiful job there. It might be of interest that there is a 1/16" pipe fitting. Primarily used by builders of large scale live steam models, it is not often seen elsewhere. I bring it up because the thread is the same as Nr10-24 just with a taper as a pipe fitting. A 10-24 screw thread can be used, with good sealing. As it happens, I have such a tap and die pair. And have used machine screw taps by mistake through inattantion to what I was doing a couple of times. It wasn't necessary to redo the job, just a bear to seal.

Bill, is there a Standard associated with the 1/16 pipe thread you described?

Just to be clear, there is a 1/16 NPT (National Pipe Taper) size but it isn't the same as Bill is describing. 1/16 NPT is 27 (not 24) TPI and about 5/16" OD. The major diameter of a #10 is .190", so will fall through a 1/16 NPT tapped hole.

I am familiar with 10-32 threaded fittings often used in small (instrument/control) pneumatic systems. The 10-32 fittings that I've used were face sealed (washer or O-ring), not thread taper sealed as NPT.

Add in metric and BS (British Standard) fitting threads and you have to be very careful these days.