2014 POTD Thread Archive

As long as it sticks. If it comes out, you can also put a knurl on the crossbar to make it a bit bigger.

That's what I was thinking... as long as it sticks. If it does come out, I think I'll clean the solder out of it, then thread a set screw in the end as one of the other guys did earlier. Or braze it. Probably go with the set screw though.
 
Ol-Buzzard,

Looks good to me. My handle ell out of my chuck key and I just left it that way so It can be used as a tommy bar to remove the chuck.

You sure are right about being cold. News says we are at -18F with wind chill around -44F.
 
Started some machinist clamps. 1/2 square jaws. 10 degree bevel. 3.5 in long stock. *Yes, I got to use the stop on the bandsaw that I made a thumb screw for. No more allen wrenches to set it!!*

I am still deciding the size of screw to make for the clamps. I will either go M6 or 10-32 for the screws. It doesn't really matter if they are metric or SAE as they will not interchange with anything else. I might dig into my HF assortment of E-clips to fix the one screw like Starrett does with theirs.

IMG_0299.JPG

IMG_0299.JPG
 
Friggin hilarious....! You aint kidding. My theory is geniuses think alike. Hehe. I just cobbled this up over the weekend to bore to a precise depth
ybyzany2.jpgnere7ugy.jpg
adyma9ym.jpg

ybyzany2.jpg

nere7ugy.jpg

adyma9ym.jpg
 
ooh, that's spooky. Remember the golden rule though guys, the more magnets it has the cooler it is :)
 
Turned these two adjustable rod end weldments to modify two Pietenpol cabane strut tensioners. Turned from 1.125 CRS. They're only under a tension load, never compression. The plane's builder wants to fish-mouth the tube before welding. Comments?

cabane_zpsf86d74df.jpg

cabane_zpsf86d74df.jpg
 
Back
Top