2014 POTD Thread Archive

working on foundry furnace ,from discarded helium tank . placed refractory friday,drying with 100 watt lamp 12 hour X5 days then small FIRE. started work today on forge,aftir shopping @salvage yard. picked up 280# about 15# of that unused 1/4" to 1" sch 40 pipe??????probably $70 worth at box store..
I KNOW NO PICS DID NOT HAPPEN,, pics tomorrow:whiteflag:



dpat odessa tx
 
The problem; The gooseneck lite on my lathe was at the tailstock end of the carriage and when I used my milling attachment the actual mill cut was in shadow because the lite was too far back to reach it. I made an angle iron bracket to mount the lite at the headstock end using the existing holes that were formerly used to mount the lite and the xslide retainer. While I was at it I included a mount for a dial indicator and a sliding stop that allows me to zero the DI anywhere along the xslide travel. I also put some extra holes in the angle iron mount for future gizmos like a mount for my cutting oil container or maybe a rack for drill chuck keys and allen wrenches.
Ed P

rsz_1dsc_1063.jpg DSC_1132.JPG DSC_1133.JPG DSC_1135.JPG
 
Not today, but this past weekend...
I wanted to make a shaft collar to attach to the z-axis lead screw on my g0704 mill:
6C6AB620-8257-4D62-9E8C-6ACCA537606A-2108-000008DA63851C20_zps1d106178.jpg

It needed to screw and clamp onto a 16mm threaded rod, so this became my first attempt at cutting internal thread with the lathe.
Step 1: learn/remember that when cutting metric threads (on my lathe) you mustn't disengage the half-nuts. That took a bit to remember...
Step 2: realize you have no tools for cutting internal threads, so you'll have to build one (from suggestions found online)
Step 3: with great trepidation, actually cut the threads:
5256B900-1AED-447E-AB13-E7F4299BCEA7-2108-000008DA5BEE30AC_zps7b375d3d.jpg

Step 4: sit back and marvel at how spending hours and hours making something that can be bought for $6 somehow feels like a win...
B73F939E-20AB-4D26-9846-7271AC44EB61-2108-00000A01A3217AF7_zpsafd3527b.jpg

6C6AB620-8257-4D62-9E8C-6ACCA537606A-2108-000008DA63851C20_zps1d106178.jpg 5256B900-1AED-447E-AB13-E7F4299BCEA7-2108-000008DA5BEE30AC_zps7b375d3d.jpg B73F939E-20AB-4D26-9846-7271AC44EB61-2108-00000A01A3217AF7_zpsafd3527b.jpg
 
I like your mounting jigs for your dial indicators, very nice!



The problem; The gooseneck lite on my lathe was at the tailstock end of the carriage and when I used my milling attachment the actual mill cut was in shadow because the lite was too far back to reach it. I made an angle iron bracket to mount the lite at the headstock end using the existing holes that were formerly used to mount the lite and the xslide retainer. While I was at it I included a mount for a dial indicator and a sliding stop that allows me to zero the DI anywhere along the xslide travel. I also put some extra holes in the angle iron mount for future gizmos like a mount for my cutting oil container or maybe a rack for drill chuck keys and allen wrenches.
Ed P
 
Step 4: sit back and marvel at how spending hours and hours making something that can be bought for $6 somehow feels like a win...

Nobody blamed you for the unemployment? :lmao:
But I know your sensation: it smells of freedom from "box movers"!
 
Here's a video I made today of a plumb bob I posted here before.

[video=youtube_share;uGeKI1J5oq8]http://youtu.be/uGeKI1J5oq8[/video]
 
I've been trying to do my first gun engraving job and I've been having a lot of trouble with my points breaking on my gravers, I've tried every type of graver I have. So I talked to a friend of mine that is a Master Engraver, does extraordinary work, anyway I told him about the issue & he turned me on to a company "Centennial Carbide", he told me the carbide is a different grade and seems to be a lot tougher than the carbide we get from GRS, GRS sells a "C-Max" carbide but it's $17.90 per each 2" piece, Centennial sells there carbide in one foot pieces, they didn't have 3/32" squares, I bought 1/8" pieces, cut them into 3" pieces, came out to $2.41 each. The only problem is they wouldn't fit in my holders, So now we're going to talk about the Project of the day, I had to build a holder, and I used my rebuilt Logan 1920-1 for it. I also used some cold bluing so it would look all sexy & everything :rofl:, Here's some pictures, Oh the O-ring on the new one was too big, so took one off the smaller one until I can get to the store for more.

3168c00f-856e-4d3b-a5e4-501960645782_zpsea67fd23.jpg

1b0c50d2-d9bc-4a20-ae15-d2f97186fe93_zps0ddd185c.jpg

55aa7c2c-1da3-4f6b-b550-c931b24d46a4_zps2289e7e3.jpg

This is a Video
th_Lathevideo_zps433eda9e.jpg


The video is not that long, and I could've started with a lot smaller piece to begin with, I was just playing with the lathe mostly getting use to everything. I got the ER40 collet chuck from Tallgrass Tools, Jan is a great guy to work with, anyway got a set of the collets off of ebay, They make it a lot easier for quick set ups.
 
Last edited:
  • mr schor,
    the idea of doing what ever you need to do to get the final results are a great lesson.
    no magic, just an idea and good common sense. . . great video. not my kind of music but hey, im old.
    thanks for sharing.
 
Needed a welding flange to mount the SU carburetor to the intake runners on my stroker VW build. Used the mill, the rotary table, and the lathe to machine 5/16" 1018 into a flange that mates perfectly with the carb and the intake runner tube. The tube will be welded into the bore of the steel flange, resulting in a perfect match to the inside diameter of the carb's venturi. Takes a lot longer to machine steel on a HF minimill and 7x14 than it does for aluminum or brass, but it was fun and I learned a lot.
Carb To Intake flange.jpg

Tom

Carb To Intake flange.jpg
 
Back
Top