2014 POTD Thread Archive

[Marco Bernardini]

This will keep metal shaving and debris from gathering under the base.

A very nice job, Mike!
May I give you my 0.02 euro suggestion?
Add a strip brush all around: this will help your cleaning duties, and will also save you some time to find that #@!¿%?# unique washer which decided to jump on the floor and behave like an ice hockey puck

 

[michiganbuck]

I frequently get these blades to sharpen from a company that does plastic injection molding. They come from a granulator. It's a machine that chops up all their scrap so that they can use it again.

View attachment 76805
After these blades kept coming back, and being asked to make a couple of sets (30 in a set) I made a little fixture that can hold them at the right angle for sharpening on the surface grinder.

View attachment 76806
I need to get the whole set with a reasonably accurate range (0.05mm - 2 thou) or it results in uneven clearances when mounting in the machine and then it does not perform as good as it should.

I have 54 of these lil critters to sharpen so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow, and quite possibly the next day too.

Raps,
Very nice holding fixture...
A simple sizing fixture we often used for matching size was a spotter block to set along side of the job in line with the grinding line of action. When you dial to the last part's zero swipe across the spotter until you see the grease begin to wipe.
It was a block with a bar set into an angle slot so it could ground flat top and be slid a little bit to raise or lower and held with a pair of set screws. It would be micrometer set to high limit (or one thou over then grind off the thou) of the part and greased with a grease pencil. With just swiping the grease we could run many pieces with not measuring or loosing size. Seems that jig setting just to the right of your job might be a help to a job like that.
Another help to a number of pieces that may come in again is a diamond that is a measured height.. perhaps 2 thou short of part height (or on size). So when you re-dress you know the new zero will be 2 thou higher than your dress (or on size). Use a junk micrometer to measure a diamond.
I might also have a block-in to the left that just bumps near (perhaps 1/8 in lower) the top of the left part. That would take away the chance of slipping under the holding screws of the left part and the right part bumping the other would secure the right part.

50 offs? Do you generate across or feed down?

 

[Rapscallion]

Raps,
Very nice holding fixture...
A simple sizing fixture we often used for matching size was a spotter block to set along side of the job in line with the grinding line of action. When you dial to the last part's zero swipe across the spotter until you see the grease begin to wipe.
It was a block with a bar set into an angle slot so it could ground flat top and be slid a little bit to raise or lower and held with a pair of set screws. It would be micrometer set to high limit (or one thou over then grind off the thou) of the part and greased with a grease pencil. With just swiping the grease we could run many pieces with not measuring or loosing size. Seems that jig setting just to the right of your job might be a help to a job like that.
Another help to a number of pieces that may come in again is a diamond that is a measured height.. perhaps 2 thou short of part height (or on size). So when you re-dress you know the new zero will be 2 thou higher than your dress (or on size). Use a junk micrometer to measure a diamond.
I might also have a block-in to the left that just bumps near (perhaps 1/8 in lower) the top of the left part. That would take away the chance of slipping under the holding screws of the left part and the right part bumping the other would secure the right part.

50 offs? Do you generate across or feed down?

Thanks for your input Michiganbuck, it is much appreciated.
I've been thinking of easier ways of measuring these and I will certainly be considering what you have said. One way that I have considered that would make the measuring easier, is to set up a DTI on a non-magnetic base and just measure the height of the blades while still in the fixture from the machine table. Simple but, it would beat the current method that I using which is taking them out of the fixture and putting them back if they still too high.

I drop the wheel down while it is off the work and then feed across. I keep the wear on the wheel quite even this way and it lasts longer between dresses.

 

[Rapscallion]

This morning I scrounged a bit of pipe from my long time friend and proceeded to make a crimping adapter sleeve the would allow me to place the handlebars that I want on my recently scrounged ($25) bicycle.


Bored the inside to suit the neck pipe that I made a couple of days ago.


Slide-in fit.


Turn down the outside to suit the handle bar clamp.


Slide-in fit.


Part/cut off the adapter sleeve.


Split the adapter sleeve so that it can crimp.


Ta Daaa... )

 

[Marco Bernardini]

View attachment 77299
Ta Daaa... )

Now all you need is a new tire… this one seems good for a Formula 1 car

 

[Rapscallion]

Now all you need is a new tire… this one seems good for a Formula 1 car

Lol, and the rear tire is just as bad. I hope it doesn't go as fast as an F1 car when I test drive ... err, ride it. Hope it doesn't pop on the way to the bicycle shop. :lmao:

 

[michiganbuck]

Thanks for your input Michiganbuck, it is much appreciated.
I've been thinking of easier ways of measuring these and I will certainly be considering what you have said. One way that I have considered that would make the measuring easier, is to set up a DTI on a non-magnetic base and just measure the height of the blades while still in the fixture from the machine table. Simple but, it would beat the current method that I using which is taking them out of the fixture and putting them back if they still too high.

I drop the wheel down while it is off the work and then feed across. I keep the wear on the wheel quite even this way and it lasts longer between dresses.

With using a spotter we would hold .001 or .0005 with only checking perhaps every fourth chuck loading of 4 parts and one spotter, checking one part of the 4. With the check we would go back to almost the top (or mid point) of limit and keep going. Down feed and pass full part was a method I used often. Takes just the right wheel grade and hardness. If enough stock removal to hole the wheel then a set dresser dress/one pass (perhaps-.001/.002 or what needed) and then skim last tweak of stock removal to make size.
For heavy down feed I would down feed to the left side of the wheel and go under a little slower for more pieces per hour. The free pass (part going to the left with no down feed) would let the part cool and would not be climb-grinding to suck the part ahead. That job I would likely try a 46 k or 46 I

 

[Cholmes]

2013 Gehl Telehandler, $135,000, 12' X 20' Daktronics HD LED Video system, $260,000. Almost rolling it over down a steep mountain side. PRICELESS!! This isn't actually in the shop but this is what we did today...I think I need to change my pants...

Chuck

 

[Marco Bernardini]

2013 Gehl Telehandler, $135,000, 12' X 20' Daktronics HD LED Video system, $260,000. Almost rolling it over down a steep mountain side. PRICELESS!! This isn't actually in the shop but this is what we did today...I think I need to change my pants...

Chuck

I guess the architect who required that setup was born here around: http://goo.gl/maps/wA00n :rofl:
As a punishment for him, that mega-screen must broadcast Tubalcain's videos for the next three days!

 

[Cholmes]

I guess the architect who required that setup was born here around: http://goo.gl/maps/wA00n :rofl:
As a punishment for him, that mega-screen must broadcast Tubalcain's videos for the next three days!

This is for the Dew Games, a 2 day ski and snowboard event at our SnowFlex Center, the only year round ski area in the US. It hangs from the lift the full weekend. We didn't have a problem until the safety interlock on the hydraulics slowed the machine down due to being past the 15 degree boom elevation, then the side tilt couldn't keep up with the slope roll off. If I hadn't dropped the display to the ground when I did, the whole thing would have rolled over. Ended up destroying one of the LED modules at a cost of $10k, but that's better than the alternative. This is the third year we have done this though next year they want a bigger display so we will be using a 500 ton crane at the bottom of the hill and booming out about 250' to the set up site.

Chuck