Upgrade - Shop Air - Quality 60-80gal compressors?

I do not think you will find a compressor that has all US parts, just about everything these days is sourced from different countries, made in US does not assure one of quality. Compressors in the 2-3K price range are built on pretty much the same pump designs that have been used for decades. So the parts may be outsourced, but the should meet the same spec's, the pumps are typically rated for a minimum of 20,000+ hours, so it comes down to the pump speed/CFM, noise, and additional features. Probably more a matter of preference whether you go with a Curtis, Quincy, Saylor Beall or Champion. Price wise the Champion's tend to be a bit less expensive for a similarly equipped model. In the Champion line-up their "RV" line is a less expensive line vs. "R" series, the latter is more industrial and may last a bit longer in a continuous use mode. I have the "R" series, it was quite a bit less when I purchased it, it works fine. I also had the industrial Curtis CT-5 5Hp and it was also built to last. I put so few hours on my compressors, that it is pretty much a non-issue of their longevity. If you can swing the extra cost, as I mentioned the after cooler and automatic drain are well worth additions at a nominal additional cost in the packages. Typically the entry level 5 Hp models by these manufactures will use higher speed (Asian) pumps and motors, so more noise, and they seem to have more reliability complaints. I have a Marathon motor on my compressor, seems they have moved away from Baldor, they also use WEG industrial motors. Almost all these are now made in Mexico or Brazil, the cheaper ones are typically Chinese.

On the issue of supply current and breakers, you want to use the minimum specified gauge wire outlined by the manufacturer, typically #8 for 5 Hp and #6 for 7.5 Hp 230VAC single phase. Minimum breaker size is 1.25 x FLA. So at least 30A for 5 Hp and 40A or 50A for 7.5 Hp depending on the motor FLA. In addition a breaker at a specific trip amperage is not to designed to provide that amperage continuously, it is designed to deliver 80% of it's rating on a continuous bases. So a 40A breaker can supply 32A continuously. On a compressor that cycles on and off, you may not hit the thermal overload limits of a breaker, but depends on/off duration over time.

This is a breakdown of the Champion models:
Full package includes After Cooler, Automatic Drain, Low Oil Shutoff, and additional add on's based on the seller. Compressors most be hard mounted with isolation feet. Warranty varies by series and package. Stripped down packages are approximately $600-700 less, but as noted may not have mag starters and motors on the RV series may be 3600 RPM. I purchased my Champion Compressor from Pacific Air, there may be some wiggle room in pricing. I got the runaround from some of the other dealers, had the check valve to the tank fail due to rust, and they replaced it under warranty. I am surprised that they no longer list the "R" series on their website, but could probably order one.

VRV "RV" Series
Champion 5 HP 2 Stage 1 Phase Air Compressor VRV5-8 Full Package, 17.3 CFM, 734 RPM Pump (21A, 1750 RPM motor) ~$2700 shipped
www.pacificaircompressors.com

Champion 5 HP 2 Stage 1 Phase Air Compressor VRV5-8 Full Package USA Made!

Reciprocating Air Compressor 5 HP, Two Stage, Single Phase Air Cooled After Cooler Automatic Tank Drain Mounted Magnetic Motor Starter Installation kit: 4 each 4×4 mounting pads and 1 each 4&#…
www.pacificaircompressors.com

Champion 7.5 HP TWO STAGE CAST IRON V-4 CYLINDER AIR COMPRESSOR, 25.8 CFM, 575 RPM Pump (FLA 31A,1750 RPM motor) ~$3400 shipped
www.pacificaircompressors.com

7.5 HP TWO STAGE CAST IRON V-4 CYLINDER AIR COMPRESSOR 25 CFM, 575 RPM

CHAMPION AIR COMPRESSOR 7.5 HP, SINGLE PHASE, 230 VOLT 80 GALLON VERTICAL TANK WITH AIR COOLED AFTER COOLER AND AUTO TANK DRAIN If you are looking for the BEST 7.5 hp two stage single phase compres…
www.pacificaircompressors.com

VR/HR "R" series, Advantage series are the fully packaged.
VR5-8 Champion 5 HP 80 Gallon Vertical Advantage Series Air Compressor Fully Packaged 17.3 CFM, 710 RPM Pump (21-23A, 1750 RPM motor) ~$3200 Shipped

Champion VR5-8 | 5 HP 80 Gallon Vertical Air Compressor

Save on installation costs with the Champion VR5-8 vertical air compressor. It features a control panel with a starter that is already mounted and wired.
www.industrialaircompressors.biz

VR7F-8 Champion 7.5 HP 80 Gallon Vertical Advantage Series Air Compressor Fully Packaged 28.7 CFM, 990 RPM Pump (FLA 40A,1750 RPM motor) ~$3400 shipped

7.5 HP 80 Gallon Air Compressor | Champion VR7F-8

Reduce in-tank rust with the Champion VR7F-8 air compressor. This 7.5 HP, 80-gallon unit features a timed tank drain for automatic condensate removal.
www.industrialaircompressors.biz
 

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mksj said:
I do not think you will find a compressor that has all US parts, just about everything these days is sourced from different countries, made in US does not assure one of quality. Compressors in the 2-3K price range are built on pretty much the same pump designs that have been used for decades.
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Thanks for the details. I won't quote everything as its a long email. The parts being sourced elsewhere I would think is hard to get around. There are so many controls, electrical parts, enclosures, etc that can be over-seas supply its hard to tell. As to the main parts and machining/casting though (pumps) - I would think that would be pretty easy to nail down.

