The South Bend heavy 9 Rebuild

Thanks Nelson - I have already contacted both of your recommemded sources - unfortunately no luck. Ted did give me the ebay guy but like you said not cheap. Thought I'd try a few of the forums first. One fellow from here has offeredto make one - we're working on the details.

thanks
Rick
 
The undermount drive I am using came with a Gates truflex 3430 belt. The problem I am having is that when I install the belt I lose almost all admuntment on the tension rod. The motor mpounting plate and cradle are so close together that the conical washers do not seat correctly. When I get them seated right - the belt willl not fit. It appears I either need a bigger belt (44 or 45") or have something assembled incorrectly. Any ideas? it seems 44 or 45" belts would be longer than I have ever heard used but being a heavy 9 it might be correct. Any thoughts on the belt length for a heavy 9 9OR HEAVY 10)? in the picture below the conical washers are correctly seated but I could never get the belt on.

Thanks
Rick

BeltTensionAdjustment.jpg

BeltTensionAdjustment.jpg

BeltTensionAdjustment.jpg
 
thanks Rick - and don't apologize for over simplification - that's the kind of discussion I like. After thinkimg about this i had pretty much came to the same conclusion. belt length is not critical - as long as the motor is not hitting the floor ;) and i don't run out of adjustment.
 
OK - i've moved on to the gearbox while I'm waiting for a few other things and as expected I have a few questions :). Right now I'm focused on the cone gear assembly.
1. The manual I'm using describes a taper pin in the retaining nut. Mine doesn't have a taper pin or a hole for one in either the nut or shaft. Has anyone ever seen this design?
2. When reassembling the gears - the last 4 (smallest) do not slide on - they need to be pressed on. That doesn't seem right - and while I can easily press them on outside the casting - I'm envinsioning a near impossible task inside the casting. Should all of these gears easily slide on?
3. The threads on the shaft are a bit damaged and i can't thread the nut on. Does anyone know the thread diameter and pitch for this shaft. I would like to try getting a tap die to clean the threads up.
Thanks
Rick
 
thanks Rick - any thoughts on the other questions?

Rick
 
Jim - regarding the tight fit - i'm not sure if the fit issue is shaft, key or both yet. I'm still trying to work that out. I got them disassembled by pressing the shaft out but I'm thinking they should assemble without the help of a press.

Rick - I have the assembly disassembled and there is no hole in either the nut or shaft for a taper pin. I found out from a few other guys with the same vintage machines that they did not have a taper pin either. the general consenus was to drill and tap the nut for a set screw.
BTW - I didn't mention that the nut is pretty dinged up - almost like someone tried using a small punch to tighten it up - it was loose when i took it apart. I think this supports the need for some means to lock the nut in place.
 
OK - problems resolved. I fixed the gear/shaft fit by using an ossicillating spindle sander to tune the ID of the tight gears. All gears now slide on easily. Regarding the missing taper pin in the locknut - this is apparently a design feature experienced by some others as well. I took the advice given and drilled/tapped the nut for a set screw. This locked the nut in place nicely. Finally the damaged threads on the cone shaft. I got a 5/8-18 die and planned on trying to clean them up. Unfortunately the root diameter of the die is smaller than the unthreaded shaft section so I couldn't get the die over the unthreaded section to reach the threaded section. So I used a standard hex nut I had to clean them up. The nut doesn't "spin " on but it will be workable.

Now onto the next set of challenges - the clutch gears. I've got two issues.
1. The pinion gear has a dowel pinion through it which rides in a groove in the shaft. Of course my dowel pin is missing - the hole and groove are present and accounted for - just no pin. So does anybody happen to know the dimemsions of this pin or have one laying around they would be willing to sell?

2. The manual I am using describes two set screws in the ends of the shaft. These apparently seal the oil pathway. I don't see any set screws. I do find a hole drilled halfway through the shaft which I think are oilers but how would you get to the horizontal pathway to clean it?

Thanks for any ideas
Rick


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Ah - thanls Jim. I'd forgotten that little tid bit

Rick
 
well for once something went right - i discovered i had a bunch of 1/8 brass rod from a project a few years ago so i was able to fabricate the brass plug for use under the set screw. thanks again to Jim for the reminder.

Jim - i tried the 1/8 brass rod for fit in the keeper pin hole. it was a very tight fit so i'm going to try something a little smaller. i'm assuming brass is not a good material choice for this?
 
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