2017 POTD Thread Archive

Well, a bit of metal working, but more work with the paint brush and wire grinder - to do all the prep work. Decided to display my miniature locomotive in the annual local hobby railroad train show. This required new livery, as it had been laid up for years in a sad neglected state due to the advanced age of the prior owner. Figured I needed a deadline to ever get ‘er done so to speak.

Here’s some before and after pics.

Before - relegated to lay up status, after 68 years service.
C44217BF-8F39-423F-967B-ABEBBA536E90.jpegBEA1E562-AB80-4B65-836D-9AC24A74BAC8.jpeg

After a month in the paint shop. New Great Northern livery, ready for return to service! The black cab and green boiler jacket are powder coating. The rest is hand applied paint. Lettering is the original Great Northern RR font style vinyl graphics from Miracle Graphics.

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Displaying white ‘extra train’ classification flags on the pilot.

71AB0FA8-45EB-4FFA-9723-38B3660CCF0B.jpeg

Here’s a shot of the cab numbering and classification markings on the cab. The numerals 1065 and C-50 are actually Ottaway’s original manufacturing and class numbers for the loco. The build date is: 3/1950. “Cinder - Ella” is the loco’s original name.



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Glenn
 
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Yeah I remember you saying that about yours, and I immediately made the connection to mine as well. You may be on a better track than I, as my efforts did not completely remedy the noise. So, I may have have got part of it, but not all of it. I will keep an eye on it though and let you know. Mine is pretty loosey-goosey by now in some respects, but I don't really run it hard.

-frank

The arm that the block slides in was broken and welded on mine. Sure glad I wasn't around when it broke, imagine someone had to empty their drawers. Can't imagine how they broke it, a tool should shatter before that arm would break. Wonder if the two parts weren't aligned properly when it was welded and that caused bushings and maybe the sliding block to wear. The clunk in mine is at the back of the stroke. I should have went deeper when I had the ram off but it looked like an intimidating job to get the parts out of the body, Will have to some day.


Greg
 
I have a mind that the Peerless castings are a tad on the brittle side. I know all cast tends to be brittle, but I wonder if these are more so. When I picked up some spare parts up-Island from a guy, he had abandoned his machine because the quite substantial spindle/axle shaft had completely broken off the bull gear. My shaper has one corner of a rail casting broken off where you would lock a gib screw during a cut. And now you tell of a broken arm. Hmmm, be careful.

-frank
 
Thats really interesting. Maybe they used some special alloy for some reason.

Greg
 
Well, a bit of metal working, but more work with the paint brush and wire grinder - to do all the prep work. Decided to display my miniature locomotive in the annual local hobby railroad train show. This required new livery, as it had been laid up for years in a sad neglected state due to the advanced age of the prior owner. Figured I needed a deadline to ever get ‘er done so to speak.

Here’s some before and after pics.

Before - relegated to lay up status, after 68 years service.
View attachment 250129View attachment 250130

After a month in the paint shop. New Great Northern livery, ready for return to service! The black cab and green boiler jacket are powder coating. The rest is hand applied paint. Lettering is the original Great Northern RR font style vinyl graphics from Miracle Graphics.

View attachment 250131

Displaying white ‘extra train’ classification flags on the pilot.
View attachment 250132

Here’s a shot of the cab numbering and classification markings on the cab. The numerals 1065 and C-50 are actually Ottaway’s original manufacturing and class numbers for the loco. The date built is 3/1950. “Cinder - Ella” is the loco’s original name.



View attachment 250134

Glenn
Spectacular! How many hours did that restoration take?
 
I wanted to make a small tap wrench for a friend at work. Copied a Starrett minus the taper. This is the finished product. Made some mistakes that aren't obvious in the photo but enough so that I mathumbnail_IMG_20171217_165025945[1].jpgy try again. It works well though. On a side note. To make the radius I ground an HSS tool bit which worked okay but of course chattered quite a bit. I was able to sand most of the chatter marks out. Anyway I thought I'd see how it would work turning a piece of aluminum and I'd have to say it leaves a beautiful finish.
 
Spectacular! How many hours did that restoration take?

Hahah. I counted by days and weeks, lost track of the hours.... took several weeks - almost a month- to decide on the paint scheme and exact colors and % of gloss. More time yet chasing powder coat matching colors. I committed to the repainting first of November. So overall about 6 weeks to get to this final stage.

So, actual time spent degreasing cylinder oil and dirt off the frameand running gear, them cleaning up various spots of rust was only about one week - say 25 hours. Actual painting was maybe 8 hours, spread over a week.

Having the cab and boiler jacket professionally powder coated saved a huge amount of time, and improved the overall finish immensely. This part got done in three days from start to finish.

Right Now into reassembly of all the mysterious steam pipes and fittings - estimating 30 actual hours to put everything back together - including fixing and replacing some fittings.

So total dissembly, prep, painting, reassembly, maybe 60 hours.

Glenn
 
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