1440's type - informational thread -Post Yours here

Yes, that looks reasonable. My 1760 uses ISO 68 as one oil to rule them all. If a manufacturer specs ISO 32 for the headstock, it's probably because of the bearings and clearances they used. Victor (TW) makes an honest product, I expect Victor lathes to have a lube schedule data plate on them. I'm pretty sure someone here has a Victor 1440 lathe as their primary home shop workhorse. I'm not sure if you're talking about the new Victor lathes that look like PM clones, or the cool older Victors that look like rugged Takisawa derivatives. I'm sure you can find a manual or lube schedule for one of the major clones out there.
 
Yes, that looks reasonable. My 1760 uses ISO 68 as one oil to rule them all. If a manufacturer specs ISO 32 for the headstock, it's probably because of the bearings and clearances they used. Victor (TW) makes an honest product, I expect Victor lathes to have a lube schedule data plate on them. I'm pretty sure someone here has a Victor 1440 lathe as their primary home shop workhorse. I'm not sure if you're talking about the new Victor lathes that look like PM clones, or the cool older Victors that look like rugged Takisawa derivatives. I'm sure you can find a manual or lube schedule for one of the major clones out there.
it is a 1988 Taiwan clone from what I can gather. No lube spec's that I can find on the machines but so-far, all 1340 and 1440 sized machines have been fairly consistent with the 32/68 numbers.
 

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Hey, nice lathe! The t-slots on the back of the cross-slide are a fantastic feature. The foot brake is nice, too. If you spend time with Chinese machines, it's easy to see the quality difference is huge between there and Taiwan. Have you contacted the manufacturer with your serial and tried asking for a copy of the manual? Sometimes that does the trick, even on older stuff.
 
Hey, nice lathe! The t-slots on the back of the cross-slide are a fantastic feature. The foot brake is nice, too. If you spend time with Chinese machines, it's easy to see the quality difference is huge between there and Taiwan. Have you contacted the manufacturer with your serial and tried asking for a copy of the manual? Sometimes that does the trick, even on older stuff.
I'm not even sure who the MFG is. The tags/stickers on the machine don't have a MFG - only country, model, serial number... I'm really looking forward to getting it going too - excited to learn about and come up with some new projects. I'll be running on a VFD as I only have 1ph 220v - so have that to work through before it fires up. Should be able to sort out the wiring - have the same set up for my mill and belt grinder (3ph motor, variable speed). Attached is the most useful tag on the thing...
 

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Crazy how the maker's name and address isn't even there. It's fully anonymized!

It's definitely a Victor 1340GHE:

and manuals are available for a fee. I hate paying $70 for a manual, but I've sprung for Ozark manual reprints for my big mill and big lathe. You only cry once.

It could also be a Royal 1340GHE.

Found this thread on my quick search:
 
Crazy how the maker's name and address isn't even there. It's fully anonymized!


and manuals are available for a fee. I hate paying $70 for a manual, but I've sprung for Ozark manual reprints for my big mill and big lathe. You only cry once.
Very true and I will probably cough up the bux in the long run. Came across these links myself in my initial search and found a few that are "close" but I don't want to gamble much more if I have to dig any deeper into this thing to get it running. Your information has definitely helped in supporting some assumptions I had. I think I've got the Lube sorted out right now. And the electrics will be more or less scrapped or at least partially overridden/redone with the VFD anyway.
 
@Assiniboine_Iron Hello from Alberta... If you are using an unheated garage, or low temp in winter (4 degrees C, for example) use the lighter ISO32 oil. ISO68 gets pretty slushy after 10 degrees and lower...

They have exactly the same lubricity - I have checked with several 'oil consultants' at Shell and Exxon.

I use Tonna 68 way oil both winter and summer.
 
Thank you both Dabbler and Pontiac. I used 32 in the Head and 68 in the gear box, my shop is kept at a "useable" temp in the winter, however if I notice the gearbox slushing up I'll change it to the 32 as well.

Thanks! now to figure out the wiring!
 
Please, How do you move these lathes in your shops?

John
 
@Damn Yankee I have various methods.

On my 12X37 lathe I built the stand from scratch, and built in a boss on each side of the headstock to screw in a 1" NF bolt that I could run a 5" phenolic wheels into. the wheel location was about mid headstock, so lifting the tailstock end by hand, meant I could move the 8050 lb 1050 lb package easily, like using a wheelbarrow. Sorry for the mistype -- I didn't catch it on the proofread!

For moving my bigger lathes, I use removable wheels as designed by oxtool on youtube.. On the tailstock end of these 2000 lb and 3800 lb lathes I used 900 lb rotating casters made the same way. I'm an old guy with a bad back, but I can move my 3800 lb lathe by myself with ease.
 
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