I found a video of a 5hp Saylor Beall starting and running. Even on the video I could tell it was quite quiet, relatively speaking. That was good to see/hear. One of my concerns has been sound - the compressor I have now is irritating. As far as the overall noise and ticking off the neighborhood go - it isn't just the duration I run tools (impacts, cut off wheel, die grinder) that is obnoxious its the compressor going also. I don't have an audio level (dB) to compare to, but a significant reduction with a slower speed compressor (pump + motor) would be very welcomed, for sure!

I checked the breaker box and I do have an unused 40a circuit. So if the 30a doesn't suffice I have another breaker to try. But that is down the road a ways. I have ideas on getting a larger supply cable. Worst case, I can run a new cable and borrow the spot for either the current 30a or 40a circuit for what ever I need. The 30a is what I use now - if I were to run a new cable it probably would entirely replace the 30a (that cable and outlet would be unterminated and taped up at the box for reconnecting down the road if need-be). The current 40a that isn't used could also be pulled and taped up, so either way I have options there. What I don't want to do is add a new 2-pole/240 breaker (new position on top of what is there) as that would mean shifting a whole row of breakers down = not enough wire going to the box to pull slack in them.

If the power draw was lower on the 7.5hp's that would be a bit more enticing to get the higher CFM, but since it is what it is there wouldn't be any wiggle-room on circuits so from the get-go I'd be doing the wiring also. 5hp sounds like the sweet spot - it could pop the circuit breaker on extended runs, but we'll see what happens there - just like the big welder - it runs fine.
 
I think if I were going to buy a compressor now I would do what I did 25 years ago and that was to build it.
The Quincy QR series of compressor pumps are expensive but there has been no decrease in performance over the 25 years.
I installed the factory optional dual control valve so I can choose on off cycling or continuous. During continuous mode the intake valves are unloaded (heald open).
I chose the pump I rebuilt, the rebuild kit was expensive 170.00 dollars as I recall.
The pump was 1400.00 dollars new back in the early 90's I see them at about 2500.00 now, of course I found a broken compressor and just snagged the pump so I had almost nothing invested.
In continuous mode the valves unload at 125 and load at 110 with two 4 inch diameter pistons it fills my undersize 80 gal tank in approximately 2 minutes.
The single phase 5 HP motor is also industrial with 26 FLA at 220 Vac.
Point of this is there are alot of old industrial compressors out there and with a rebuild the new units cant compare to these old american made iron units.
 
Price gone up in 10 years.

Ours was about 1900, 7.5 hp, mag starter, after cooler and auto tank drain.

Looks like over 3 grand now.

Still, buy once if you can.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
sdelivery said:
Point of this is there are alot of old industrial compressors out there and with a rebuild the new units cant compare to these old american made iron units.
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That is an interesting point.

What scares me, though, is the tanks. That is why I am looking hard at new ones. Part of my logic is the damage and heartache (not to mention if someone had a catestrophic injury over it) caused by a compressor explosion would far out-weigh the investment cost of a nice compressor. Also when new I can start with a fresh slate on the maintenance and upkeep.
 
I bought a new tank because I didn't want the CONTAMINATED found in old tanks as I was looking to paint BUT I am not worried about a compressor explosion due to a failed tank at 125 psi. I would definitely worry about a boiler explosion over that range. If your compressor draws in any semi flammable vapor it could be an issue.
A relief valve sized on flow and then pressure is the key to compressor safety.
Using to small of relief valve will diminish its
ability to relieve pressure quickly enough.
Almost every shop I service has at least one dead compressor they would be willing to part with. Avoid the new underrated compressors, most are rated on the scfm they draw in when producing atmospheric pressure (0) and NOT output scfm.
Industry does not use this method for rating.
This is how I can sandblast with my compressor without the tank.
 
FlyFishn said:
What scares me, though, is the tanks
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I bought and old Curtis circa 1950's off of craigs list. Rebuilt the compressor with available rebuild kit, replaced the motor and tank. works great.
 
Boswell said:
I bought and old Curtis circa 1950's off of craigs list. Rebuilt the compressor with available rebuild kit, replaced the motor and tank. works great.
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What did you replace the tank with?
 
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