2014 POTD Thread Archive

So there is not a lot of machining here but this is what I did today.

Firstly, this is a spent powder casing from a five inch projectile the we shot here on my ship.
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One of the guys here is going to reenlist this week, so I made him a small gift.
The first step here is parting off the part of the shell I'm not going to use. There is a live center in the tailstock.
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The live center is against the cylinder inside the casing. With the parting finished, the edge is beveled. The casing and jaws are then turned around so that the small cylinder is mounted in the jaws. Here the bottom outer edge of the casing is smoothed out with some sandpaper and emery cloth.
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Now Never Dull is used to polish the outside of the powder casing. I also have to take off the small cylinder now. I do this by placing it in a vise and unscrewing it. I could part this off, but it is a little safer and more time efficient to just unscrew it. You can see how these three parts go together below.
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Now I screw the bottom piece back in, turns the jaws back around and face the face inside. And then more Never Dull.
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Now I'll make a metal plaque for it on the laser engraver and then hand shine any fingerprints off, and viola!
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These make great gifts for people. I will also press coins into the center instead of placing the bottom piece back in. I just bore the diameter how much of the coin I want seen through the bottom, and make a shoulder to the depth of the coin. I'll post a picture the next time I do that. Total time, about three hours.

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Really nice - love to see a project like this completed in style !!!
Excellent stuff
Keep 'em rolling
aRM
 
Jaws locked....18" clamp from Germany

tried to release jaws with crowbar

jaw will slip all the way down, if screw is all way out, locks up

cut off shinny round foot, jaw slides apart

tig a small knub stops jaw from going all the way down

been locked for a year or so

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locked.JPG

Charl


working.JPG locked.JPG
 
The live center is against the cylinder inside the casing. With the parting finished, the edge is beveled. The casing and jaws are then turned around so that the small cylinder is mounted in the jaws. Here the bottom outer edge of the casing is smoothed out with some sandpaper and emery cloth.


Very nice work man! Is there an easy way to bevel the edge of the cylinder?
How did you do it?

Thanks for sharing this

Petros
 
PetCNC,

I used a carbide turning tool and simply set the tool post to the correct angle that I wanted. It gets sort of dicey trying to get a nice clean cut with no chatter with so much of the cutter side taking a cut at one time.

I want to mention this as well, I saw someone attach a short bar to the nut on top of their tool post awhile ago on here. I too did that and it works amazing if you have to change your tool post position a lot. Thank you for posting that whoever it was ;)


SuKi
 
As always my wife provides a list of goodies she would like for Christmas and as always I feel the need to get her something unexpected. She retired earlier this year and has been getting into crafting, so I figured a nicely loaded gift card from Michaels would help but a gift card is kinda lame. I thought perhaps I could spiff it up a bit. Some years ago a friend gave me a few small pieces of cocobolo wood and they really weren't big enough to do much with but too beautiful to throw away. I decided to make a little holder for her gift card, so no machining other than drilling some holes.

3 x 4", 4-40 brass screws and yes I tapped the threads in the wood. :) I found a video on YouTube on flame polishing the edges of acrylic plastic, they suggested a hydrogen/oxygen torch but as I only had a propane torch.. it worked out OK. I need to pick up the card but it should provide a nice presentation for her.

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Between a few Christmas things (humbug) I stole some time today to grind a cutter of the metric 30 deg acme thread form on the compound shaft. This evening I got it cut, even at 100 rpm its not easy to get the carnage stopped at 5 tpi. Managed one slight crash into the shoulder. Wish I knew what this material was, gives a respectable finish and seams quite hard.

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Still need to cut a 1 mm thread on the other end to lock the thrust bearings and cut a small keyway for the handle but we should soon have the old girl back in good health.

Greg

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Saturday my son pulled the turbo inlet horn off of his LB7 and I helped him bore it out on the mill.

Here it is clamped on the mill table, we then tilted the head of the mill 49 degrees to match the angle of the face.
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My son measuring his progress.
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Here it is after a kiss with an emery roll and a 3M Scotchbrite pad to blend the end of the boring with the inside walls of the inlet horn. Completed and ready to re-install.
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While he had the top of the engine torn apart he decided to machine a resonator plug on the lathe. I had to snap a picture of him using the new lathe. He hasn't had much time on the new machines due to school and work but Saturday was a good day for him to get some machining time.
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All in all a great Saturday spend with my son in the shop. They don't get much better than that.

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w7d5cy.jpg

w7d5cy.jpg

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33o32tv.jpg

33o32tv.jpg

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33k9o29.jpg

baikz.jpg

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Jaws locked....18" clamp from Germany

tried to release jaws with crowbar

jaw will slip all the way down, if screw is all way out, locks up

cut off shinny round foot, jaw slides apart

tig a small knub stops jaw from going all the way down

been locked for a year or so

View attachment 90326

View attachment 90327

Charl

Ya, you have to not leave the screw threaded all the way out on that style of bar clamp or do like you did and weld a small nub so they can't slide all the way down.

I have to ask though, why are you sitting that on a nice painted truck lid of your car. Seems like an easy way to scratch the paint.
 
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