Upgrade - Shop Air - Quality 60-80gal compressors?

Running compressor pump (5-10Hp) with low hours or new, probably run you around $1500, tank around $700, single phase motor $500, electrical, plumbing, guard, you are well past what a new one would cost. The pressure lubed compressor series in the Quincy, Curtis and other industrial lines are made for continuous use for years, but way overkill unless you can pick one up in good condition and do not have to start rebuilding it.
Example of a Quincy 350 Compressor is a good compressor, very low hours, might get lucky with a low sale price. These days I just want something I can hookup and runs, and I do not need to think about it for many years.
 
Running compressor pump (5-10Hp) with low hours or new, probably run you around $1500, tank around $700, single phase motor $500, electrical, plumbing, guard, you are well past what a new one would cost. The pressure lubed compressor series in the Quincy, Curtis and other industrial lines are made for continuous use for years, but way overkill unless you can pick one up in good condition and do not have to start rebuilding it.
Example of a Quincy 350 Compressor is a good compressor, very low hours, might get lucky with a low sale price. These days I just want something I can hookup and runs, and I do not need to think about it for many years.
Excellent you just put a parts list together for the perfect home shop air system. It will allow the shop to grow and out perform any of the throw away home shop compressors and the price is not that far 2k I saw on one of the better compressors I saw at my local RKO or Lowe's, Home Depot.
 
Example of a Quincy 350 Compressor is a good compressor, very low hours, might get lucky with a low sale price. These days I just want something I can hookup and runs, and I do not need to think about it for many years.

Are you going to trust the maintenance has been done and the tank is not a few pressure cycles from the "great bang"? Are you going to take apart the compressor to inspect the inside? Get it inspected professionally and re-certified?

As I said before - the damage and heartache caused by a compressor explosion would out-weigh the investment cost. What explodes is the tank. The rest of the components - yea I can see rebuilding and replacing. A failed motor isn't going to kill someone standing near the compressor. The cost of getting a certified replacement tank, though, is pretty pricey, comparatively.
 
How are you going to have this compressor explosion? The key to compressor safety is the pressure relief valve. Your operator's manual tells you to test it at regular intervals. Part of the maintenance on ANY compressor is the testing of the pressure relief valve. They are spring loaded and have what looks like a key ring on the spool, pull this everytime you want to check the relief valve operation.
be careful air should come out at whatever pressure level is in the receiver (tank).
tanks have condensation that can rust the inside of the tank. When rusted tanks fail they start to leak. There are access ports on the tanks designed for inspection. You will hear a different sound when Striking the suspected area with a hammer but if your really suspect pay for a new tank or have yours tested.
In industry we try to drain our tanks at least once a day so most industrial tanks will be usable.
a compressor rebuild kit for the QR series of Quincy compressors is about 350 dollars.
rebuilding your own compressor pump is like rebuilding a small machine tool...it actually is a small machine tool and a great way to improve your mechanical skills as well as your machining skills. You will know how your system works it will not be a mystery which means you will be able to fix it should it break down.
 
How are you going to have this compressor explosion? The key to compressor safety is the pressure relief valve.

The pressure relief valve has no bearing on the tank structure rupturing due to corrosion. The tank structure can rupture at well under the rating of the pressure relief valve if it has corroded enough. So again - your pressure relief valve is irrelevant in that case.

All a pressure relief valve is going to protect against, given it is functional, is over-pressure. If the pressure switch fails and the compressor runs past its' cut-off point then your pressure relief valve is going to be the saving device.

If the compressor cuts off at 175psi and the pressure relief valve is 190-200psi, yet the tank ruptures at 120psi, what is the safety device?

So again - I wouldn't trust a used system (specifically the tank = pressure vessel) without documentation, proper inspections, and having the ability to physically inspect myself.

Here is some insight for compressor explosions:


 
The pressure relief valve has no bearing on the tank structure rupturing due to corrosion. The tank structure can rupture at well under the rating of the pressure relief valve if it has corroded enough. So again - your pressure relief valve is irrelevant in that case.

All a pressure relief valve is going to protect against, given it is functional, is over-pressure. If the pressure switch fails and the compressor runs past its' cut-off point then your pressure relief valve is going to be the saving device.

If the compressor cuts off at 175psi and the pressure relief valve is 190-200psi, yet the tank ruptures at 120psi, what is the safety device?

So again - I wouldn't trust a used system (specifically the tank = pressure vessel) without documentation, proper inspections, and having the ability to physically inspect myself.

Here is some insight for compressor explosions:


Damn that's scary! These are small economy compressors and the tank quality does not compare with a larger certified tank.
If you are skeptical of the tank replace it or have it tested.
If you look at industrial horizontal tanks the seam is not on the bottom
 
I think it is all moot, my point is you do not need an industrial grade pump that is going to be used for continuous use for 10-20 or more years, and I agree you take it on face value the condition of what is sold used, that being said the Quincy and Curtis industrial compressors can last many decades before needing rebuilding. You can check the serial number/date codes to see how old they are if you want to go down that rabbit hole. It is no different then buying other used equipment. Tanks are another matter, not worth the nominal cost to buy something new, even if it is inspected. Cheaper tanks use thinner metal and the quality of the welds may not be as good. I just do not see the practicality to the exercise of building your own if you can purchase a new compressor with a service life of 40,000+ hours, champion states theirs as 100,000+ but depends on the model. I can see going to an industrial version if you were in a production shop, but for hobbyist use you are talking many decades of use, I for one will not be around when mine goes out to pasture.

As I mentioned the 5Hp Champion Compressor is probably the sweet spot, if you need more air than the V4 7.5 Hp. I had a long discussion with Pacific Air when I bought mine, he said the V4 was their most popular model and it was very quiet due to the low pump speed, which also equates to service life and increased cooling. You can call them and check on the motor amperage and breaker requirements, I thing it will exceed what you have. Quincy also has their QT-5 Max series worth looking at, I find them to be a bit noisier (higher pitch) than the champion pumps which are more of a lower register. They all will deliver no matter which brand you get, the performance is only limited by the Hp so they will all deliver the same amount of air for reciprocating compressors.
 
We built many over the years and was never satisfied as there was always something missing.

Last build was a 4 cyl pump, 5 hp motor and it made plenty of cfm but single stage it cycled below our operating pressure.

Bit the bullet and bought a real unit, DONE!

unless you want to do compressor as hobby, save up and buy a good one once.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Interesting observation here:

Kobalt 60gal, 2 stage, 3.7hp compressor from Lowes = 255lbs

Comparable Saylor-Beall 60gal, 2 stage, 3hp compressor = 565lbs (VT-730-60 model)

That is 310lbs MORE for the Saylor-Beall than the Kobalt. WOW! Where is that weight gain? I'd like to think the bulk of that is in the tank.

The Champion R series (comparable model is the VR3F-6) is 425lbs - a 170lb increase over the Kobalt.

Yeah, some of that will be the motor and compressor pump - but a heavier tank, for sure. Something to be said there.
 
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